Solution for overheating brake
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Montreal, Quebec
Solution for overheating brake
I have major problem of overheating my front brake.
I do lapping with the car, FA coil over and 400hp.
I have have slot rotor with stock brembo caliper , DTC-60 pad and duct cooling.
I boil my gulf high temp oil, the dust cover of the caliper piston. I had to re drill the caliper holder thread and put helicoil because heat is so high that the aluminum of the caliper weld on the bolt. When I bleed the brake, I have to fight with the bleeder screw each time and strip the hexagon on it, a real pita.
And it’s not just one time, it’s always. My car is good but nothing to break lap record compare. I install duct cooling but doesn’t seems to help enough.
I bought a temperature gun and checked it last week, after the cooling lap, rear was at 180Celsius and front 360C!
I check with other lapper and after cooling lap, there were between 150-200C
I was wondering if I should remove the dust shield plate, maybe the duct throw heat but it can not get out of the shield and stay in the disc environment, but I don’t want to melt the abs sensor wire or else if I remove it...
Track guy, what are you’re setup or trick to control your heat?
I do lapping with the car, FA coil over and 400hp.
I have have slot rotor with stock brembo caliper , DTC-60 pad and duct cooling.
I boil my gulf high temp oil, the dust cover of the caliper piston. I had to re drill the caliper holder thread and put helicoil because heat is so high that the aluminum of the caliper weld on the bolt. When I bleed the brake, I have to fight with the bleeder screw each time and strip the hexagon on it, a real pita.
And it’s not just one time, it’s always. My car is good but nothing to break lap record compare. I install duct cooling but doesn’t seems to help enough.
I bought a temperature gun and checked it last week, after the cooling lap, rear was at 180Celsius and front 360C!
I check with other lapper and after cooling lap, there were between 150-200C
I was wondering if I should remove the dust shield plate, maybe the duct throw heat but it can not get out of the shield and stay in the disc environment, but I don’t want to melt the abs sensor wire or else if I remove it...
Track guy, what are you’re setup or trick to control your heat?
Remove dust shields. Use better pads. Not sure what fluid you are using but use SRF, Endless or ProSpeed.
Stop tightening your bleeder screws so much.
Also sounds like maybe your pistons are sticking and cause the high temp with pads dragging. You should probably rebuild the calipers with new seals.
Stop tightening your bleeder screws so much.
Also sounds like maybe your pistons are sticking and cause the high temp with pads dragging. You should probably rebuild the calipers with new seals.
360c doesn't sound bad at all... I'm definitely over 500c
I don't think I've had any issues with bleeders sticking, even when my brakes were going well over that and getting cooked. I have ti shims and ss pistons now, curious what my fluid temp is, as opposed to rotor temps
I don't think I've had any issues with bleeders sticking, even when my brakes were going well over that and getting cooked. I have ti shims and ss pistons now, curious what my fluid temp is, as opposed to rotor temps
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What ducting kit do you have? Seems all the Evo kits are 2" which from what I've heard is too restrictive with all the bends needed get ducted air in place. 2.5" or even dual 2.5" hoses seem to be what I see on more serious track cars with custom heat shields. That all gets pretty serious though, how about a couple hot laps and a cooldown lap?
Originally Posted by volcano
About 350 at wheels...
You really shouldn't be having a brake issue at 350whp. 360*C isn't even hot. My rotor usually come in at around 500*C AFTER a cool down lap.
Try better pads, raybestos ST43 or ST47 are the business. Good fluid as well, razorlab already mentioned the top 3. And rebuild your calipers.
Try better pads, raybestos ST43 or ST47 are the business. Good fluid as well, razorlab already mentioned the top 3. And rebuild your calipers.
not sure how you ran your brake duct into the back of the rotors. AMS brake duct kit has a very nice back plate that cover seal up the back pretty tight and force the air out through the vanes. i also remove the back splash shield. you'll melt the lower ball joint boot, so you'll have to make shield for that or wrap it with high temp shielding. as for the abs sensor, i wrapped it with aluminum foil tape. i had this setup on my car for over 7 years.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/pr...ml#post9338918
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/pr...l#post10704256
what tires are you running, if you're using R compound, they you probably should be using DTC70. also, not sure what your driving skill is, maybe you're using too much brake, dragging your brake too early. i've seen student over heat their brake from braking too early with light brake pressure and dragging.
if you bleed the brakes a lot, use willwood bleeder screw. it will save you from stripping the thread on the calipers. the brass part stay on the caliper, and the smaller metal bleeder turns. it's much easier to turn and takes less torque to tighten, and if you strip it, you wont damage the thread on the calipers.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/pr...ml#post9338918
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/pr...l#post10704256
what tires are you running, if you're using R compound, they you probably should be using DTC70. also, not sure what your driving skill is, maybe you're using too much brake, dragging your brake too early. i've seen student over heat their brake from braking too early with light brake pressure and dragging.
if you bleed the brakes a lot, use willwood bleeder screw. it will save you from stripping the thread on the calipers. the brass part stay on the caliper, and the smaller metal bleeder turns. it's much easier to turn and takes less torque to tighten, and if you strip it, you wont damage the thread on the calipers.
if you bleed the brakes a lot, use willwood bleeder screw. it will save you from stripping the thread on the calipers. the brass part stay on the caliper, and the smaller metal bleeder turns. it's much easier to turn and takes less torque to tighten, and if you strip it, you wont damage the thread on the calipers.
OP; I removed the dust covers and installed some home-made shields. I got the templates from a post on this forum. I then covered them in gold tape:
Last edited by kaj; Jun 29, 2018 at 04:03 PM.