Shorter spring has shorter amount of possible compression before it binds on itself, so you have to be careful there. Rear doesn't carry that much overall weight, so that might not be an issue there. But, I ran into this with 6" long springs on 2G DSM and had to go to at least 7" (went to 8" just to be safe) to avoid this problem.

 

The easiest way to figure out whether you need helpers or not is to install them on your car without them and set the correct corner height. Then, jack up that corner to get a full extension on that shock (you might need to disconnect your sway bar end link for a full drop or just take the shock out). Once at the full extension, if you main spring is firm in its place and it doesn't move, you don't need helpers. If spring is loose and moves around, you need them there. And, that is pretty much the only function of those helpers that I know of.

 

So I tested one side with the 1 inch fortune auto bump stop. So without the stop there is 4.5 inches of stroke, with the bumpstop 3.5 inches. I was able to raise the wheel all the way to the bump stop without the tire rubbing on anything. Also turned the wheel all the way one direction where if I were turning and the car was leaning from the weight transfer there was surprising no rubbing.

This is with 265tire 9.5 wheels. If I were to go wider tires then I would start running into rubbing problems.

So my next question/next step. Should I just use the professional awesome bump stops and cut em down to 1.5 or 2 inches? The bumpstops would then engage sooner but at a more progressive rate compared to if I hit the FA bumpstops.

Then question about the professional awesome bumpstops. If the bumpstops were to be engaged, whats the expected behavior of the handling wise since the rates would shoot up?

 

If I were you, I would stay away from bumpstops any way I could. They introduce additional spring rates in a way that is hard to determine and the only way those were to be used successfully is when official ruling doesn't allow change in spring rates, but does allow any bump stops. Since you have a full freedom to use any spring rates, you should find the right ones and not ever engage those bump stops.

 

There are some uses for bump stops but that gets into some other weirdness that I dont always agree with. MIata guys seem to love tuning with bumpstops but Id rather have a consistent linear spring to tune around. Other group I see using them a lot is the high aero track cars. Seems when you get enough aero load that it dominates mechanical grip, then its more important to keep ground to car gap/angle.

For us though, having the bump stop ever come into play during a normal corner just seems like a great way to have an immediate loss in traction.

 

One more thing to add here...your shock body length is dictating how low you can drop your car on that corner. If those are too long, you wouldn't be able to do much with them.

 

Yeah I wouldnt factor in the bump stops that will disintegrate in no time. you will destroy a few sets of fender liners until you get up to 15k springs

 

Looks like you can’t use the oem camber bolts for the professional awesome racing camber locks. I can use one of the locks on the end that doesn’t have the hump on the camber bolt.

 

Make sure that perch to perch height at full compression is greater than your coil bind height for the spring (if you're using a supplied spring that doesn't have this published the rule of thumb is coil bind height is half of the free length).

I would run the Pro Awe bumps over the supplied Fortune ones. The Fortune ones are hard *** rubber that has a very high spring rate right off the bat, the PA bumps are foam and have a very progressive rate that starts pretty low, they will squish a fair bit before they really add considerable spring rate. Pro Awe has a spring rate curve published for them. I would not trim them shorter unless it causes you issues running them at full length.

 

I spoke to the professional awesome racing person the other day about cutting em. TLDR I cut em down to 1 1/2 inches and stuff is installed. Just have to tighten it all down and look into brackets/clips for the external reservoir line and canister. Also got the bigger super pro bushing swapped out with a new one since my other one cracked.

 

So I’m in the middle of adjusting my ride height and it’s pretty annoying lol. Whenever I make a change, put tire back on, drop car and check height, I get one number of measurement. Bouncing on the corner seems to lower the ride height give or a take a 1/8-1/4 of an inch. But if I jack the other side of the car opposite of what I just adjusted. When I put the car back down, the adjusted side is all of a sudden showing 1/2 higher?

Any words of wisdom when doing this? Should I just shoot for a ballpark range for the height? Also what’s a good rule of thumb on rake measuring from the sills? Mine currently is about even. Should the fronts be a little higher?

 

you should roll the car. or put plywood and plastic bags so you can turn the wheels and have them settle. the tires are gripping the surface when you just lift one side. on the rears i just jackup the controlarms and then drop it . have jacks for left and right

 

We had used two aluminum plates with a dip of synthetic oil between them and worked pretty good. The platform needed to be leveled prior to this adjustment, but once it was set, it was really easy to adjust all of it

 

It seemed like driving the car back and forth worked a lot better than bouncing on the car like a pogo stick lol.

 

+1 for grease plates. I haven't tried oil because the grease stays put better. Easy and cheap enough to make your own set.