kaj

iTrader: (60)

My car is danged-near stock height. I lowered the car until the front and rear arms were level, then raised one end until I had the desired rake. I get no love from the car show peeps

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

This is mine with basically out of the box ohlins ride height settings. And the WL balljoint/tie rod. I'll take a more current picture but I havent lowered the car at all.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Heh, Well now that sounds just about right. I do know some other fast AX people that are also much higher than they use to be and got faster for it. I know some subcribe to the idea of CG first, geometry later, but Evos do different things front and rear that it densest really work that well. Roll axis with one above ground and one way below, now thats a funky setup

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Just for reference, that seam isnt the axis of pivots. The ball joint pivots just a couple mm's above that line.

Bee-Raddd

when the arm inverts is that when u start getting issues with positive camber or?

Bee-Raddd

so where do u recommend measuring from?

Ive been recently measuring from the back of the wheel arch where that pinch weld is. or front of the wheel arch for the back. due to having a flat bottom i cant get to the jack points where people normally use.

Is it maybe better to measure directly from the bottom of the ball joint?

Butt Dyno

iTrader: (10)

If you think you're going to do this you might want to do it sooner rather than later.. it will probably change a lot about how the car handles and you may have to reconsider a lot of things.

I dunno about the more expensive Tein stuff, but Tein is not typically known for having lots of travel and absorbing bumps well

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I dont really care about the location of the pinch welds or anything like that. I just measure ground to fender edge because its quick, easy, and consistent. As long as you know your tire diameter its easy enough to compare to other setups.

alpinaturbo

iTrader: (5)

Ground to fender, on track racing Evos, front and rear, will measure about 24.5".
On dual purpose about 25.5" front 25.25" rear perhaps.

I regretfully forgot ground to pinch weld, but dare to suggest that 25.5" front (and 25.25" rear) results in about 6.25" front and 6.5" rear ground to pinch weld distance.


FYI: RS rear LSD will induce more push, understeer. AYC is torque vectoring, so driving out understeer. Change in behaviuor with RS will be somewhat "negative", but maybe more "consistent". Maybe: in my experience AYC on car with settled chassis (properly set on stiffer coilovers etc) works super predictably and in the magic-way it was designed to, only on stock suspension AYC may surprise the "uninitiated driver". Nobody says Evo X is unpredictable at the edge, nobody: yet it has AYC! So its one of those "folk-tales" from the past, just like upgrading Evo Rod bolts..yet rod bolts never break but rods do!! And often from poor tuning, what is even worse.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

That's what I was aiming to avoid. The car handled fine, IMO, when It was on the stock Bilsteins so I wasn't too worried about needing the car lower. It would be great, but not at all costs.
As a bonus, I don't have to worry about parking lots because the lip clears curbs

DaWorstPlaya

iTrader: (31)

I can confirm, if your control arms are level in the front you are pretty much at stock ride height. My car was recently on stock suspension and I took a look at the front control arm angle and I noticed that it was parrallel to the ground already. Unless you have done the Whiteline RCK ball joint then you can go a bit lower and still have parallel arms.

Dallas is right, the front can do some wonky stuff with ride height on the Evo. But the general rule is lowering the front, lowers the front CG and reduces lateral load transfer. This increases grip. But it increases front body roll due to the increase in roll couple, which can negatively affect camber as you are on a crappy part of the camber curve due to the angle of the control arm and that can reduce grip. Then there is the wheel rate due to the springs, motion ratio and the sway bars. It's a complex multi matrix problem to solve. If you go too low you end up losing grip but there is a sweet spot and that depends on your setup.

Also the way I like to measure ride height is from the wheel center to the fender lip, that way it isn't affected by the diameter of the wheels.

Have fun.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

When I'm done with school , I'm going back to continue engineering courses. I'd love to be able to really dive into the suspension of my car ,in that way.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

But if you use pinch welds, wheel diameter won't matter; you're only measuring the difference between front and rear.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

That's definitely an important distinction to understand about roll centers. Raising the roll center alone doesn't increase grip, it may actually lower it if that effect is considered alone. Its the combo of geometry fix with camber curves and softening front bar with the reduced roll couple that gets you better grip and less dive. That and the ability to really push the low without compromising other things.

DaWorstPlaya

iTrader: (31)

Yes, that works too. It's a personal preference thing.

Dallas gets what I'm sayin' ... now stop posting on the forums and get my rear upper spring perches ready!