Solution for overheating brake
speaking about overheating brakes.. I have been discussing with european carbotech dealer about him producing a set of pads with stainless backing plates. SS has much less thermal conductivity than mild steel and thick backing plates might serve as a nice isolator from pad heat. I even wanted to do a back to back test, bought a set of caliper oil thermocuples for that purpose, but with a switch to the new brake setup I am not sure about the purpose of spending extra money on an extra set of pads just to get some fame on the forums. However I am surprised no one tried that to my knowledge.
The pads for my new brakes will be experimental though and use SS backing plates..
The pads for my new brakes will be experimental though and use SS backing plates..
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,110
Likes: 320
From: Croatia
https://www.therma-shop.de/en/shop/s...idfuehler.html
you just screw it in instead of the brake bleeder... measures the temp of the fluid inside the caliper
you just screw it in instead of the brake bleeder... measures the temp of the fluid inside the caliper
Never heard of Prospeed before. Where do you buy it/price? I stayed away from Castrol SRF because its 3x the price per liter, for 10% higher dry and wet boiling points.
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 8
Likes: 2
From: Europe
Good set of pads, discs and fluid will do the trick most of the times.
Im running Front: Performance Friction v3 discs + PF .01 pads
Rear: Mtec slotted discs (regular cheapish discs) + EBC Yellowstuff pads
and Motul RBF660 fluid.
No ducting, only foglight delete.
Really good stopping power and so far no problems.
Agressive pads, whining a bit when cold, but not too much...and ofc lots of dust, but thats normal with carbonmetallic
Im running Front: Performance Friction v3 discs + PF .01 pads
Rear: Mtec slotted discs (regular cheapish discs) + EBC Yellowstuff pads
and Motul RBF660 fluid.
No ducting, only foglight delete.
Really good stopping power and so far no problems.
Agressive pads, whining a bit when cold, but not too much...and ofc lots of dust, but thats normal with carbonmetallic
I've got a used set of Evo X MR 2 piece front rotors $200.00 plus S&H. They are 350mm and lighter vs. stock 320mm. You'll need to pick up Evo X front calipers and all brake pads are interchangeable. PM me
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Montreal, Quebec
couple of week later, my problem is solve. I have bought a rebuild kit.
When I start the rebuild, I understand a lot of thing, those caliper were just scrap, some piston were seize in it, when I finally got them out, there's some of the new one that would not go in the hole even with C clamp.
I had see 2 places after removing the bleeder where the casting was crack in the bottom of the hole...
I bought a wilwood big brake kit with 2 pcs rotor and 6 piston.
When to the track last week, never seen since 2 years my brake temperature so reasonable. I get my heat gun out, I get after the cooling lap 170celcius vs 360C before.
When I start the rebuild, I understand a lot of thing, those caliper were just scrap, some piston were seize in it, when I finally got them out, there's some of the new one that would not go in the hole even with C clamp.
I had see 2 places after removing the bleeder where the casting was crack in the bottom of the hole...
I bought a wilwood big brake kit with 2 pcs rotor and 6 piston.
When to the track last week, never seen since 2 years my brake temperature so reasonable. I get my heat gun out, I get after the cooling lap 170celcius vs 360C before.
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