Be careful with the willwood bleeders. People that already he-man bleeders will snap those right off.

I even snapped one and I don't he-man bleeders.

 

I bleed my brakes a lot and have yet to strip a bleeder lol

The Wilwood bleeders kinda suck, the nipple is super small, can use the regular hose ends that come with vacuum bleeders on it.

 

Yeah, don't over tighen the willwood bleeder. The brass is soft and don't need a lot of torque to seal. The hose that came with my harbor freight vac bleeder worked fine. Also always have spare bleeder in the tool box.

 

hehe, You said small nipples.

Everywhere I see is $15-17ea x 8. I dunno. Maybe I'll just be more careful with my OEM bleeders. The Wilwoods would have been a "just in case" kinda thing, for me.

 

Same, I have yet to damage a brembo bleeder and I've bled them easily over a hundred times at this point.

 

Does anyone run without the rubber caps on their bleeders? I'm missing a couple and am debating either buying a few or just taking them all off. Kind of a pain to pull them off every time I bleed and the car only gets driven in the spring/summer so I woudln't think debris/corrosion would be a problem, but it's also not something I've really thought much about.

 

I leave them off. Half the time I'm bleeding brakes, prying them off with the screw drive is a pain, then I drop them and it takes 20 minutes to find the stupid things lol

 

I have a visual of Benny Hill music while you crawl around the car, mistaking OPR for your cap.
I leave mine on because I'm paranoid about junk getting in the, admittedly pretty-much-impossible-to-get-anything-into little holes. Mine are still looped to the bleeder, though, so I just put the wrench in the loop and pop them right off.
If the loops were to break, I admit I'd probably stop using them because prying them off the nipple is not something I want to deal with while trying to bleed in between sessions, in 100* heat.
Race cars seem to do fine with no little rubber caps, and I now they have a lot more crap flying around their calipers than I do.

 

If you use the right fluid you shouldn't need to bleed between sessions at all. If I had to do that I would probably never do track events again. Sounds like a pain in the ***.

 

It was my fault. I didn't expect to do any track days this year, so didn't swap fluid like I usually do. I had to bleed after my first session, but all was good after that. It was my first time braking from the top of 5th gear for a slow, 3rd gear hair pin. I was not prepared.
And yes, it sucked because I wasn't in a garage that day.

 

I have been using ATE Type 200, and during the smoking hot day 2 at ABCC I managed to boil in the calipers. A quick bleed between sessions is what it needed to be ready to go again. I bleed before every event and flush completely every season. So long story short, it can happen, but it is unusual. Haven't had this happen since road america.

 

i did a full flush of castrol srf yesterday - hoping to be good to go for the track day on saturday! i went back to OEM boots & seals with my vented stainless steel pistons from Racing Brake, hopefully that solves the leaking issue I had with the high temp seals. I've got TI shims, that should protect the OE boots & seals

 

speaking about overheating brakes.. I have been discussing with european carbotech dealer about him producing a set of pads with stainless backing plates. SS has much less thermal conductivity than mild steel and thick backing plates might serve as a nice isolator from pad heat. I even wanted to do a back to back test, bought a set of caliper oil thermocuples for that purpose, but with a switch to the new brake setup I am not sure about the purpose of spending extra money on an extra set of pads just to get some fame on the forums. However I am surprised no one tried that to my knowledge.
The pads for my new brakes will be experimental though and use SS backing plates..

 

Thick SS backing plates. I'm surprised nobody thought of that sooner.

 

I never said it can't happen. There is for sure better fluid than ATE as well. Prospeed RS683 and Castrol SRF would be two of them.

With Prospeed I can go a couple events without the "maintenance" bleed between events.