Does anyone check rotor and caliper temps after a session road racing?

Curious on that temps you guys see out there.

I boiled my motul 660 today.

Thanks guys

 

Stock calipers? I haven't taken temps, but I boiled Porsche OEM fluid and melted the paint on my front wheels lol. Swapped to the Motul fluid and then blew the motor, so no data lol. But from what I have determined when using stock calipers is brake cooling is a must, haven't tried the titanium shims though( supposed to reduce heat transfer between the pad and piston).

 

I always forget to check my brake temps after a session. But I have caught one on fire and completly destroyed paint on the caliper. They also get hot enough to melt wheel weights off unless taped on.

 

Good to know!

I have stock brembos all around with the racing brake stainless steel piston upgrade. Ss lines, binary ducts and girodisc 2 piece rotors.

 

I don't really have anything helpful to add unfortunately but do have a couple questions. What pads were you using? How much life was left on them? How old was your fluid?

 

Unfort either Motul fluid is very easy to boil once you have a a year or so of track days under your belt because your braking harder and deeper. The best all around fluid I've found has been the Endless RF650. Supurb durability even when I was running stock calipers. I say all around because it can be DD, track, last a year, half the price of Castrol, and the top in compressibility still. Most all brake systems are hydraulic , so don't ignore that statistic.

Based on your parts above you should be in great shape for most any duty other then door to door racing.

 

motul makes horrible brake fluid! i was boiling that back when i was only running 2:09s at thunderhill.

i could have sworn i told you to switch over to project mu g-four 335 brake fluid. Been running that fluid for 2 years now and only needs to be swapped out once a year and small bleeding in between track days. only fluid better than the g-four is the castrol srf

 

I just started taking temps since I needed an excuse to buy one of those non-contact IR thermometers. Only running in DE 3, not racing, but here's what I shot at the Glen after first session Sunday AM. Ambient temp was about 54*F, cool down was minimal since checker shown before turn 8, pitted and straight into the garage:

Caliper/Rotor (Deg F)
LF: 335/526
LR: 233/444
RF: 340/543
RR: 210/438

Rotor temp was taken opposite from the caliper.
Stock rotors
Carbotech XP10/XP8 (front/rear)
ATE Type 200 fluid
Goodridge SS lines

Temps were probably hotter at the end of the last session since it got up to 80*F in the afternoon. Unfortunately I didn't get to take readings since I got side tracked and then had to start packing up. I know the lug nuts were pretty hot when I was swapping my wheels back. I should've shot them too...

 

i run cooling ducts and still see temps on the rotor o4-500+ and front caliper i recall getting up in the 400 range. i havent looked at temps since i put the racing brake pistons in, but apparently im getting stuff pretty hot since my RB hi temp dust boots dried and started cracking, which according to RB requires 400+

 

Depending on how many days you do a year, you should definitely be changing your fluid more than once a year.

I run RC6's and DTC60's, centric rotors with Ti shims, stainless lines, no ducts, on street tires (R-S3's or ZII's). Never once boiled my fluid, AMSoil DOT4.

 

i forgot to mention ive also never boiled using ate superblue/type200

 

aren't the Endless RF650 sold in 500 mL bottle? I use the Castrol SRF and they come in 1 L bottle. If that's the case, then they cost about the same. i get SRF on Amazon for $62 shipped

i've seen my rotor temp up in the 900+ coming in the hot pit. Iron starts to glow red at 900F

 

That's what I want to hear.

900 plus temps

When I got to the pits the rotor was at 400 caliper in the high 300s. This is after a cool down lap as well.

Everything was new pads, rotors etc fluid was put in this summer.

Only ran the 660 because I forgot to order the pmu.

Great help guys I'll switch back to pmu of srf!

 

psshhhh my brake pedal gets super squishy after 1 weekend of tracking on type200..... on stock brake pads!!! It could only handle about 2-3 auto-x's before they needed bleeding... type200 sucks donkey dick.

I have since installed TI shims and entry level track pads. Type 200 still barely lasts a weekend before the pedal is squishy. In fact on a hot texas july day, my brake pedal went to the floor as i came in from a cooldown lap. I'm trying rbf600 next.

 

^You do realize your issues are most likely due to the pads not the fluid, correct?