Originally Posted by point&shoot

Both of those tires are great choices if you want something that will last more than one season. People who have them tell me they put them on at home and drive to the autocross with them, so that's a great convenience (you don't have to get to the event 1/2 hour early to change wheels). But you're right, they're not on a par with the Kumho v710's, which by the way are not quite as sticky as Hoosiers, although they're cheaper and last longer. It's all a trade off of money for performance and convenience.

Oh, one more piece of advice that may be specific to the Evo. I just discovered this when switching from street tires to R-compound, and switching between rain and dry: the stock Evo has the strange property that the more traction you give it, the more it will understeer. On my street tires, I used less pressure in the rear than the front, just like it says on the door jamb, and the car was nice and loose. I could rotate it just by lifting throttle in a sweeper. When I put on the R-compound tires, the car was pushing everywhere. I asked a top driver of an Eagle Talon about it (he runs the same tires, and is AWD), and he said that with the Kumhos (or any R-compound, I guess) you have to overinflate the rear tires to reduce the contact patch and make the car neutral again. He uses 8 lbs. more in the rear than in the front. I tried it and it worked great! Except than it started raining and the car was too loose, and I had to let some air out of the rear.

Just a tip.

Originally Posted by Ro

yeah, it looks like a common theme on the autocrossing evos: +5 - +8lbs in the rear.

Originally Posted by point&shoot

But just to reiterate: if you do that with street tires, even the very sticky OEM tires, you will be way too loose (at least for me, and the instructors who drove my car). Higher pressure in the back is the right setting only for R-compound.

Originally Posted by Solo Evo

Fender rolling is not legal in stock classing. You shouldn't need it anyway with 275s, just a +33 offset will do it whether by wheel offset or spacers.



Devin

Originally Posted by Loser

Last weekend I ran with the current setup on a wet course (car is completely stock)

Camber f/r: -0.8/-1.7
Toe f/r: 0/0.05
Tire pressure f/r: 33-34/29-30

The reason for the unusual camber was because the technician wasn't able to get more negative camber in the front. It was only after I got it set that I read on here about the unusual eccentric bolt.
(read here https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...eccentric+bolt )

The autox course was wet from raining the entire night and a light rain that persisted throughout the event. I ended up doing remarkably well, winning my event in AS, and beating all but one of the modified Evos and STis in higher classes. Some of the drivers lucked out of having good runs because a wannabe drift-king wiped out the timing equipment which caused a delay long enough to bring in some hard rain.

My question is was it just that the rear had more grip than usual, or the fact that the rear had more negative camber than the front that helped me? In other words should I keep this setup or increase the negative camber in the front?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by Boder

You must have just driven a lot smoother than the others. That is the key in the wet. Your setup screams understeer. Even in the wet.

Do as everyone else says. Max out the front negative camber with the not so unusual ecentric bolt(used on many "sporty" cars ). Put 5-10 psi more in the rears than the front. In the rain, I use around 4-5 more psi in the rears for a little more stability.

Originally Posted by Boder

You must have just driven a lot smoother than the others. That is the key in the wet. Your setup screams understeer. Even in the wet.

Do as everyone else says. Max out the front negative camber with the not so unusual ecentric bolt(used on many "sporty" cars ). Put 5-10 psi more in the rears than the front. In the rain, I use around 4-5 more psi in the rears for a little more stability.

Originally Posted by Loser

I suppose that I could be running at a pressure where the tire wall isn't rolling, but the tire still flexes a lot. Is that what you hope to prevent with the high rear pressure?

Originally Posted by jbrennen

Try different pressures, including some much higher than you might think. I used to run my A046 tires as high as 44 psi and they seemed to work pretty well, plus making the car feel much crisper in transition. You could learn something useful. And trust the way that the car feels rather than looking at a gauge or a line of chalk or shoe polish on the tire.

Originally Posted by jbrennen

Try different pressures, including some much higher than you might think. I used to run my A046 tires as high as 44 psi and they seemed to work pretty well, plus making the car feel much crisper in transition. You could learn something useful. And trust the way that the car feels rather than looking at a gauge or a line of chalk or shoe polish on the tire.

Originally Posted by jwtodd60

And it appears to be hollow as well. The Tanabe sounds like it was hollow too, a little smaller though, but chrome-moly and a lot cheaper. Too bad neither one listed all of the necessary details to make a fully informed decision. Oh well, nothing new there, at least we have choices now...

JW

Originally Posted by SS RX7 r2

That sounds around 10lbs too high. The 710s like low pressure, but it may be needed on an AS car.

I wish I had time to do the Packwood Pro, I need to get some more points for the finale.