Bee-Raddd

the norris kit is by far the most commonly used kit.

make sure u vent the catch can (i believe this is the air oil seperator) outside the car. we ended up taking the filter ontop off and placing a hose and running the hose down into the rear guard cause it was building fumes in the boot which was seeping into the car.

Personally we hooked up the oil cooler post filter pre engine cause it was convenient. but you can do this however u like.

Bee-Raddd

I did see pictures somewhere of a drysump being developed which the pump went inside where the original pan was going to be. ill see if i can hunt it down. looked pretty trick but duno if it ever got developed

kikiturbo

hks dry sump kit has the scavenge pump inside the sump and uses OE pump as a pressure stage. It is a very neat system. Only thing that is the problem is that it uses the oe pressure pump so it is not ideal for people that want to run crazy rpm

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Sounds perfect for the rest of us. I assume that's an out-dated item (I have yet to Google).


So.. Norris is seeming to be the go-to sump, for the time being?

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

I'd say Daily's is a step up from Norris's just on design and function. Plus it's made in Cali.

kikiturbo

this is the HKS one..

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Noted. I got a little lost in the thread LOL.

The only reason I assume the HKS unit would be "out-dated" is that HKS doesn't seem to support the platform like it used to (I just haven't heard much, in the past few years". Kinda like how awesome the Perrin PSRS was.

When I decide to go DS, I'll be looking for the most complete kit. If it's not the most reliable/functional, then I'll work my down the list. The less stuff I have to research and source, the better. Not that I mind... I'd just hate to spend a ton of money and time to have someone be like, "Dude! You should have used this instead!". Always my luck. LOL

flyingscot

iTrader: (2)

I just took a look at the Magnus site out of interest here http://magnusmotorsports.com/product...t-front-cover/
As you can see the front cover at the top of the page has the the OEM curved profile to fit the pan but the pic of the complete setup has a straight profile,perhaps they re-engineered their front cover to only work with their pan so folks cant by say the ARE kit and get the Magnus front cover

kikiturbo

khhm, If I was doing a kit I would run the dry sump pump from the aux belt sprocket.. that way it would be less failure prone from getting hit..

the only reason for curved oil pump housing (which is giving me nightmares when doing my oil sump) is to fit that sprocket..

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

Unless I'm reading you wrong, I'd think that it's run directly off the crank as running it off another pulley would have a greater chance of it slipping. The only exception I've seen of this is running it off one of the cams and that was because it was a low speed pump that couldn't handle high RPM.

Personally I'll more likely than not go with one of the Dailey kits. It's one of the most simple and best packaged solutions IMO.

kikiturbo

dry sump pumps are run from adiitional sprocket at the end of the crank. I am theorising about an idea of using the ballance shaft drive sprocket (still on the crank, which is unused on most performance builds) to drive the pump. This would keep overall engine length the same as stock and enable the drive belt to be kept covered easily...

at some point I wanted to fit a mechanical transfer pump inside the sump, and was looking for appropriate drive. Balance shaft belt is a good bet except for the sprocket being quite big and cant be smaller due to crank seal being inside it..

daley kit looks nice yes...

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I've been emailing Dailey for the past couple days. So far, I'm liking what I hear. They seem willing to offer plenty of support to get you up and running with something appropriate for your application.

Driv200

iTrader: (1)

I couldn't agree more. Been the best to work with thus far.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I really think the dry sump stuff is overkill unless the car is on slicks and/or has lots of aero. Typical APR wing and splitter with NT01's doesn't pull enough G. I mean, PA's car isn't even on a dry sump yet. And their motor failures weren't oil starvation. A good pan is good enough for what a lot of are doing.

kikiturbo

I think you really need to log the oil pressure... it is quite track dependant... On our track that we use the most we have 2 huge 180 left handers that are taken at 60 mph+ and last for ages... Had we run it in other direction I think we would have another dead EVO... This way I just have constant trouble with fueling out of that corner.. LOL