Since I've moved to VA, I've decided to turn my Evo into a full-on race car (road race). It seems like I'll get a ticket if I ever boost my car, so I think I'll buy a beater to drive and tow my Evo to VIR and other racetracks.

The question is: What do I need to do to my car to make it run reliably, safely and effectively on the track?

Please don't post stupid stuff - I am trying to find out from experienced racers, builders, vendors, etc. to get an idea of what I need to spend and what parts I'll need to do it right. I am not going half-assed and I plan to try to lock up some sponsorship. I know I'll need a stronger clutch (probably twin- or triple-disk), probably a dog-engagement gearbox, new suspension and uprated brakes. What I am really unaware of are the special things that make the car durable and track-worthy. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also, if you are a shop that is interested in helping me out, let me know.

 

Wow!! You've decided to go all out now that you aren't in the HB anymore, eh? NICE! Ok, well here's some advice for you that will get you started. You already have enough engine mods currently to tide you over for a long while, so I wouldn't spend anymore $$$ on the power side of things for now. First and most importantly, IMO, go get a new set of wheels, and use the stock ones for racing only, then throw some R compound tires on the stock wheels. It's a ROYAL pain in the *** getting asphault and rubber off your wheels after a track day, not to mention wasting good race rubber on the street. Of course you could flip that and use the new wheels for track only and use the stockers on the street...it's your choice. Next up is a set of coilovers, I know the stock suspension is nice, but you want fast lap times, and a good handling car is MUCH faster than a powerfull one (depending on course layout of course). Deffinately look into a car control school/performance driving school as well, but this can kinda be accomplished by running with instructors at track days as well. Next is upgraded brakes or at least steel lines and race fluid as the brembo's are damn good. It all depends on how much money you want to spend bro, but I wouldn't stray too far from the path of 1-tires 2-coilovers 3-brakes. All of the other suspension mods like sway bars/links and what not come as you feel the car out and find what works with your driving style after you've installed coilovers. You've already got the strut bars, and lower arm brace that I'd suggest. There's my .02 from a "novice" racer, I've done 6 track days, but only one in the EVO so far.

 

You need to find out what the Japanese race teams use for oil coolers, radiators, intercoolers. Road racing is going to put some major heat on your engine. Other options like water injection and alcohol injection may help cool you down. I did see a front mount twin oil-cooler setup on an E55 this weekend...badass! And Z1 has a triple disk clutch instock...

 

What Ric says is spot on. work on the chassis first. People always neglect handling and braking. start with what he said, slicks, coilovers and brakes. if you want further development and control, go with adjustable sway bars, lower arm bars, roll cage to increase rigidity and stability. Everyone wants more power... and more power.... sounds like some testosterone thing. The evo can do great quater miles iam sure.. but trust me... this car is much more than a drag car. Eveyone is always looking to boost up, add more power... but where in these forums do you find a thread actually looking at reducing unsprung weight. Do the math, if you can lighten your car by 100kg, in effect you will be gaining horsepower. Since your car is going to be for the track, I recommend taking out the aircon, rear seats, all carpets and sound deadening material. You not onli pull faster, turn and brake better with less weight, you also put less stress on your car. After you have track tuned your chassis, i think you should look at cooling. Our engines run hot... think about getting an aftermarket oil cooler or at least and oil thermostat. I have it and it works very well on the track. my oil temp is lowered at least by 6-7 deg celcius. my 3 cents

 

Here are my suggestions to start off with (just my opinion):

I would first look into safety equipment first before I did anything else to the car. This includes getting the proper clothing including helmet, suit, gloves, shoes, etc. The next thing I would look into is getting a good supply of replacement (all high temp) brake fluid, pads, and rotors. I would also look into getting whatever I needed to keep the engine temps as low as possible (oil cooler, possibly a new radiator with thermostat, etc.)

Other than that I wouldn't really go into getting a new suspension or r compounds yet until you get a ton of driving events under your belt. The idea is to learn and understand the car's behavior the way it is stock and improving your skills as a driver to get the fastest lap times. After that you will be able to feel the differences in behavior when adding a new suspension or sticky tires. You will find by just having a welded cage in the car will change its handling completely. Also adding a race suspension is not as easy as slapping something on. You will go through a lot of time and money trying to figure out which combination of spring rates and shock settings to go through. It all depends on your driving technique and what you are comfortable with.

The last thing you need to do is to pick up a rule book (GCR) from either SCCA or NASA to find out the general rules and to find out which class you want to race in and/or which class will allow you to race in. This is most important because the rules and regulations will determine what you can or can’t do to the car. It will also list safety specs.

Also a good cage builder is hard to find. I used Mitch Piper from Piper Motorsports in VA to build my cage (raced prep 00 civic si). Even though the car is not an evo I can post pics of it to give you an idea of his work.

I think that’s about it. Other than that, remember to always have fun….

 

I ran my first autocross on lightweight wheels with R compound tires this past weekend, and it seemed to make a phenomenal difference in my performance.

I chose the Enkei RPF1 wheels with 245/40ZR17 Hoosier A3S03 (autoX compound) tires. The entire wheel/tire assembly weighs only about 35 pounds, a huge difference from the stock wheel/tire which weighs about 45 pounds. That's a 40 pound reduction in unsprung weight. A fellow autocrosser who helped me change tires at the event commented on how much lighter the race combo was compared to the street combo.

I don't have the final results, but I seemed to be running several seconds faster than some cars which I was previously neck-and-neck with on street tires.

So add my voice to those who say that good tires should be your first performance modification for competition. It would be fine to do some non-competitive driver education track days on the street tires, but even there, if you can afford the R compound tires, go for it.

One last testimonial to the racing tires: in another thread ( https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=31258 ), mav1c wrote:

 

D00d...don't let us scare you with our cop stories. Do what you want with your car, and take your lumps IF you ever really do get pulled over.

You will be using this car for track days, right? Those aren't competitive events. They are just instructional/ fun days at the track. People don't get sponsorships to do instructional lapping events.

You only get sponsorships if you will be doing some sort of sanctioned SCCA head to head racing....or if you will be competing in autocross at a high level.

Besides, if you are unaware of what it takes to make a race car, you don't have much racing experience, and if you don't have any winning experiences, no one will want to sponsor you.

Just bring it to the track and enjoy it...don't worry so much about sponsorships and race prep until you are well versed at driving at instructional events.


SC~

 

The Evo at Summit Point was white. It's my car and I do race a Porsche with SCCA. I am working on the Evo for SCCA's T2 class. The car will be eligible to roadrace in Jan., 2004.
Cheers,

 

Before you do anything to the car, look at different race series and get a hold of their rules. If you don't build the car to a set of rules, you will spend a pile of money and have nowhere to race. Also, if you have never raced, you are in for a shock, especially at the National level. Many of us have pro experience and the difference between a racer and even a talented driver who wants to go fast will surprise you.
Cheers,

 

First, I have plenty of experience, just never built my own car. I am used to running other people's pre-owned (hence, pre-built) cars or loaners. Second, if I do this, it will be for SCCA head-to-head at selected events. Third, I am planning on taking a LOT of high-level one-to-one driving instruction beforehand. Like I said in my original post, I am not going half-assed. If I don't get up and running until 2-3 years from now, that's ok. At least I will be prepared. As for sponsorship, I am talking local vendors, etc. I know I'm not Michael Schumacher or something. I just want to have fun, but not go totally broke on spare parts, tires, etc.

Last note: If I never win an event, but I end up feeling good, it's still worth it. I am not overestimating any talent I might have, believe me. If anything, I hope to learn from the rear, watching how the big boys do it.

 

You did say racing and not prison, right?

 

Glad to hear your going full race with her Chris. I have to agree with Ricardon that for track use its all about the handling mods first. I know your car is fast and improving the handling will probly give you a really well rounded car. Upgradeing the things that are going to take abuse such as mods for the brakes, oil temp, coolent, power steering fluid etc. might be a good option since you said you want it to remain reliable. Unless you have a $#!T load of money I wouldn't go with expensive new set of rims or Coilovers cause those mods are usually 1000+. Maybe upgrade the pads to fedoro and use steel brake lines since your brakes will definatly get hot after the first laps go by. Then maybe roll bars and rear strut+trunk baces. Then go with an upgraded oil cooler and some redline or motul or your own choice of race oil.

Just trying to help out

My 2 cents.

 

Now there's a true statement if I ever heard one! It's deffinately true that the best mod for any car actually sits behind the steering wheel. Individual track days are good for experience, but usually teach you how to be fast on a specific course, and not necessarily how to drive your car fast. The rule book advice is good for sure, if your'e talking about sanctioned events, but track day stuff usually only classifies cars by hp and tires (with some exceptions of course). Cooling is a wonderful idea, and worth several dollars of attention, but until you start messing with internals and larger turbos etc...I think the stock IC, and radiator setup is sufficient, maybe some silicone hoses and a thermostat/switch to increase efficiency. Chris, you've always been a proponent of doing mods little by little to get a good feel for what each mod does...DO NOT STRAY FROM THIS CONCEPT. You will understand and be more capable of driving your car at speed if you stick to this. Suspension is a mother load of a ***** to figure out, true, but I think it better to get started at figuring it out sooner than later. JMO.

 

Get your hands on a lot of money.
Get yourself a lawyer good with family law... Your wife might wanna divorce your ***.
A towing vehicle, a trailor, and invest in some tools.
Buy a service manual, hydraulic jacks and jack stands.
Learn how to replace your pads and bleed your fluid, and know how to do the basic maintanance and how to wrench on the side of pit lane.
And what other people have said.

 

Start with feet first method....
1) Tires s-compound
2) suspension to include bushings, sway bars
3) brakes/ rotor and no the stock 4-pot Brembo aren't good enough. probably wannna do away with your ABS system too
4) re-welding of weak point on the chasis, particularly around inside corners of fire wall and back corners of the rear doors...
5) shedding of All un-needed weight:
AC gone
carpet sound and sound dampers gone
seats gone except the for true bucket
dash gone replace with bare essential meters...no speedometer
radio gone
glass except front replaced by acrylic
rear doors replaced by fiberglass
interior trimming gone
trunk replace by fiberglass or carbon fiber
rollcage welded in not bolted
fuel tank replace by impact resistant fuel cell
the list can go on and on.....
And think I haven't even got to the electronics or the engine yet