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Battery trunk relocation track day question

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Old Sep 1, 2016, 04:41 PM
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Battery trunk relocation track day question

I have a mini battery in my Evo 8. I drive the car so rarely, it's an 03 and I have just over 30k miles (I'm the original owner and it's not my daily). Because of the big gaps in drive time my battery doesn't last long. I was going to get an optima and a relocation kit and put it in my trunk but I remember in my drag racing days you couldn't without putting a cut off switch on the exterior of the car. I am not willing to do that and I would have to change my setup under the hood to accommodate the factory battery tray.

Can I get a battery box/relocation kit and run at HPDE/track day events without installing an external cut off?

Thanks
Old Sep 1, 2016, 05:08 PM
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Yes. Don't even need a box for an optima or the like. Ever thought of just using a battery tender?
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Insidious Evo (Sep 1, 2016)
Old Sep 1, 2016, 05:14 PM
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Great, thank you.

I did think about a tender but my ultimate goal is to drive this thing to different tracks in my region of the country so I want a battery I can count on, not just small and light.
Old Sep 1, 2016, 06:41 PM
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We are in the same boat. I drive my EvO only on some weekends & been running the PC680 up front
Here are some trunk ideas for you










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Old Sep 2, 2016, 06:55 AM
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Lithium batteries are so light now that I just dont see the need to move it unless you need the space. My battery setup is right around 3lbs total and even I can see the diminishing returns of trying to move that.
Old Sep 2, 2016, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Lithium batteries are so light now that I just dont see the need to move it unless you need the space. My battery setup is right around 3lbs total and even I can see the diminishing returns of trying to move that.
Are the lithium able to hold a charge like the optima batteries can?
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Old Sep 2, 2016, 08:17 AM
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For a track car, they're just fine. Mine has been in the car over a year and I bought it assuming it to be an annual expense.


Here is my particular setup except I put a microfiber towel under the battery to give it something to squish against. The battery itself is only 2.6lbs and I cut down a factory bracket to just minimally what I needed. I have two heavy duty zipties (Not whats shown, those were just for testing purposes) that would take something hugely significant to break (Still waiting for someone to argue that's not enough...)


Battery trunk relocation track day question-fpqerge.jpg
Old Sep 2, 2016, 08:21 AM
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^^^Dallas, what model no. is that? Want to check the CCA & price
Old Sep 2, 2016, 08:28 AM
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Im with Dallas on this one too. I've posted pictures of my setup before but here is is again. 2.5 years going strong but I do DD the car so it keeps in nice and charged.

540CCA and cost me I wanna say ~$260. I trimmed the stock tray picked up a set of terminals and a fancy ebay spesh battery tie down for extra HP

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Old Sep 2, 2016, 08:41 AM
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My battery is smaller in CCA but it cranks far harder than my old odyssey pc680 ever did. I have seen the car doesn't have a ton of spare capacity so if it doesn't start the first few times you could run out of juice.


That hasn't happened to me yet, but one time after sitting a couple weeks and I replaced the fuel pump, the car took a couple tries to start. Normally, even on E85 in low temps, my car starts on 1st or 2nd attempt. Only need 2nd when its real cold though.


I also had the battery drop below the voltage cutoff once after sitting a month. Put the charger on it and it came right back.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Old Sep 2, 2016, 09:36 AM
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I used a Taylor battery box and put it in the rear driver side of the trunk. Ran 1/0 welding leading through driver front fender well, through the grommet that's right up at the top at the back of the driver fender, then ran the cable under the door sills, up to under the rear seat and into the trunk. I grounded the battery on the driver rear strut tower bolt.
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