When I switched from the ASTs to Ohlins (for only the sake of trying them, jury is still out on which I think is better) I lost the + caster offset of the Vorschlag top hats. Those moved the pivot back 10mm for some amount of extra caster. The biggest benefit for me was fitting the wheel in the wheel well.

With the PSRS bushing the wheel is moved forward quite a bit and without the offset hat I now had rubbing issues in the front on a seam from the fender. I needed to make something quick, here's what I did.



Just waterjet from 1/4" 6061 plate. I had to of course drill/tap the 3 holes and hit it with a sanding block just to scuff it but they turned out pretty good.

These offset 15mm. I modeled the shock full shock and knew I'd have a little interference with the monoball housing cause its quite a bit bigger than needed. A little angle grinder took quick care of that though.



And with the offset being so far, 2 bolts on one side of the camber adjustment just don't fit, so moved one to the other side.



Here's how it all fits in the car.



In total they cost me about $30 a set + my time. I needed them quick for clearance so I didnt bother making caster adjustable, but once I get my CNC together I might make a two-piece plate to get that adjustability.

 

Nice man. Is it my imagination or did ohlins change their plates though as I swear I just saw some offset plates on the ohlins in another thread. Maybe an update at some point as I assume you are on used ohlins?

Have you done an alignment yet? Curious how much they changed caster and how much negative camber you can get.

 

I should have a touch more negative camber available with these than the originals so should be able to get a little over 4 deg. Not sure on exactly what I'll end up for caster as I do my own alignments and haven't come up with a good way to measure that yet.

I need to change the hex screws that were on my original hats to SHCS and then I can move back to 2 screws on each side though not sure that matters much. Also gotta get a shorter M10 stainless BHSCS to replace these which is just what I could find at the local hardware store.

 

I really dig functional DIY.

 

I'm not all that convinced that adjustable caster is much use.

If you are putting a 25"+ tire on the car, the wheel needs to be centered up pretty well or it runs into things anyway. An offset plate like you've done that matches the offset PSRS is about ideal IMO. The dual adjustable ones that rely on the 3 strut tower bolts to lock them together just mean you have to check the alignment of you disassemble anything.

 

That's a good point. I was thinking there would be a set screw separate of the 3 bolts for holding caster once disassembled but if these work out I doubt Ill bother with the extra weight of something not really necessary.

These things are pretty much dirt fricken simple. If someone wanted the .dwg (or what ever your local water jet guy likes) file to get their own made, I have no problems sharing.

 

Nice work there.

 

nice work. i have the Stance caster plate.

 

how much total caster with these?

 

No clue since I've never actually aligned the car at a shop. I do have another set of blank plates if you want to add them on when you pick up those springs.

 

How different are these than Rick's plates?

 

Not quite the same as these are just offset for more caster, vs being slotted for adjustable caster. I like the idea, as I just max out caster and never play with it anyway, so this is less moving parts.

 

No clue how similar these are to Ricks, I only had the Vorschlag plates to compare too. If I remember right, the setback was 10mm from centerline and these were 50% more. Just going off memory here but it seems right in my head.

I thought about making a caster adjustable set but figured it really wouldnt matter and running max caster would be what I'd go for anyways. So fixed caster, lighter, simpler won out.

 

Looks awesome and very functional.

 

Other than being adjustable, the CDR plates provide some more caster and negative camber range. Also the plates are a bit thicker to prevent tin- canning from hard impacts, or for rally use.

The caster adjustment is nice to have to keep the car from pulling to one side, to take into account road crown, tire clearance, etc. For instance, I used it coming back from the Wendover Prosolo on the silver state classic hwy. 2 lane, crowned dark road at high speed for 6hrs, and you could drive it without your hands on the wheel. On the trip up, the Evo's quick steering kept your attention to keep it on the road. That said, it's cool when people like Dallas can make their own parts for a specific purpose.

Rick