Well I know from speaking with Mark that that was a big reason he ran stock pads on his RS w/out ABS.

Maybe I shouldn't have used "your" car in my "no ABS" generalization.

 

kekek,

went with your setup. saved about 180 bucks from what I thought I'd spend. I'll let you know how it works for me. thanks

 

I'm running the racing brake rt700 in the front and hp+ in the rear and haven't had any probs so far.

 

racing brake rotors and Carbotech Panther Plus pads...worked great for two seasons....come to think of i I should check my thicknesses...

 

Why? stick with non-slotted drilled rotors. always.

 

Why? Weight savings? Drilling doesn't really do anything for keeping brake temperatures down. Slotting is much better for that. Autocrossers usually use drilled rotors because they're trying to cut weight, but those rotors are definitely not appropriate for most other types of motorsports. You should see some of the swiss cheese rotors that people have at Nationals...

 

Why "always" drilled? Those are the weakest and prone to falling apart.

 

I have CarboTech's when they reboxed hawks and called them super street F's on my mr2 and had all the good with none of the bad. Rich(I think, hes kinda grouchy) at Carbotech will help you identify the right combo.

I now run Hawks on my other cars and have great results with them.

As far as rotors if you must have something special I would use slotted. Just dont like braking on cheese graters for a car that will be DD most of the time. I however save the money and get OEM brembos. I seat them in based on several docs on the net. Dont squeal, dont dust and stop good for a long time. Vents and slots used be the rage when pads gassed and literally hyrdoplaned on the rotors. Now adays with pad technology that problem has been elimintated. Just something for ya to chew on....

I am a little puzzled that you are able to cremate brakes in a single driver car. I have yet to campaign an EVO, is this something that will be in my future ? I barely would get the brakes hot in either the mr2, or wrx. The SS F's had a lower temp for effectiveness so they start gripping right aways...

 

not always. if the rotor is cast with the holes in place (like those rotors found on porches and what not) then they are just as strong as a non-drilled rotor.

When companies or individuals drill a solid rotor, that leads to the weakness that you are refering too.



anyhow, I run a slotted rotor with hawk HPS pads which are adiquate so far. I like the HPS pad because of the cold bite, but I wouldn't run them on a track day.

 

back from the dead,

Had two events over the weekend.
long story short, best braking ever!

zero fade, rotors slightly blued, minimal dust (not that that really matters)

the final machined surface on the "Centric" rotorpros rotors is phenomenal. Many finely etched swirls on the surface. Did the whole "many stops from 60" break-in on the new setup (Porterfield r4-s pads / slotted rotorpros). After completing the break-in I thought the swirls would be gone, but they were barely still there. In other words the slight grooves left in the rotor were actually a collection point for capturing pad material (good).

Drove this setup on the street for a couple months and those slightly grooved swirls were still there before this weekend's events. Didn't quite know what to expect. I thought by the end of the weekend the surface would be heavily grooved or that the machined surface would be polished smooth (glaze effect).

Neither happened. Rotor looks the same coming out of weekend as going in to it. And specifically on the sunday event there were 3 sections of maximum (abs) braking from the rev-limiter in 2nd (low 60's mph) gear down to mid to top of 1st gear. (all on fresh 275 Kumho V710's)

Of all events so far in the evo, this had to be the best (concerning brakes)

Got a 1st in PAX on sunday and was 1.1 seconds (raw) faster than any other car*. Most of the time myself and a buddy in an SM prepped evo rs battle for fastest time but only by a few tenths compared to the rest of the pack.

http://lvrscca.org/race-results/auto...ound04_raw.htm

http://lvrscca.org/race-results/auto...ound04_pax.htm

will post pictures of rotor wear if wanted.

*results link (f125=shifter cart)

 

Glad to hear you really like these.

 

John, which version of the RotorPros do you use? Slotted, drilled, blank, etc?

2manyAWDs, which ones did you get?

 

I run straight blanks. Some people say drilled can crack and slotted can wear pads faster. I'm happy with simple blanks. If you want lighter weight cut them to min thickness.

2manyAWD's stated "slotted" in his post above.


John

 

Got it, thanks.

 

dang it aaron sounded like it was a bunch of fun, Ill be at nellis
I was looking at the porterfields but ended up with the Ferodo's.
Might have to give em' a try after I kill these 2500's...