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Since I'm now looking at the Hypergrams as well, Konig lists the 18x10.5 +25 as 1 lb less than the 18x9.5 +25. However given Razorlabs pics with Ohlins, it looks like at least a 3 mm spacer (and therefore extended studs) would be needed to give some breathing room with 275/35-18 NT01s (or Maxxis RC-1s?) on the inside. So is the weight savings is essentially cancelled out between the 9.5 vs 10.5? The pro of going with the 10.5 is better fitment with a variety of 275/35 tires, correct?
While it was mentioned that 5 mm spacer could be used with stock studs, since (my) primary use is at the track, is it worth the risk?
Take a look at my photo with the 5mm spacer, as my 18x10.5 are +30. So a hypergram in 18x10.5 +25 would have the clearance as shown in my 5mm spacer photo.
Take a look at my photo with the 5mm spacer, as my 18x10.5 are +30. So a hypergram in 18x10.5 +25 would have the clearance as shown in my 5mm spacer photo.
Ok, I thought those were the +27, but now looking back, +27 was the 18x9.5.
I read it wrong. My bad.
if you're going to be doing a lot of track, i would highly recommend ARP studs. the oem will stretch, i have seen many broken oem studs at the track. at least do the front, they are easy to do. i used a ball joint separator to get the old studs out and an old lug nuts to draw in the new studs.
if you're going to be doing a lot of track, i would highly recommend ARP studs. the oem will stretch, i have seen many broken oem studs at the track. at least do the front, they are easy to do. i used a ball joint separator to get the old studs out and an old lug nuts to draw in the new studs.
You've seen many evo studs break at the track? Feel like I haven't heard about this much here.
You should replace the stock studs with ARP's anyways. And a 275 NT01 should be on a 10 or 10.5" wheel. So, suck it up and get 10.5's
Originally Posted by honda-guy
if you're going to be doing a lot of track, i would highly recommend ARP studs. the oem will stretch, i have seen many broken oem studs at the track. at least do the front, they are easy to do. i used a ball joint separator to get the old studs out and an old lug nuts to draw in the new studs.
Well, I guess they'll have to be added to my new wheels and tires budget...
The thing is my car is still DE only, not TT, so I still use the OEM wheels around town. Obviously the OEM lugs won't work and I have yet to find open lugs that would. Yeah I know, excuses, excuses.
Although, I guess I could sell the OEM wheels and get a second set of Hypergrams for the street/rain...
Originally Posted by honda-guy
i used a ball joint separator to get the old studs out and an old lug nuts to draw in the new studs.
What? No banging on your hubs with a 3 lb sledge like all the YouTube videos?
^Lol I feel like a moron seeing how you used the BJ separator to push them into the hub as well. I used mine to pop out the old ones and used a lug nut to pull the new ones back in. But cant believe I didnt think of that granted my way worked fine as well, haha!
Also, in regards to lug nuts for the stock wheels as mentioned you can grab a set of Toyota lugs or if youre feeling dicey you can go at the OEM nuts with a cutoff wheel. Its a very thin little cap so I opted to just pop it off. Either way ARP studs is the right choice and when in doubt go wider with the wheels
I pounded mine out... Granted my hub was fully disassembled and the spindle was supported on blocks of wood so not pounding on the bearing. But I still pounded them out :P
I've got the ARPs but they are not the long ones and don't have enough extra length for spacers. Not a problem since I ordered a set of the Hypergrams in 18X9.5. The pic below is with some Eniei 18X8.5 that I got originally for my winter tires because I could not find lug nuts that worked with the ARPs and the stock BBS wheels.
