Bumping this thread up. I'm considering this versus installing an upgraded pan. Seems like the Racefab unit is very popular for road-racers.

I'm running mild power ~320whp on a MD. I don't need the ultimate solution, but I want my motor to last with sticky tires roadracing.

Accusump seems cheaper and easier to install than a Racefab pan. AMS seems to only provide extra capacity and advantages for drag racers. Is the accusump the best bang for your buck Evo Wet sump upgrade?

 

you should be aware that an accusump stores cold oil (or at least oil that is not in regular circulation and at the same temp as the rest of your system) and injects it in the engine when there is a drop in pressure. if you're running something really thick like a 20w-50, that might not be the safest thing to do to your engine.

 

that's a good point, never thought of that

 

A baffled pan like the racefab or something similar is best bang for you buck. The Accusump is more complicated to install, and won't work as well.


A dry sump would be the ultimate solution. Everything else is weighing cost/benefit/risk.

 

just need to learn to cycle in that oil, which is pretty easy. manual valve it will do it automatically, but electric valve just need to turn it on, and at idle (once oil is up to temp) it'll dump in that extra oil.

honestly I think i'd take stock pan and accusump vs just racefab pan.

drysump can be superior but comes along with issues of its own.

 

Depends on the lateral G you're pulling. For me, on NT01's as opposed to Hoosier, I don't see much pressure drop. My car maintains 75-85psi on even long right handers. And a pan is much easier to throw on than an accusump setup..

 

you've got a custom pan right? what ab kiggly, scraper, etc?

 

No Kiggly, no scraper. When I installed the pan, it was in the midst of track day prep, and I was simply out of money.

 

A manual accusump is pretty easy to install. Accusump to valve to a/n line through grommet in floor to adapter to oil distribution block. Turn it on on track and turn it off when your done.

 

Great thread. Great input. I agree with whoever said "Dry Sump is the solution." What problems do they come with Andy?

I have had catch can issues so long...I proactively took apart my motor this week to find culprit and address. First time for me....pretty cool. I have been told for years in my circle a $5000 dry sump will solve my problems. Been racing 10/10th's for 3 years on hoosiers and so thankful for my AMS baffled oil pan and kiggly!

 

Colder oil is better than no oil.

Accusumps definitely have their place but after buying a pan and an good accusump system you're almost half way to a dry sump in cost.

IMO the ultimate wet sump solution would be to have a pan that adds enough capacity to the right side of the pickup that it won't starve in long rights and has an angle in the "floor" of the shallow side to allow it to flow oil from the left side of the engine back to the sump faster to allow there to be enough oil in the sump in the case of a quick double right. The biggest issue I see with something like this would be exhaust clearance.

 

actually, the non dry sump solution is a sump that has trap doors where they need to be, larger capacity, and an extra pump that activates in right handers and pumps oil from the flywheel side of the engine back to the oil pump side..

something like this, in development..










as for the negatives of dry sump... apart from cost and complexity is just the potential of engine damage if belt slips... but that is down do design and installation.. However, a good dry sump will give you the opportunity to run a sealed engine which is great for piston ring sealing..

 

Having trap doors is a given, any properly built pan that's made to account for increased lateral G's would have them. Guess I should of included that before.

But trap doors may noot much when it comes to right handers because the majority of the oil in the sump would be pushed towards the pickup and up against the wall in the sump that is next to the exhaust. Which is why a larger capacity is most important (pretty much you're just delaying the starvation by having more oil for the pump).

I have my own pan that I'll be making at the beginning of next year as well. I'll be interested to see how well yours works after it's done. It seems like a fairly complex system in terms of operation to complete a simple task. Is there a reason you have the drain plug so high or is that for a temp sensor?

 

it is the oil return from the external oil transfer pump..

this was just a mockup, real thing wil be done in alu..

yes, extra capacity is a must, as it will delay the starvation.. people often forget that pump is using about 0.4 litres of oil every second.. most of which will end up nex to the flywheel in a right hand corner..

actually the biggest hurdle I have is how to close the oil pickup from above without making everything too user unfriendly..

the external oil transfer pump might not be needed in the end but it is there as a concept to be tested..

 

I don't think you really need to "box" the pickup in at the top if you make the wall/trap doors around it tall enough. That was something I was thinking about for my pan as well. I'm probably just going to retain that stock upper plate.

How were you planning on engaging that external pump? Hooked up to a steering position sensor or something?