xBoostx

I believe im overheating the tires as the outer shoulder to the top of the sidewall is blueish. This is happening on all 4 corners. I believe I was running to much rebound and not enough spring. I was just at NOLA.

My spring rates are 550lb (10k) Front 600lb (11k) Rear.
MCS Shocks | Vorshlag Camber/Caster Plate
Eibach Sways setting 2 of 2 F setting 2 of 3 rear
7 clicks from soft Ffront | 8 clicks from soft rear
Alignment -3.1 FL -3.7FR | -2.1LR -2.1RR | 0 Toe square
Tires 275/35/18 RE71R 34psi F 35 psi R
Evo X weight with Driver ~ 3670

For some reason I cant get more negative camber front left, going make sure nothing is bent.

I am getting understeer at low speeds and a bit of oversteer at high speeds. Also mid corner I feel to much slide laterally.

Could i also need more spring rate? The leading edge of the tread is lifted a bit as well.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Too much front camber, not enough air pressure (if those are your hot pressures). You shouldn' need more than 3* front camber on that setup. Leading edge isn't lifted, that's he trailing edge. That happens when driving the car hard.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

It doesn't seem like there would be much adjustment but to balance the camber you need to adjust your subframe. If youre left side has less, loosen the 2 big nuts by front of control arm, 2 big bolts at rear of control arm, and remove the two small screws. Use a pry bar to load the subframe towards driver side and tighten passenger side first. Then tighten driver side.

You wont be able to just shift it around because its heavy with lots of heavy things resting on it, but it will shift this way. My car has the same camber difference if I just put tighten the subframe after say doing a clutch. I have to do the above steps each time.

As for blueing, how old are the tires? If they've been roasted on that edge and are more than a year old, that would explain it. Time to burn them up quick to get fresh rubber.

LV///R

iTrader: (36)

This definitely seems to be a common "issue" in regards to tracking the RE71r tires from what I've gathered on various forums and from personal experience.

I blue'd my sidewalls of the 255/40/17 RE71r's when I had tracked my old S2000 last year. Tires were almost brand new (maybe a few hundred street miles on them)

The car was simply on 8.5" width wheels with a front bar and upgraded pads/fluids along with max'd out negative camber. I really didn't think I was pushing things that hard either maybe 8/10ths or 9/10ths. Outside temperatures were only in the 50 degree range. However I was running 30 minute sessions...

How long of sessions are you running? As great as the RE71r's are, I will never run them as a track tire in the future. They're great the initial couple laps, but then start to lose grip the longer you run them. And from what I've gathered, the longer the sessions you run, the more the wear seems to increase when they get hot.

These are just my thoughts, take them for what they're worth.

xBoostx

I thought I would need that much considering how close to the edge the ripple gets from cornering.
I agree with the tire pressure, still trying to firgure out the best pressures to run. I will try 37-38 next.

That makes complete sense. That prob exactly what i need to do.

Tires have 1 autocross day and 1 track day. Back to back. Maybe a total of 100 miles Tire date is 37/16

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Increasing tire pressure will reduce the amount the tire rolls over, which will reduce edge wear. It will also reduce tire flex, which will lower temps. I can assure you 35psi hot is too low for an Evo X. Should be 38-40.


On a friends car, with 275/35r18 NT01's, we target 40f/39r, and that is a much stiffer tire.

xBoostx

It started happening to me when i started pushing the car and running time trails.

My sessions this weekend were no longer than 15 min, 3 of those. 6 30sec autocross sessions and 8 9sec speed stop sessions.

For what I do the stickiest tire is the best. But these tires get greasy with these heavy cars quicker than other.

Now that i think about it, you are right on the money. When I first used these tires i ran them 34psi cold and it got to about 38-40 hot. I didnt feel as much flex as i do with 34 psi, it felt great. When the tires got greasy after about 4-5 laps i thought it was cause the pressure was to high. But based on my current experiences as well as others it just the tires trait. 38-40psi would be the ticket for a car this heavy. Thanks for enlightening that for me.

Thats prob exactly why the tire is turning blue. I can feel the flex at this pressure.

I believe the suggestions by you guys should take care of me issues.

What do you guys think about the spring rates? My front end dives pretty hard. The car feel super good and compliant at the moment and I know these monster MCS shocks will handle it easily. My suspension guy recommends stiffer fronts. maybe 650-700lb (12k-13k) 100lb isnt a big jump which is why i think 700 would make more sense. I have ~2100s on the front end.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

You shouldn't need more spring for those tires. Try turning the dampers up.

xBoostx

I currently have 1 ways and it seems that to much rebound with these springs overload the front tires, i also hit the bump stops every once in while coming off curbs.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

The Ohlin's on the afore mentioned X do fine with 10k/10k springs. damping 4 clicks out form full stiff. Although the ohlins aren't a true one way. Clickers effect both comp and rebound.

xBoostx

The ohlins are valved for 10k max, so it makes sense you would be in that range. they are also lole 32 clicks i believe. These MCS can control up 1000lbs no prob and have 16 sweeps. So the valveing in comparison isnt fair. Theres a dude here that says his 14k square setup on MCS is pretty comfortable lol.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I'm just saying that with 10k springs, his car doesn't dive or roll excessively.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Most experienced EvO owners, who track, do not run an uprated FSB coupled w/track coil rates

Question: Is it possible that youre over sprung up front due to the up-rated FSB

xBoostx

It could be my RE71Rs paired with ST45's being making that much fowards force.

I honestly have no idea LOL. Im still learning and trying to dial in the suspension. I figured that the sway bar helps keep the opposite side tire on the ground when one tire is having most of the weight transferred towards it.

laloosh

How can you assure that? I run -3.8 camber and 29psi HOT in the front on my EvoX. No problem with roll over. This is my autox set up, not track day set up. IMO his pressures are already too high and the camber borderline low on the drivers side. What wheel width are these 275s on?


Regarding the uneven camber. Obviously make sure you check the knuckle connection by loosening it up and pushing the wheel in as far as you can. Make sure you leave 3-4mm towards the strut side. Could be a simple fix, but im not sure how "slotted" the MCS holes are.