No sway bars on a strut based car!

 

At the time I was having issues with the rear diff and not enough droop with my coil-overs....I think those days might be over and it's time to go back to bars...

I am actually jealous that your mitsu's come with decent size bars from the factory..

 

Any EVO racers tried the Ralliart 29mm Tarmac Spec front sway bar?

 

had my first event with the new front lsd from TRE, and I like where my car is headed. I still have some suspension tuning to work out, but Im looking forward to the rest of the year. Definitely makes me think that the rear diff upgrade should be beneficial as well.

 

I've thought about it, but I'm in STU so it doesn't make very much sense to get that much roll resistance. Do you know what springrates ralliart suggests for that bar?

My understanding is that tarmac cars still have to go over rough road seams and occasional gravel/dirt sections. I would guess that they run fairly soft springs (by road racing standards) and use that bar to get roll resistance back to something reasonable.

d

EDIT: I've even heard about a 32mm ralliart bar, but I've never seen it in a catalog.

 

65-85 n/mm Front, 70-90 n/mm rear springs
26-29mm front bar, 24-27mm rear bar

 

Exactly. 85 n/mm = 485 lbs/inch = 8.5 kg/mm. That's pretty soft for race tires, don't you think?

d

 

Yep. But it would be very interesting to see just how well a WRC car, or even a Gr N car would do on an autocross course. Would it do well, or not at all???

I'll admit I don't know a whole lot about suspension theory. On cornering and transitions does it really matter where the effective spring rate come from, the shocks or the bar?

 

Bars effectiveness is also dependent on spring rates since it is scavenging roll stiffness from unsprung weight and the spring on the opposite side of the car.

 

I got some tax money Im thinking of spending. Not a whole lot, which is why it is an 'OR' question.

Would it be better to do wheels and tires, ie V700's on 18x9's

OR

Should I go for coilovers first???

I am just on stock stuff now except for the tires are 255 Falkens

Thanks for the info

 

You should consider that you'll burn through tires at a much quicker rate as long as you're running the stock suspension...

In addition, one of the fitment issues with big wheels and tires is making sure that everything clears the suspension, and that's generally much easier with an aftermarket suspension.

So my recommendation would be to put the money into the coilovers, assuming that you're heading that way anyway.

I hope that you realize that if your mod list in your sig is accurate, you're not legal in BSP or STU -- think Street Modified.

 

The radiator is the only thing that i see that is questionable for bsp. Am I missing something?


BTW, i'd do coilovers first as well.

 

Thanks for the help.

I had been running in SM but got to looking and to the best of my knowledge the only thing that I would have to change is the BOV back to stock. Or am I missing something else???

 

if you're talking about running STU there is more that needs to be done besides the BOV. Big ones are the clutch and MBC.

but for BSP the bov is legal, MBC is legal...pretty much everything is legal except the koyo radiator. Even then I believe it would have to be smaller/lighter then stock before you really have to worry.

 

I think the following applies for SP:
It's my understanding that the BOV (aka Compressor bypass valve) can only be UD/BD but not replaced with aftermarket. So an evo8 can run the evo9 BOV, but not greddy, tial, etc. The IC is legal as long as nothing was removed to facilitate installation. The radiator is not legal at this point, although there was a proposal out for comment on replacements larger than or equal to OEM.

The clutch is def the killer for STU.

John