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I thought I would share this. This if from the back straight at Road Atlanta's. After turn 7 all the way down to 10a
Oil Mods.
Kiggly Racing HLA pressure regulator
Cosworth Crank scraper
2Q Canton Racing Accusump
OEM oil pan
English Racing - Underdrive Oil Pump Gear
Front Balance shaft eliminated with the rear one in and counter weight removed.
Head's oil returns passages have been cleaned out
Run 20W50 oil
Oil temps between 230-245
5th gear at 6400 RPM, the log are showing that I start to loose oil pressure. I've looked at older logs from last year and had the same results. On a long pull, the oil pump out flowing it's supply and isn't draining back fast enough. Good thing I have an Accsump to protect me. Time for a bigger oil pan with trap doors.
FYI - The log froze for just a moment and that's why you see a flat line.
Hit him up for a pan. I have his and seems to work well, maintains 70-75psi of oil pressure on high g right hand corners. Holds 7qt's, so you probably won't have the issue with draining the sump on long 5th gear pulls.
The real issue is likely Aeration of the oil more than there is a supply problem. That is one of the main reasons we developed the underdrive pulley at English racing.
The real issue is likely Aeration of the oil more than there is a supply problem. That is one of the main reasons we developed the underdrive pulley at English racing.
What brand etc. oil are you running?
Zack
I run Valvoline vr1 synthetic racing oil. I think it's supposed to guard against foaming.
I could always try a thinner oil, but at 230 f oil temps, the viscosity seems almost like a lighter weight oil.
Last edited by awdboosted; Sep 8, 2017 at 07:17 PM.
All performance oils have additives to help with air release (de-aeration). However they are not all created equal. Some of the oils we have had tested take up to 7 second during the standard test to release all air from the oil.
Joe Gibbs has a very good release, especially their euro/import line made for ethanol fuels etc.
I have been running Motul 300v 15w50 Motorcycle blend in my race cars for some time now, when I consulted with they explained that because of the sustained high rpm use of bikes they have much more air release capability. It did not completely fix the problems I was having in a 1/2 drag race revving over 9k, but it made a substantial difference.
That being said, you should definitely do the pan and windage tray....it helps with so much more than just aeration problems. PCV venting and windage can also have a huge effect on aeration, so be concious of that.
I had a pan built for me (a few others on this forum now have them as well). I used to see pressure drop during long, right handers @ my local track. No more.
It's over 6qts and has the trap doors, etc. I highly recommend going that route. the stock pan doesn't hold enough oil for any performance engine, much less a turbo car, IMO. The trap doors are a nice bit of insurance to have.
I had a pan built for me (a few others on this forum now have them as well). I used to see pressure drop during long, right handers @ my local track. No more.
It's over 6qts and has the trap doors, etc. I highly recommend going that route. the stock pan doesn't hold enough oil for any performance engine, much less a turbo car, IMO. The trap doors are a nice bit of insurance to have.
Sep 8, 2017, 01:16 PM
