tial QR vs. synapse vs anything else?
Sounds like yours is a different style than mine. I have an oring on the tube that is pushed into a housing with an outer clip that holds it together.
Terrible description, but the pic below shows the outer clip and its the only thing I tighten.
http://www.turbokits.com/Images/Part...bokitslogo.png
Terrible description, but the pic below shows the outer clip and its the only thing I tighten.
http://www.turbokits.com/Images/Part...bokitslogo.png
Question for those that have the synapse. I put on on my car a few months back and have been dinking around in the car. I finally had some time to do a boost leak test as Im planning on doing some tuning this week after work. Well, low and behold my BLT revealed that the thing is pissing out air right at the flange. Knowing people had stripped out those bolts I didnt want to crank it down but when I put in the allen key I noticed that is was kinda loose already. So turned it some and sure enough it stripped out.
I tried drilling it out and going up a size which sorta worked however there is still leaking issues as I cant tighten it enough and shockingly while trying to get it to not loose any more air I stripped out the other side. As noted from others the sand cast is very poor and being cast AL its very weak.
But then it got me thinking and this is where I think I may have went wrong. Is there some sort of o ring to seal at the flange as my kit evo specific fitment BNIB didnt come with any o rings. If it does then that is obviously why it was leaking. So now I need to try and get in contact with Synapse which seems like itll be a lost cause. Given that I might be out the $250 I purchased it for but hoping Ill have some stroke of luck.
So if anyone can confirm that there is indeed a o ring, well technically 2 one for each flange then that would be helpful for starters so I know what Im dealing with here. Thanks in advance!
I tried drilling it out and going up a size which sorta worked however there is still leaking issues as I cant tighten it enough and shockingly while trying to get it to not loose any more air I stripped out the other side. As noted from others the sand cast is very poor and being cast AL its very weak.
But then it got me thinking and this is where I think I may have went wrong. Is there some sort of o ring to seal at the flange as my kit evo specific fitment BNIB didnt come with any o rings. If it does then that is obviously why it was leaking. So now I need to try and get in contact with Synapse which seems like itll be a lost cause. Given that I might be out the $250 I purchased it for but hoping Ill have some stroke of luck.
So if anyone can confirm that there is indeed a o ring, well technically 2 one for each flange then that would be helpful for starters so I know what Im dealing with here. Thanks in advance!
Yes Sir! There is an O-ring on both flanges. Just need to make sure they are in place and properly seated before you tighten that fake and scary "vband" style clamp.
Mine came with two of these:
Last edited by Pal215; May 8, 2017 at 10:17 AM.
Good to know, thanks! As mentioned the clamp design sucks. And in my case without o rings its no wonder I wasnt able to get it tight enough to seal without it leaking air. The stock bolts are like an m4x.7 so theyre tiny and going into soft cast aluminum I knew it was going to strip out. Figures I thought about a potential o ring after the fact and was like hmmm I bet it does to which you just confirmed...
Now the trick will be getting a replacement and/or refunded.
Now the trick will be getting a replacement and/or refunded.
Sounds like yours is a different style than mine. I have an oring on the tube that is pushed into a housing with an outer clip that holds it together.
Terrible description, but the pic below shows the outer clip and its the only thing I tighten.
http://www.turbokits.com/Images/Part...bokitslogo.png
Terrible description, but the pic below shows the outer clip and its the only thing I tighten.
http://www.turbokits.com/Images/Part...bokitslogo.png
Fingers crossed that Im able to get a resolution here and at the very least get a replacement body. Also, does the o ring go in between the two flanges or is there a groove that it sits in?
Last edited by heel2toe; May 8, 2017 at 12:50 PM.
Alright then the above posts regarding the Synapse settle that I am NOT getting that valve...
So, the quest continues for a valve that holds 30psi rock solid, CAN BE RECIRCULATED with excellent drivability (no too-stiff-spring induced compressor surge, flutter, etc)
So, the quest continues for a valve that holds 30psi rock solid, CAN BE RECIRCULATED with excellent drivability (no too-stiff-spring induced compressor surge, flutter, etc)
All the post about other BOVs to try, I want to hear about how well they manage surge when going from full to part throttle. That's what the synapse is so good at for me. Yeah it holds boost, but when in a sweeper on course/track, I need a smooth decrease in power.
Other BOVs I've experienced dump pressure too fast at small throttle decrease and cause bucking and instability. Not something I'm will to just deal with in driving.
Other BOVs I've experienced dump pressure too fast at small throttle decrease and cause bucking and instability. Not something I'm will to just deal with in driving.
I spoke on the phone with someone at Synapse yesterday and I was told to send an email to support which I did and no response yet. Judging by what has happened to others Im guessing that support email group is a black hole?
If that's the case then I will look into my options getting refunded but the even bigger question money aside as noted above is say the synapse doesnt pan out...what else is out there!?
If that's the case then I will look into my options getting refunded but the even bigger question money aside as noted above is say the synapse doesnt pan out...what else is out there!?
I know the Tial QRJ has more lift surge than the Synapse from talking with MRFred after switching. I think the key to a good drivable valve is a vacuum/pressure area just slightly larger than the valve area, push style valve, and a soft spring for quick response.
If it isn't for the Synapse I would go back to a stock BOV or even 1g dsm valve with the old school dejontool (RIP) mod. Using a solenoid to block the quick response area at high boost but keep it open at lower boost.
If it isn't for the Synapse I would go back to a stock BOV or even 1g dsm valve with the old school dejontool (RIP) mod. Using a solenoid to block the quick response area at high boost but keep it open at lower boost.
Well I would love to get the Synapse working well as aside from the poor manufacturing quality the tech behind the scenes seems to work well.
What kind of pressure can the modded metal valve hold? I put my old dv back on the car which is a WORKS unit but mine opens up right at 27#. After talking with WORKS a few times they didnt seem to care and told me that a DV is a wear item and as such is what it is.
What kind of pressure can the modded metal valve hold? I put my old dv back on the car which is a WORKS unit but mine opens up right at 27#. After talking with WORKS a few times they didnt seem to care and told me that a DV is a wear item and as such is what it is.
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