Just skimmed the previous pages and dont know if Ive posted pics of the top hat for max caster/fixed camber. Machined one side tonight and other than cutting the tabs and filing those down, its done.

Need to mirror the part and copy over the tool paths to cut other side in remaining material. This was sorta fun, I did the counter sinks with a ball mill and 3D contour bottom up and they turned out fantastic. So smooth and only really took about a minute.

If you look at "your" uprights, then look at the big hole location on these, you'll understand how much offset these have. This alone is worth something like 2.3 deg caster but need control arm mods to move the wheel forward. PSRS at a minimum.

These obviously fit Ohlins, would need some info from other people to make setup specific to coilovers like AST, MCS, FA, ?..

I have AST and a decent set of calipers. What would you need to know?

Dallas, how much for a set of your camber adjustable top plates with increased caster for my ohlins?

Curious as well. The plates should be affordable I'd imagine but what Im even more interested in as I mentioned prior would be the cost of the LCA's to go along with the plates...

I have Vorshlag plates. I'm guessing Dallas' yield even more caster?

I am wondering if any of these parts would benefit EVO X as well? Something that would help STU build would be interesting, starting with camber plates...

Basically the info needed for me to replicate the bolt pattern and relation to bearing housing. If you look at my latest top hat, the center line of mounting bolts are inline with the center line of bearing housing. That offset would be needed since I have a countersink.

So there are 2 versions of the uprights I made. First one with adjustable camber and about 1.3deg caster added which has a 15mm offset. The second I just made has double that offest of 30mm for about 2.6deg caster. For comparison, the Vorshlag top hat is offset 10mm. So these are pushed far more to the extreme and have a noticeable effect on wheel position (moving them back)

I attached a picture to show stock vs low offset vs the latest max effort. The max effort literally requires flathead screws counter sunk into the mount and non-adjustable camber solely to maximize caster. This will sit against the body sheet metal and since I haven't yet mounted things, I dont even know what other issues might pop up pushing it this far back. BUT I WILL MAKE IT WORK BECAUSE RACECAR!

Of course that also means we need to push the wheel forward so other work will be needed there in at least the PSRS. If running big *** tires like me (295 A7s on stock fenders) then that wont be enough. And what Im working on in Billet arms or custom other things will be necessary.

If you want the 15mm offset hats, get a few people together and I can get you them for $50/pair or if you have your own waterjet hookup, I'll email you a dxf (for $FREE!). Another guy here already made a set for his car and reaping the benefits of all dat caster .

I might offer the machined 30mm offset for $100 by themselves or free with the billet control arms Im working on. Basically they are meant to work together.

We have a five-axis machine. Will that work? LOL

Oh, and if I'm correctly understanding what you are needing I can get those measurements for you after the weekend.

Got the hardware in to finish putting these together. Was a little painful since I needed very specific flat head and corrosion resistant hardware. I wanted M10x1.25 screws but they don't exist without a massive order so I had to settle on M10x1.5. Even those are a buck a piece but stainless for the screws and zinc plated for the nuts/washers.

Im considering ordering 20 plates of 6" x 6" x 3/8" to make for that handful of people that would want them this aggressive but each one would have to be custom depending on caster offset vs camber offset and bolt pattern. For one off parts and the amount of time I would have to put into each one I would have to charge $100 (like I posted previously) and would come with all the hardware as long as its the common M6 for bearing housing to strut plate.

Doing this for others would be basically a fund raiser to help pay for materials to make the control arms. All my budget from uprights (Half sold btw!), just goes to partially pay back wife loan and buy another set. So need to do some smaller projects and get the funds for a batch of control arms.

I may also do the super light hubcentric spacers for $120 for a fund raiser too. My 15mm spacers are 0.5lbs.

I could use a couple spacers. 15mm is a bit more than I need, but I would live LOL

Id be interested in spacers too. 15mm the biggest you can produce?

Oh, 15mm was an example for weight but I can do thinner or thiicker probably up to 21-22 mm and down to under 10. Once you get too small it gets tough holding it the way I am for fixturing but I'm just facing down one side.

Hubcentric:

7mm
12mm
17mm
22mm

Everyone else makes 10/15/20 and none of them really do what we want fitment wise.

On the top hat however...just to be clear...you're expecting the adjustability to come from moving the bottom of the shock around within it's limits? So for example if I put it all together and got -4.5 camber out of it, then with all the stock parts moved inwards I can only get -4.0 out of it what advantage is it over the others? I can see if you're other parts come into play, but not by itself mind you.

I run a +38 RPF, so a +12 would probably work, assuming the stock studs don't hit the wheel.