Spinning front, inside tire.
#3
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (2)
I would make sure nothing has shifted in the alignment.
I thought (correct me if I'm wrong) the OE front lsd was a torsen style and if that's the case you may be lifting the front inside side causing it to act like an open diff. See if anyone has photos of you mid corner.
Maybe consider some adjustable endlinks and brackets for your sway bars to tune them.
Also that tire change is playing a role. The 71s may have had enough grip to keep it from spinning before.
I'm not well versed on the acd stuff as my car is an 04 but it is stupid how well the front of my car bites with a wavetrac up front. Maybe your driver mod is necessitating a better front diff. (You may be going a fair bit faster than you used to)
I thought (correct me if I'm wrong) the OE front lsd was a torsen style and if that's the case you may be lifting the front inside side causing it to act like an open diff. See if anyone has photos of you mid corner.
Maybe consider some adjustable endlinks and brackets for your sway bars to tune them.
Also that tire change is playing a role. The 71s may have had enough grip to keep it from spinning before.
I'm not well versed on the acd stuff as my car is an 04 but it is stupid how well the front of my car bites with a wavetrac up front. Maybe your driver mod is necessitating a better front diff. (You may be going a fair bit faster than you used to)
Last edited by Ayoustin; Jun 3, 2018 at 02:53 PM.
#5
EvoM Guru
Hey Kaj i posted about this a month or 2 ago.
Got lots of good info on the thread i made. have a read through. what spring rates and stuff are u running?
I actually found dropping the rear end made a big difference to this. which is counter to every textbook in existance haha. but it did help.
Have you tried changing what setting you have the ACD on.
Got lots of good info on the thread i made. have a read through. what spring rates and stuff are u running?
I actually found dropping the rear end made a big difference to this. which is counter to every textbook in existance haha. but it did help.
Have you tried changing what setting you have the ACD on.
Trending Topics
#9
Maybe I'll swap my OEM diff plates back in and see how that works. I only have a couple thousand miles on this Weir kit. I'll be quite disappointed if it's the problem.
Thanks for the posts, by the way, guys.
#10
Turns out I was stupid and threw away my OEM clutchpack (It DID have 130k miles on it). Where can I get a replacement? I can't seem to find just the plates, anywhere.
**edit: here are the measurements from the FSM. I did not do this with the Weir plates. I didn't think it were necessary, since there is no way to make adjustments. Also, I see the OEM plates with different part numbers for different thicknesses. I have no way of knowing which I need.. so guess I'd need to buy an extra 4-8 plates just in case? That sucks. Or buy a set, measure, do the math, order accordingly. That's a lot of down time.
The site is not letting me attach to my edited post, so I'll add below:
**edit: here are the measurements from the FSM. I did not do this with the Weir plates. I didn't think it were necessary, since there is no way to make adjustments. Also, I see the OEM plates with different part numbers for different thicknesses. I have no way of knowing which I need.. so guess I'd need to buy an extra 4-8 plates just in case? That sucks. Or buy a set, measure, do the math, order accordingly. That's a lot of down time.
The site is not letting me attach to my edited post, so I'll add below:
Last edited by kaj; Jun 4, 2018 at 03:20 PM.
#12
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
disconnect the drive shaft from the rear diff then, yes, apply torque to the axle nut with one wheel held still (like by jacking the car up on one side only). a beam style torque wrench makes it easy. if you don't disconnect the drive shaft you'll get really high torque values because you'll engage the ramps (depending on which way you twist), but that isn't measuring preload.
#13
disconnect the drive shaft from the rear diff then, yes, apply torque to the axle nut with one wheel held still (like by jacking the car up on one side only). a beam style torque wrench makes it easy. if you don't disconnect the drive shaft you'll get really high torque values because you'll engage the ramps (depending on which way you twist), but that isn't measuring preload.
#14
EvoM Guru
you need to get somebody to watch from outside the car and determine if its the front or rear wheels that pick up. evos are known to pick up the inside rear. ive never heard of the inside front picking up tho.
And when i said lower the rear i meant go negative rake. sounds stupid. but it worked for me. i was recommended it by a WTAC open class top 5 car owner. Owns fastest time attack car here in NZ and i was like get outta town ur crazy n he was like na honestly try it and boom the rear inside wheel pick up almost disapeared.
And when i said lower the rear i meant go negative rake. sounds stupid. but it worked for me. i was recommended it by a WTAC open class top 5 car owner. Owns fastest time attack car here in NZ and i was like get outta town ur crazy n he was like na honestly try it and boom the rear inside wheel pick up almost disapeared.
#15
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by kaj
What should the measurement be?