If I want to add a set of camber bolts to my front suspension, will they work for tracking the car? I.e. are they strong enough to hold up? If I have read various posts correctly, running two eccentric bolts up front should allow me to get more than -2 degrees of negative camber without having to get adjustable camber plates. The intended setup will be Bilstein HD/Swift Springs, 255 RA-1.

As shown in another thread (Ingalls 81260 or similar used):

l8r)

 

Ingalls doesn't recomend racing with the bolts

I think it will work if you don't use more than one per side.

Ingallls are marked 12.9, stock are 10.9 metric harness grade.

Ingalls specs 77ft-lb torque, stock is 123 ft-lb.

Ingalls is 63% of stock

Ingalls has a self locking nut, steel distorted thread, I don't think it will back off.

The friction created by the clamping action of the bolts will be stronger than the bolts themselves.

I would rather see a higher torque rating, but you don't want to yield the smaller dia bolt.

I would say a torque wrench is mandatory, and rechecked after a few miles would be a good idea. None of this half assed hit it with an impact and go will do.

I am not sure how good some of the camber plates are, they look like they could slip also.

I am also being told you don't need -3 or more for track use. For street use I think I may pull mine out.

Mine have not slipped, but I don't know if 50 miles of back road is a real check.

It seems like a reasonable risk if you tighten carefully.

Mitsuatb

 

/\/\/\ Torque them properly. You might look into nylock nuts rather than the distortion type as those are really not reusable while the nylocks are.

Id retorque after 50 miles or so of <ahem back road driving> . I have had regular bolts in slotted bottom strut mounts come loose after very well respected shop that serves SCCA racers, DID not toque them properly. Car came loose in a hard left whne they let go and almost kissed the guard rail. Fix was custom moon shaped spacers of the correct thickness to maintain -3 degree camber and lock the strut into place

kinda like this (( bolt )) when looking directly at the slot.

Milburn

 

Hi,

Not trying to be an A-hole, but if you reuse nylock, you could get yourself into to serious trouble on a critical fastener.

Nylock work once, be cause once you cut the threads through it, it poses no further resistance to the next threading event.

Distortion will continue to work time after time and even at high temps,

Even the instructions with my Bistein HD, said not to reuse the nylock.

My old 95 Z28 uses distorted threads every where, serious pain to take things apart, but they really hold.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

My 0.02 worth

Mitsuatb

 

If I wanted to use Whiteline camber bolts instead of the Ingalls, which size would I need to get (see image below)?



l8r)

 

14mm

 

^ Thanks!

l8r)

 

I bet those are SPC (http://www.specprod.com) camber bolts. Did you ever buy the Whiteline camber bolts? If yes, did you happen to look at the bolt faces? I bet they have the SPC logo on them.

If you bought camber bolts, did you install them in the upper or lower bolt hole? The stock camber bolts are in the upper hole, so I would have thought that these aftermarket camber bolts would go in their place.

 

FYI,

I have done this install, I even have the bolts if you think you want them.

Nice to be able to help you with some info after all of you work on the ECU's.

The reason you won't want to use the camber bolts in the stock upper position, is the factory oval hole.

The Ingals bolts are designed to use a round hole, you will loose most of your adjustment by putting them in the oversize factory oval hole (upper).

The Ingals bolts have a tabed washer that fits between the shank of the bolt and the side of the factory round strut hole. This gives the bolt a total effective dia of 14mm and allows the excentric to push the strut around by contacting the side of the round hole.

The shank on on the camber bolts is about 12mm vs 14mm OEM. So they are a little weaker. Big issue is the clamping force they can create, about 80% of the larger bolt due to limits on torque on the smaller bolt.

Mitsuatb

 

Thanks much for the info. Turns out that I have a spare set of SPC 81260 bolts in my garage. I was going to put them on the wife's car but never got around to it. I'm not necessarily looking for huge camber... just want easy adjustability for when I take the car in for new tires and another alignment in a few weeks.

 

Hello, I was wondering if the top hole in the strut of a Ralliart is also oval or not (so that I could use the Evo eccentric which I assume is two position) or if I should get an aftermarket eccentric/cam bolt. Thanks.

 

Whats wrong with using the stock essentric bolts? It gets you very close the -2 degrees that you are looking for!