kikiturbo

but dry sumps tend to have lower crankcase pressure when operating.. that would be my guess why..

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

The pan gasket is RTV 90% of the time when an RTV gasket leaks it's installer error.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Agree on the RTV gasket thing. Except on the AMS/Moroso pan where its not flat and using like half a tube of three-bond is normal....

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

I think the issue with the wet sump pan is it wasn't properly clamped when welded. The wet sump has a lot more weld joints on it than the dry sump so it'd be more likely to warp the flange if it wasn't bolted down to a block or jig while being welded.

LCS

iTrader: (9)

Do you have pictures? Are those oil pans still for sale?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

You can contact him via Facebook. I don't have pictures of it other than on the engine in the car.

amn_suazo

iTrader: (1)

Maybe we can get a group buy with Chad?

LCS

iTrader: (9)

Thinking about it I really don't think any of those wet pans will solve the problem. To me it lies on two features of the oem package: an oil pan volume positioned to the right; the depth of the pan.

Increasing the depth will always help but we are limited by the underside clearance.

There is no way to change the configuration of the oil pan. The oil volume will always be positioned to the right of the engine. On right corners, considering 1G of lateral acceleration and the chassis inclination, most of the oil will move to the left side of the engine. Just a little will stay at the pan, on a slope, barely covering the pickup.

Accusump can help but there will always be air mixed with the oil.

Bigger pan thought just to have more oil volume will work on straights and left corners. Will make a little difference on right corners. Fact is if the oil pressure changes than you have air mixed with it. Those who think more oil will help with temps must be talking about drag racing. On road course more oil will just take more time to heat. I don't believe that the peak temperature should change more than a couple degrees celsius.

With all that in mind I came to an odd solution: adding a separate chamber to the right of the oil pan, but with a trap door that would open on lefties and shut on right corners. On right corners the oil would flow out from this chamber trought a specific diameter hole - even better a pipe with a well positioned end side - in a timely fashion to keep the avaliable oil for the pickup under the optimum scenario. If the oil was allowed to flow freely than most of it would flow to the left side of the engine thus being useless to solve the problem.

Another odd idea would be a completely redesigned oil pickup to fit an oil pan with its upper side almost completely flat. The hole for the pickup would be on the extreme right of the pan instead of being on the middle. A bigger pan, with more oil, and designed like this would trap much more oil closer to the pickup on most situations. The pickup tube would be shaped in a way to enter trought this hole on the right but pickup oil on the middle.

A pickup with a flexible steel sheet welded to it with the purpose of sealing the gap between the pickup and the oil pan also could help. I am talking about a pan that would have drain holes mostly on the right side.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

has anyone with a racefab ever even blown a motor with the racefab due to oil starve?

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

Responses in red.

The inherent design flaw, as you've point out with every wet sump on the market is that the sump area where the pickup lives does not effectively receive drain back oil while going through right turns. I've illustrated this with pictures in another thread.

There is probably a way to make an effective pan without rerouting the exhaust but it'd be very tough and frankly, no one has expressed interest in such a pan because no one has lost a motor with the Racefab pan.

I've seen some logs of low oil pressure with the RF pan, but haven't seen someone starve a motor to the point of failure with one, but that's not to say it isn't possible.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

doesn't the racefab move the pickup? i guess just not ideally enough.

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

Ya they move it more central, if you go back and see my pictures you can tell the difference, drain areas, trap door placement for g directions, etc. I won't go dry until my next motor build for sure because I log great pressure all day. And at that rate I'll likely do the billit block too, kill off both 4G grandfather'd issues.

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

I just ordered the RF pan figuring, from what I've read here and elsewhere, that it's "good enough" if you don't have big grip or big power, or especially a combination of the two.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

The pans don't "exactly" "solve" the issue. But they're a huge step better than the factory and a good stop gap to a dry sump if you don't have a big tire/aero car.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

for smallish tire, stock aero, 320hp car like mine, i think i am set.