LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

17's are going to rub before 18's. I did notice that my 18x9.5 +35 street wheels still rubbed a bit on the stock arm.

DaWorstPlaya

iTrader: (31)

Great info guys, SCCA parking lot guy here as well but I don't have the kind of questions Kyoo has.

After 12+ years of owning my Evo 8 MR I think it's time I made it into a HPDE/TT fun car as I have another car for the parking lot srs bzns.

Just a little back ground, I primarily auto-xed the car for several years and have done HPDEs with it in stock and slightly modded form. The plan is to focus on brakes, tires and suspension and hopefully get signed off for TT3 or 4 at some point. The list of mods I'm thinking about:

1. Coilovers.
2. Sway bars and endlinks.
3. Brake duct kit, Ti shims and track pads.
4. Upgrade/replace a lot of suspension bushings.
5. 17x9 wheels and Toyo R888R tires.
6. ARP wheel studs
7. Catback exhaust and k&n air filter as only power mods, every thing else stock because MR 6 speed tranny with notorious 4th gear.
8. Eventually more aero bits ...

I noticed the TT rules have changed (there is no TTA and TTB anymore) and the Evos are now listed as TT1-4. Anyone know what TT class the car will fall into with the listed mods? Would like to be in TT4 if possible.

Everything is slowly being purchased and collected over time. Wheels seems to be problematic. It's a pity they don't make the 5Zigen FN01RC anymore in 17x9. Those wheels fit perfectly with no spacers and rubbing issues. Affordable too.

Heat and weight are obviously the enemy. But I would like to learn more of the issues you guys have faced over the years.
What reliability concerns are there that I should be watching out for?
Do you guys foresee any issues with mods I'm thinking about?
Is cooling going to be an issue?
Is there anything that I should seriously consider upgrading/replacing before I head out?
Should I replace any OEM parts as a precaution? Eg: Fuel pump, wheel bearings?

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

heyyyyy

nollij

iTrader: (21)

Build/maximize around TT3 or 4 ruleset. Don't bother with Aero bits at first. If you get a bit more into it, you can always add aero or more horsepower.

Buy the best set of coilovers you can afford. Don't spend much money on any other modifications.

Don't screw with the sway bars. Just leave it stock and get a cusco sway bar bracket.

Don't worry about brake ducts until you have spent enough time on TRACK PADS that you know you need them. Don't use street pads or Intermediate/AutoX pads. I only use AutoX pads in the wet.

Don't bother with 17" wheels. Go straight to a set of 18x10.5. The staple for Evos is the 275/35/18 before stepping off into fat tire land. Do whatever spacers/wheel studs you need to get them to fit.

In TT3/4 cooling shouldn't be much of an issue with the power that you will be running at.

Inspect the car regularly (wheel bearings, ball joints, etc.) and change your fluids semi-regularly. Only replace bushings if they appear worn or loose. Poly bushings aren't necessarily an upgrade over OEM considering the stiction they can create.

The 6-speed will be fine at your power level if you keep it to 20 minutes per hour on-track time.

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

Keep an eye on a 5 speed for cheap if you're not stuck on the 6. Yes on 18's. Don't bother with TT4 and go 3, the penalties on AWD/weight etc don't make the engine happy at such a low range. And it's no fun getting passed by everyone in a car capable of TT1. Also yes on going straight to 275's.

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

From what HondaGuy has said, with I think about 350whp, he still had to add ballast weight to get to ~3400 lbs. I believe it was for TT3. TT2 can have a higher power/weight ratio. I believe 275 is the biggest you can go without also taking a points hit for TT3/2. Would have to read the 2017 rules to confirm.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, 3400lbs would be interesting. I could get my car to 52/48 weight distribution if it was 500lbs of ballast on the rear axle.

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

Ya 350 average which would likely be 378 peak is more TT2 levels which is what he ran before. Since our cars are so tunable it makes no sense at all to add all that weight, just detune.

So if your car weight was 3000 flat, as raced, and you had 275's and aftermarket aero, you can average 306hp for TT3 or 340 for TT2. For TT4 you'd have to come down to 254 average . It all depends on your parts and tuner to determine how that average Vs peak comes out, but our platform makes for many ways of getting there.

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

amen. But alas you're only allowed up to 250lbs of ballast.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

What if you ran like full spare, full tank of fuel, Bang stereo system, a few relocated things to the rear (big *** battery, ACD, Power steering), then added your 250lbs of ballast?

Lol... I have no clue what your rules are. I live in SM world where the rules are merely a suggestion

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

I did not know this, and I am not happy to hear it.

DaWorstPlaya

iTrader: (31)

Found the TT calculator on NASA's webpage. Seems like as my car sits, it is most likely in TT4. All the power readings seem to be based on average wheel HP (this was my biggest confusion). I'll have to dyno my car to find out how much power it puts out to the wheels in its current form.

Do any of you guys use accusumps? How about Tranny coolers?

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I think I'd be in the "you poor fool" class. Also known as good effin luck!

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

Nah TT/ST is easy to build for. The less weight the less power the more reliable everything is in the end. All of things you're building are legal, it's only once you go tubular subframe that you take a .4 penalty and then it's pretty much unlimited.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

not sure if this is the right place, but Castrol SRF is 57.94 right now, the cheapest I've seen it at least:
better price/vendor elsewhere?