Thanks, just to prove the point, those are still on my car! Also the set-up on Smogrunner's EVO which finished a strong 3rd (tied with the Cobb R35) in this years USCC. Nice comments about the brakes in the article ("simple yet effective"). With some new 888's and a different driver that car could/should have won the road course. It had gone close to the winning time before with a stock turbo (-120whp) and untuned Ohlins (I know excuses, excuses )

 

Lasting 30 minutes on a stock based setup is pretty impessive actually. No fade at all?

Peeps looking for proper racing Evos to model road race worthy brake setups after need look no farther than Super Taikyu - time trials are a whole different ballgame than road racing when it comes to brakes. You could probably do OK in time trials using stock rotors and AutoX pads

 

Ive always loved that picture at secondcreek^, that track was nasty on brakes

Paul always says it better than I can:

Thats how Ive always understood braking technique

slowly applying more and more pressure is what builds up heat. youre on the brakes longer, and theres already lots of heat in the brakes when you reach 100% braking, its really adds up.

Hopping on them hard and, as paul says, "bleeding" off of them also helps keep the car settled as you enter the corner, as I understand it. jumping off the brakes when entering a turn shifts the weight too much.

But Im not a driving guru, so listen to paul

 

exactly, you got it, it's not so much "settled" as "balanced" and efficiently turning

as for theshadow 30 minutes at the Dubai Autodrome with the typical ambient temps may not be doable without some mega ducting and the car may need to be 3350 wet with driver (just an example so the variables are easy to see).

 

are you or paul talking about trail braking here?

 

yep, do a search if your interested, it was discussed to death a couple of years ago

 

You dont have to trailbrake to use that technique to try and keep heat down, you just have to brake earlier and off the brakes earlier, so you arent on the brakes while turning in. basically just moving where youre braking to an earlier spot on the track. Its not as fast though, lol

 

IIRC the info I read about trail braking is that is generates more heat then straight line braking.

 

no, your confusing it, I believe, with left foot braking when your on the brake and gas together at times which causes serious extra heat.

 

my understanding of track braking technique is that you want do NOT want to let the car "coast" - need to be on the brakes 100% or on the throttle at all times (except when you screw up) and spend the minimum time braking that you can.

I brake very hard and very late, always to the point of where the ABS wants to kick in, then I'm on the power right after. I don't "slam" on the brakes but pretty close!

Although this technique seems to faster, not sure if it's good or bad for managing brake temps. I also avoid left foot braking for the same reason - to save the brakes for stopping.

 

When trailbraking, you arent braking for any longer than you need to, so why would it generate more heat?

 

don't know the logic behind why it would generate more heat but I thought it had something to do with turning the wheel while your braking... atleast thats what I remember reading.

 

Please tell me I'm not going to have a hard time looking for brake pads when its time! How much is a rough estimate of these pads anyways?

 

stoptechs are the way to go in my opinion... lots of pad variety!!

cb

 

I like those as well, we used them to good effect on the AMS TA1 car. I really like that they also have the often overlooked rear calipers as well for a balanced upgrade