kyoo

iTrader: (29)

damn, that is a sweet gif!!! wish i had one like that of my car! also, clean the front of your car! lolol

Jim3142

iTrader: (2)

Thanks! Got some more tweaks to make but the car feels pretty solid in slaloms right now




A little over a month ago, I was at an event at El Toro and I had hit a cone on my fastest scratch run, that wasn't all the way in it's box


Thanks! And the car actually hasn't been washed since Nats

Construct

iTrader: (4)

Great GIF. I see your front lip takes as much abuse as mine does.

How do you like the 700/1000 spring rates? I'm planning on 650/900 for next season, but after seeing how well your setup works I may have to try 700/1000 first.

Jim3142

iTrader: (2)

Yep, that front lip has definitely seen better days

I've been running 700/1000 for a little over a year now, tried 700/900 before that and the car rotates better with the 1000lb-in springs in the rear. However, if you have a big rear bar with really stiff springs you'll probably run into the issue of the rear end hopping if you add a lot of throttle on corner exit. I'm currently trying to find a happy medium with this right now; I don't mash the throttle on exit (I typically feed the gas/roll on throttle) but my co-driver this year thought the car would be faster if you could get on the gas sooner so we softened the rear bar to reduce the hopping. It did reduce some of the hopping but the car got more pushy and the front end feels a little less responsive as a result. Here's a video from August of this year, before the rear bar was softened:

Ride quality definitely suffers with the high rear rates though (I drive to/from events in the Evo, and sometimes to work/run errands).

MrAWD

What is the trick to get throttle to be displayed full 100% on your Solo Storm? When I go all the way with the pedal, I only get about 88% on the screen...

BigT

iTrader: (8)

This might be an Evo X/DBW thing. I remember logging my old Evo X and it never displayed 100% throttle at high RPM.

Construct

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the feedback. 650/700 has been surprisingly streetable on my Ohlins, but 1000lbs in the rear would be a massive 43% increase in rate over my current setup. I don't expect that to be comfortable.

With the 650/700 + medium-big rear bar setup on 245s I could usually get the rear end to rotate like I needed, but with the extra grip and reduced thrust on 265s I rarely get the back end to move any more.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Jimmy: 1000lb springs? Is that a typo?

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Nope, those guys believe in high spring rates and ignore tire rates

But you all know my stance on this... 3hz, no mo!

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Interesting. I may be swapping from 11k to 10k due to being maxed out on rebound damping. I'm thinking 11k is a little much (especially with re71s). I thought I was too stiff. Now I think I'm good either way, which is a relief. My car isn't set up for AX, though, so it all may be moot, anyway.
I did have 1000lb springs on the rear of a Civic I used to drag race. Wow stiff LOL. That takes commitment! Of course the Civic was really, really light. Sucker bounced ask over the freeway ha ha.
Jimmy: your car must change direction like right NOW. That would be awesome.

Jim3142

iTrader: (2)

I noticed that as well when I switched from 245 BFGs to 255 RE71Rs - the car became more pushy and less willing to rotate. Hopefully from more net grip overall


Nope.


I wouldn't necessarily say I believe in high spring rates...but the car has worked better with more spring than it did with less spring . If my Evo was still my DD then I would probably be running softer rates overall. Though, I've driven the Evo just over 12k miles this year (and 25k miles since the beginning of 2015, when I got a new DD).

Construct

iTrader: (4)

My current 650/700 + Hothckiss RSB setup was inspired by your previous posts here. It worked well on 245s on our mediocre local lots last year, but I need more rotation on 265s now.

Over the winter I'm going to refresh my rear diff. I may swap in a stiffer adjustable RSB, because I never touch the two softer settings on the Hotchkiss bar any more. I can't reduce camber in the rear without first gaining more clearance somewhere, which isn't easy under STU rules. I'll probably try 800 or 850 springs in the rear before jumping to the 900-1000 range to avoid an unnecessary revalve if possible.

What would you suggest I try, Dallas?

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I think ~800 is about the upper limit in the rear I would ever suggest, so you still have room to move up. I'm at 700/800 and lighter than you but on race tires of course. I would start with either the 24mm whiteline rear swaybar. 24mm bar softest setting is basically Hotchkiss stiffest so you have basically your current setup with room to go stiffer.

If more rear bar isn't enough (would be surprised) then can go up to 800lb/in springs.

Construct

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the input. I'll probably buy some 800 lb/in springs and a bigger RSB to experiment with next season.

According to the manufacturers' specs the Whiteline 24mm middle setting is nearly the same as the Hotchkiss full stiff setting:

Hotchkis: +10%, +27%, +47%
Whiteline 24mm: +19%, +42%, +67%
Whiteline 26mm: +67%, +95%, +127%

The Whiteline 26mm is listed as being 5lbs heavier than the 24mm though.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Ooh, I knew one of the settings was same as top hotchkiss but was going off memory. I have the WL26 on my car and just changed the 26mm front bar back to stock when I put on my uprights.