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@kyoo good job introducing the evo to porsche guys
its quite easy to beat the P-club in our local giant go-kart track because there's barely any room to spin out. I've seen a brand new 911 declared total loss
hard to tell but it's not too crazy. a little lower in the rear and not too crazy up front. it's actually lifted a little more than others cuz I got the street version of Dallas 's front upright, due to knowing it'd be driven in NYC streets. with the race version, I'd have to get it way too low
It's been on my list to make an as straightforward as possible setting list for the locks (as well as having them engraved). I've not been able to come up with a simple form to do it yet but I can share what I've told others who've inquired about itB
Basically there are 7 settings. Holes A and B for which hole the bolt goes through, sides 1-7 and the number will always face outboard if you're looking at the rearward lock (the one that you would see if you looked towards the front of the car from the rear). The receiving groove in the subframe is taller than the locks so the locks themselves move up and down in the groove as different positions are used, in some cases the locks may need to be flipped if you run out of space at the top of the subframe groove but the corresponding number will remain on the same side.
5A = most negative camber (bolt should be as far outward in the slot of the subframe as it can go)
2B = next step positive
7B = next step positive
3A = this the center position
3B = next step positive
6B = next step positive
1A = most positive camber (bolt should be as far inboard in the slot of the subframe as it can go)
Technically there are more positions than those 7 but they are extremely close to some of the positions listed above so I don't advertise them because it can get confusing really quickly.
yeah not by any means a complaint, but that is a handy diagram
hard to tell but it's not too crazy. a little lower in the rear and not too crazy up front. it's actually lifted a little more than others cuz I got the street version of Dallas 's front upright, due to knowing it'd be driven in NYC streets. with the race version, I'd have to get it way too low
front control arm angle is really the thing to be looking at. if they're sloping upwards towards the chassis (meaning lower ball joint is lower than inboard chassis joint) it is going to be pretty pushy.
front control arm angle is really the thing to be looking at. if they're sloping upwards towards the chassis (meaning lower ball joint is lower than inboard chassis joint) it is going to be pretty pushy.
yeah not the case here I don't think. only push I got at the last event was pure physics
