2016 SM (Street Mod) Autocross Discussion
Oct 29, 2016, 02:00 PM
#271
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
I want so bad. 
Oct 29, 2016, 09:08 PM
#273
That's just because of the angle the picture is taken, its at full droop and significantly angled down there. The ball joint is positioned a full 2" lower than stock. Camber will just about the same range as stock. There are subtle differences because the arc of the control arm will shift and the ball joint angle is straight.
Oct 31, 2016, 09:35 AM
#274
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Went to autocross on sunday. Just tossed the race wheels on and ran my street alignment (camber -2F, -1.5R, 0 toe). The NT01's did not like that. Had to run tire pressure pretty high, had very little front grip. All the other Evo guys let me run in ASP with them, was about 2 seconds off the pace. I had it turned down to about 25psi of boost, which is still probably 480whp up top. Just too much power and not enough grip...lol. It also made it glaringly apparent that my stance coilovers are in need of replacement. 30k miles on them and they are showing their age in the damping department.
It was also a stark reminder why I don't go anymore. Basically an entire day spent to get 7 minutes and 30 seconds of seat time. They also "DNF'ed" one of my runs because my passenger was holding his iPhone to his chest filming. I know it's a "rule", but I feel like there's no reason the passenger cant hold a small camera/camera phone.
It was also a stark reminder why I don't go anymore. Basically an entire day spent to get 7 minutes and 30 seconds of seat time. They also "DNF'ed" one of my runs because my passenger was holding his iPhone to his chest filming. I know it's a "rule", but I feel like there's no reason the passenger cant hold a small camera/camera phone.
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Oct 31, 2016 at 12:38 PM.
Oct 31, 2016, 11:11 AM
#275
That's just because of the angle the picture is taken, its at full droop and significantly angled down there. The ball joint is positioned a full 2" lower than stock. Camber will just about the same range as stock. There are subtle differences because the arc of the control arm will shift and the ball joint angle is straight.
Can you please summarize:
1. Changes in this revision vs. stock (geo and weight, etc)
2. What's included
3. What the prerequisites are (assuming the customer has...?)
I'm still mostly street car, but have a keen interest in exorcising the understeer demon.
Oct 31, 2016, 12:52 PM
#276
Certainly.
1) The primary change is to move the ball joint down two inches from stock relative to the wheel to account for lowering the car. If you ever model the stock front suspension, depending where you have static camber and slider axis positioned, you'll have a roll center that drops rapidly underground. I can recheck the actual position for various scenarios but a 2" drop basically doubles your roll couple. I pair mine with the Whiteline ball joint for a 2.65" correction for my car. I do know I can put my front stock BBS's on even still but clearance is very small at that point.
I also replace the steering rod with a rod end in double shear with various spacers to give a range of bump steer adjustment from WL ball joint and stock caster to stock ball joint and 7deg of caster (the two extreme cases I looked at).
2) This is the upright assembly with all hardware, steering rod end with spacers, and new brake bolts. It doesn't have strut bolts, wheel bearing or bolts, or ball joints. Those you use all your OEM parts.
3) I would suggest most things are already done, but the only real requirement is that you are about 2" lower than stock up front. The goal for this upright is to bring roll center of a lowered car back to near OEM height. You also want the stock front bar back if you have a big bar, and add the cusco or ciro swaybar brackets for adjustment.
1) The primary change is to move the ball joint down two inches from stock relative to the wheel to account for lowering the car. If you ever model the stock front suspension, depending where you have static camber and slider axis positioned, you'll have a roll center that drops rapidly underground. I can recheck the actual position for various scenarios but a 2" drop basically doubles your roll couple. I pair mine with the Whiteline ball joint for a 2.65" correction for my car. I do know I can put my front stock BBS's on even still but clearance is very small at that point.
I also replace the steering rod with a rod end in double shear with various spacers to give a range of bump steer adjustment from WL ball joint and stock caster to stock ball joint and 7deg of caster (the two extreme cases I looked at).
2) This is the upright assembly with all hardware, steering rod end with spacers, and new brake bolts. It doesn't have strut bolts, wheel bearing or bolts, or ball joints. Those you use all your OEM parts.
3) I would suggest most things are already done, but the only real requirement is that you are about 2" lower than stock up front. The goal for this upright is to bring roll center of a lowered car back to near OEM height. You also want the stock front bar back if you have a big bar, and add the cusco or ciro swaybar brackets for adjustment.
Nov 1, 2016, 08:19 AM
#285
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by kyoo
what's the context of going back to stock FSB? I thought there was a big discussion of why the FSB should be stiffer? or is this with that new fancy setup in the front suspension?