psushoe

iTrader: (8)

I'll be looking out for them! I'd be interested in something that goes more than one step softer from the stock bar.

psushoe

iTrader: (8)

John, if you just ran 18" wheels with hoosiers you would have plenty of brake line clearance. Just sayin'

Butt Dyno

iTrader: (10)

Any updates on this?

I have the Bilsteins back on the car, with some fresh Swift Spec R springs. I figure if the rebuild takes too long, might as well have something pretty performance oriented on there for early season events. I took some pictures of the Moton setup on the car, mostly just to remember where all the zip ties go, but want to share that with folks for feedback and see what everyone else is doing for the reservoir hoses.

In other news, Blipshift came out with a pretty awesome shirt



Suspension should get shipped out to PSI soon for the rebuild. Going to see if the DDP's are worth the hype, and pick up some bearings for the front while I'm at it (to get rid of the spring bind I got occasionally). Only 3 more months

4wd4me

Post them up I love to compare notes. Mounting and routing the reservoirs on ours was a major pain in the ***!

Yeah, we also have pretty bad coil bind as well and was shopping torrington bearings, what did you end up going with? ...it's on my list of winter projects ...that and installing cruise control! w00t.

R/TErnie

iTrader: (32)

How do you guys identify the spring bind?

R/TErnie

iTrader: (32)

double post!

griceiv

iTrader: (2)

when you turn the steering wheel it makes noise from the spring rotating/sliding on it's seat

R/TErnie

iTrader: (32)

10-4.

4wd4me

edit, turns out our issue wasn't coil bind or anything to do with the springs or top-hats

the binding, in our case, sounds subtly like spring steel trying to rip itself apart (it’s not subtle), you can also feel it in the steering wheel, and if you jack up the car you might also see it cause the spring/coilover to “pop” when going into droop… happens for us when it’s hot out, which I’m guessing is due to heat expansion

Bassicfun

iTrader: (10)

Installed cruise the 2nd week after I bought my EVO... absolute necessity for a DD I think. Let me know if you have any questions going into that project, I learned a few tricks going through it, then helping another guy install his after mine.

Cheers!

4wd4me

Thanks Brian, I think I might hit you up on your offer for guidance at some point. Did you order yours from lancershop.com? Instead of hijacking John’s thread here maybe we can reconvene back over here instead?

thanks man! and Happy New Year all.

Butt Dyno

iTrader: (10)

I have almost-typed the suspension writeup like 7 times. Keep getting interrupted. The shocks were mailed off to PSI today though, so hopefully I'll get them by mid-Feb or so. I might not even bother getting the car aligned on the stock struts.

Butt Dyno

iTrader: (10)

Suspension setup

Finally!

Here are some shots of the suspension on the car, shortly before removal, with attention to where the zip ties/insulation are and need to be. YMMV Note that a shop did the install - a) I didn’t have the stuff to make the camber plates work and didn’t want to figure it out, b) I had no idea how to route the reservoir hoses safely.

Brace yourself if you are rocking the 56k, this is a Vorshlag-level post in terms of pictures

Driver front

Here it is with the new brake brackets and the... 3rd? 4th? brake line on the front. Mostly just showing off the brackets.



Currently, zip ties only in the general area of the tie rod end. After pulling the shocks off I noticed that there was some abrasion on the line where it went past the metal wall (top of this photo). I am going to put some insulation on that area when the shocks go back on.



Passenger front

Again, showing off the brake brackets (can you tell I’m glad to have them?)



Two zip ties on the tie rod itself, and two zip ties on the tie rod end. Not sure why this is different than driver front - maybe the zip ties died?



Same issue with metal contact on the lines (again, need insulation).



Engine bay

Distance shot. Thanks to jamal from NASIOC for the hellafunctional stickers



Closeup of the clamps that keep the reservoirs on the strut tower bar.


Driver rear

Two zipties on the upper arm.



Closeup of lines going into the spare tire well.





Passenger rear

One zip tie to keep things in place, and some insulation to help avoid the line getting crunched.



Closeup of it going into the spare tire well.



Trunk

One zip tie on the strut bar, one zip tie through the carpet liner.




Reservoirs quick-disconnected!

Butt Dyno

iTrader: (10)

The rebuild



The suspension is en route to PSI. When they get back, they’ll be:
* freshly serviced
* sporting the double digressive pistons
* have bearings on the front

The new pistons definitely add cost, but if I can get more adjustability *and* more streetability... that’s kind of the holy grail. I was also very surprised when I asked for the old dyno sheets and they looked almost linear (see post 314). The reason this was so surprising is stuff like this:
https://www.facebook.com/notes/holli...25364764214164
Maybe I am making too big a deal of the dyno chart I was given (since it was from a while ago and it’s unclear what the settings were) - but from what little I know, the graphs for the DDP’s look good and I my hope for this year is to really play with settings trying to get this thing dialed in. Last year I really didn’t change things much because I was worried about chasing my tail and getting to Nationals and having no clue what to do. Odds are I won’t be in Lincoln this year so I can spend this time on setup without any of that pressure. The power stuff is pretty much handled, so the tweaking should be all that’s really left.

Swift Spec R’s - quick impressions

I was really happy with the stock MR suspension. It’s an excellent daily setup. But figuring that if my rebuild takes too long, I might have to autocross like this, I decided to pick up some Swift Spec R springs (MR-specific) using some Amazon points I acquired (thanks MAP for selling on Amazon!).

Here’s the explanation of the differences between the MR-specific springs and the regular Spec R springs. It’s not really for the differences in the cars, but for the differences in the shocks:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/8826670-post11.html

The most annoying thing about the springs is that the fronts have very few coils (Swift is fairly obsessed with using the least coils possible - upsides and downsides), so getting the spring compressors on and off is a pain in the ***. There’s a narrow window for getting them on there, and trying to put them at 12 and 6 on the spring is pretty much impossible. Other than that, no issues with the install. I followed the instructions here - http://www.evomoto.com/tech_articles..._article_id=22

I did not cut the bumpstops - nothing in the instructions said to.

Initial impressions - these are kind of harsh. Like, almost as harsh as my race setup. If I was driving the car more often I would sell these and get Sports. Spring rates:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...rt-spec-r.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/5550818-post8.html
(Reading the thread, I see Andrew from GTWORX recommending to cut some of the bumpstop off. Doh! I’ll do that next offseason...)

That’s a lot of rate for a non-race spring. But, the upside is the car will be less crippled if I do end up autocrossing with the car this way. When I put the camber bolts back in, I put them in the -2 position, and I’m sure I’ll get some camber out of the lowering as well. I’m not entirely sure if I’m even going to align the car like this though - I’m hoping the real suspension is back soon enough

Here is, as the kids say, the "stance"

Butt Dyno

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, keep an eye out for those spots where the abrasion can happen. More insulation next year for sure. The only other thing I was wondering, is whether there's a better engine-bay spot to mount them. As you can tell at the top of this picture, the stickers on the front canisters melted a bit. And it's kind of hard to reach into a hot engine bay to adjust them - I usually have to put my Nomex gloves on But I don't know of anything better.

In my case the giveaway is a "sproing" noise at low speeds, like pulling in and out of parking spots and driveways and such. Sometimes in a slalom I feel something when the wheel is going through the center position - not sure if that's spring bind or something else.

Performance Shock sells this kit with Torrington bearings-
http://performanceshock.com/index.ph...roducts_id=733

I saw your and Rick's discussion in the CiroDesign camber plate thread and it sounds like the Torringtons are the best bang for buck solution. On my WRX, I did have to re-grease the various parts of the plates to keep the sproing away about once a year - that's acceptable levels of maintenance for me. Certainly better than the binding!