Camber plates seems a bit pointless to make anything expensive. Just replace the top hats plate of existing coilovers to get your caster. People can certainly buy some of the caster adjustable stuff but I would rather max out my caster regardless. So adjustable isnt really giving much other than added cost.

I also am pushing hard to make things work well as a peice meal upgrade path because i understand its hard to drop big money as a hobbiest. Even $1750 for my uprights is big money for most people on suspension. Really have to build in as much value as i can.

 

You got any more information on your LCAs? Are you going to do a version with +1" length (or length adjustable)? Is the caster going to be fixed or adjustable? It seems like it wouldn't take any more work/cost to make the rear part of the arm a rod end as opposed to welding onto a tube.

 

Im like 90% dont with designing the arms, just gotta make some decisions on various parts and figure out hkw to make them. Length isnt adjustable buy i can certainly worj something out with you to make a 1" longer version. Trailing arm will have a rod end at the rear mount but looking at length of adjustment you can only reasonably get +/- 0.5deg caster adjustment without longer or shorter arm. Just limited by thread length there.

I also did some FEA checks and it shouldnt be any problem for me to notch out the area for brake ducting. I can double the open area and ill offer it as a free machining operation to anyone in the first batch since ill change that for V2 (if we get there with all tge new options popping up lately...).

 

what's the advantage of longer control arms? I went through the thread and didn't see anyone mention "why".

 

I would assume one of two reasons. Wider track width to reduce weight transfer or wider tires like 315 range. Longer control arm to reduce scrub radius. Need to compensate at strut top also to reduce camber and SAI. Shouldn't be a problem tho, at least with Ohlins. Need someone local with different shocks so I can get the dimensions.

 

Those were clearly just rough numbers. Evo X arms give wider track obviously, etc, etc. I maxed out rear camber at 1.67. Anymore and toe was affected so yeah I need/needed rear arms. Rear LCAs and Tow arms are over $500 easy.

 

Although I completely agree on paper with Dallas comment:
Rear seems uneccessary to upgrade since it's not "the Gating item",

There may be things we don't know, and I'll ask, maybe Wisefab will explain why rear was changed?
I did ask at Buttonwillow but was advised that it's question best directed at chief designer- by the owner of Wisefab.

There is also different focus for each one of the disciplines, where in Autocross you build cars with setups that perform gloriously and win, but should/could never use on roadcourse and bumpy backroad.

I am not at this point customer for Wisefab setup for two reasons:
I am not a racer, just enthusiast who thrives on perfecting / optimizing setup for performance
I already have the X arms, X uprights, PSRS, Spherical front, top mounts, and it all fit without alterations to original body - which is key to me as my 10K original miles car is no salvaged track *****.

I dig Dallas work..I wanted to transplant Ralliart R4 arms etc for ever..
But the price was and is steep.

I am actually skeptical still of benefits of Wisefab and any other similarly radical setup, because there is no data at all to show benefiits/lap time reduction and more driver confidence.

Yes Tony Szirka was significantly quicker this year on Wisefab than last year on Evo X arms/uprights,
But Professional Awesome was still WAY faster on Evo X setup!!!

I am glad early adapters will be able to share their experiences.

Evo X setup was/is no brainer win..so the choice was obvious.

 

It sounds like your rear is sitting too high then. You should be able to squeak out close to 2 degrees in the rear before your toe gets wonky.

 

This is where I get kinda lost. AutoX guys use some crazy setups that I'd never expect to use. Half of this stuff probably isn't really needed for what I do.

 

FYI:
Evo rear having more grip than it needs is true in Autocross, but not at roadcourse speed.
Without big rear wing Evo is way too loose on roadcourse,
And can definitely benefit from more rear grip.

I run GTC300 APR
Small APR front splitter
25mm rear bar on 2 out of 3 settings.
10/12kg spring rates on Ohlins

My rear is definitely alive!

Properly optimized front of Evo can be brought to steadfast immediate turn in the other near zero understeer, rear will always at that point be looser on square spring rates and small rear bar!
I emphasize this square spring rates and small bar so we are clear this is not spring bias or big bar causing rear loosenes.

It's modest mass, big weight transfer (even less mass), aero..., and optimized front.

This setup is winning European TA, Evo's, multiple cars setup. A hush hush fact even drivers/owners keep quiet about.

 

I would love to get some bigger names running my uprights and testing with me but I just cant afford to give away anything. I had been talking with the guys at professional awesome about parts but they are still trying to figure out the direction they want to take things.

For now a couple key autoXers will be running them and should find out next year if its as big of a deal as I think it is to correct the front. Though I really think my latest works on Caster will have huge impacts few evos have explored.

 

Got some work done last night, I think I'm about 95% done. Now I need to start working on prototyping. I don't have a lathe so will have to make a few specific changes so I can make all the parts on the CNC.

Also making some lightweight hubcentric spacers specific to my wheels and the max caster top hats. I have the material to make most of the parts and have most of next week off so hoping to spend that time making stuff

 

Screw in Howe balljoint or an OEM replacement or shank similar to Nagisa/Racefab?

 

My original thought was to use an OEM replacement but turns out thats pretty hard to find. Then I thought the WL would be a good easy solution but I cant find them without the tie rods and they're expensive.

So my current solution is to use a post machined from 4130 and drilled/tapped for a bolt. I can build the step into the shaft for a spherical bearing on the hub side and use a 19mm ID spherical bearing which is huge compared to stock bearing. Load is not a problem there and keeping 19mm OD will make the part a bit stiffer than stock with how much it tapers.

The bigger design challenge was at the base of the transverse arm and actively clamping a spherical in place since loads change directions (accel/decel). I have 4 m4 screws holding the green part on which has a small nominal interference with a spherical. The screws are loaded in acceleration with the thought that because of weight transfer it will see significantly less force than braking regardless of power.

Overall though, my approach has been to apply 2000lbs in various directions and design around a maximum of 1mm displacement. This definitely exceeds stock stiffness from my FEA checks but because its front suspension and under these are race parts, I am trying to exceed stock in every way I can.

This is actually why Im using 6061 over 7075. 7075 is about 75-100% stronger than 6061 but its not any stiffer. Since Ive placed stiffness as my primary concern, actual strength factor of safety is high. At 2000lbs, the weakest areas still have a F.S. over 5.

And to clarify, 2000lbs comes from factory ball joints will fail before this. So I know loads cant be exceeding that since no one complains about bent ball joints.

 

Re: lower ball joints:
Maybe these guys would OEM them to you Dallas...
http://www.superpro.com.au/find/roll...999500378/vid-
These are probably sketchy...
https://www.lancershop.com/customer/...cat=105&page=1

And on the spherical front lower control arm replacement theme, I'd never heard of these guys before:
http://www.esmrace.com/category-s/151.htm

Looks nice enough, but I don't understand how the horizontal (front) bearing gets properly located in the arm during the press operation such that the rear bushing (or bearing) still aligns with the vertical thru bolt. When everything is solid and without adjustment, it's gotta be perfect to line up. And nothing is ever perfect. Compound that with all of us pressing in our PSRS or Duroballs not quite perfectly clocked and it seems like you're gonna load the **** out of the front bearing.

Or it just "completes" the press operation and puts it into a happy place.