The idea behind the plates are to maximize caster and when it comes to pushing the envelope one of the things that now suffers is limited caster adjustability up top. However according to Dallas's finding there is another ~degree or so of camber to be gained below from the slop so you still should be able to achieve a good amount of static camber.

Dallas- I know you may have already mentioned this but it may have been figures from your models but im curious if you can get a measurement of camber now that you have the plates installed on the car. Can you max it out, write down the number and then push it in as much so we can see the range. I know you mentioned the rouge range but that is with the hub loose so Im curious if it tightens up the range when things are snugged down.

I really want a set of those plates but as I said before the deciding factor here will be how the arms turn out as I'd like to keep my wheels centered. And do you have a rough idea of the cost for the arms?

 

I would think you would need to run his lower arm in order to run these top plates. Or a lower that moves the tire forward to counteract how far back this plate will move the tire.


Balrok, the point of this complete setup, lower arm and top plate, is to achieve 8-8.5* of positive caster. With that, the tires gain camber when you turn the wheel, so you can run less static camber, for more forward grip. I believe Dallas said he was hoping to run around 3* static camber.

 

You certainly wouldn't get 4.5deg of camber out of it because I'm taking out maybe 1/2 a degree, will double check those numbers compared to the stock plate that comes on the ohlins. Also, my setup may be slightly different than most because of the uprights, there are slight geometry changes and clearance differences in the hole locations. I can put things together and measure the angle difference between in/out and both direction on the bolt. I wont be able to get max/min actual numbers because the car is half apart for the winter but I can at least find the difference from original ohlins part.

Moving the top 15mm adds about 1.25 deg of caster and moves the wheel 0.15" at the center. So 30mm would be 2.5deg and 0.3". With the PSRS it will be fine with short tires or bigger offset but my particular setup with tall 295s and effective +18 offset rubs with the 15mm offset. Taking out 5mm of spacer (down to 15mm) would give me clearance at 15mm but would probably rub again at 30mm.

That's of course where the control arm comes in, I want to move it forward another 15-20mm from where it is with the PSRS.

 

Makes sense. With my old KW/KMAC/PSRS/Robi setup I was rocking 8-9 deg of positive caster but ran into all sorts of issues rubbing in the front. I had to either cut bumper or rub rail with varying wheels/tires/spacers and was very annoying.

 

Just a quick measurement but the new hats are 4mm from the max adjustment on the Ohlin plates. That would be a drop of But looking at them I had an idea that could be pretty cool. I can set them up so they have two options of camber and caster. One at 30mm caster offset (+2.5 deg) and 6mm less camber (0.5deg), or mount the plates rotated on the other side and drop some caster but gain some max camber. Will have to look at the numbers but will give you guys a bit of flexibility.

 

not needed post...

 

Oops, corrected the typo.

With the extra caster though, and looking back at the table on the first page, I really think under 3degs is where I'll end up with around 8deg of caster. Should have some decent data logging capabilities this year and a little private track time to play with things.

 

Sweet. Once I get my new tires/mounted I will contact you about ordering some spacers.