Notices
Motor Sports If you like rallying, road racing, autoxing, or track events, then this is the spot for you.

Post your competition suspension set ups here!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Sep 21, 2018, 06:19 AM
  #106  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
 
CaptainSquirts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Brandon, Florida
Posts: 773
Received 54 Likes on 51 Posts
On another note. I installed the cusco front sway bar bracket(using stock fsb) and it def felt like a positive, very neutral handling. It's too early to have an overall impression but from my last autocross with it I believe it was a net positive since it was a pretty miata friendly tight course and I placed pretty well. Am running 10/12.5k springs and I still got a ton of front body roll and from what everyone always says, that adding more front bar/spring would cause more understeer. But I never really looked at bodyroll and camber curve so I'm not 100% sure but I think having a little less body roll is keeping the camber a little more happy with the little less of roll the bracket is providing. Now I'm thinking about putting 11k springs up front since I have a set of those just sitting in the garage to get a tiny bit less body roll.
Old Sep 21, 2018, 08:47 AM
  #107  
kaj
EvoM Community Team Leader
iTrader: (60)
 
kaj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 13,620
Received 812 Likes on 677 Posts
Originally Posted by CaptainSquirts
On another note. I installed the cusco front sway bar bracket(using stock fsb) and it def felt like a positive, very neutral handling. It's too early to have an overall impression but from my last autocross with it I believe it was a net positive since it was a pretty miata friendly tight course and I placed pretty well. Am running 10/12.5k springs and I still got a ton of front body roll and from what everyone always says, that adding more front bar/spring would cause more understeer. But I never really looked at bodyroll and camber curve so I'm not 100% sure but I think having a little less body roll is keeping the camber a little more happy with the little less of roll the bracket is providing. Now I'm thinking about putting 11k springs up front since I have a set of those just sitting in the garage to get a tiny bit less body roll.
I used to run 8k/10k springs and the car handled well. I put 9k up front and now the car is more prone to understeer. I'm not a fan. Probably going back to 8k up front (I don't think the valving on the rear will handle 11k.). If I'm not imagining things ,then I can see how more front bar would promote understeer.
Also, I made adjustable endlinks for my sway bars. It seemed to make the car a bit more stable.
Old Sep 21, 2018, 09:01 AM
  #108  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
 
Dallas J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Portland, Or
Posts: 5,804
Received 723 Likes on 566 Posts
Just by conventional setup wisdom, any added front bias will shift the portion of total weight transfer forward so it should absolutely increase understeer unless you have some pretty drastic geometry issues (ala stock class cars or super low evos). If you go up in front spring should probably be matched in rear spring or bar which you can pretty well treat the same for balance.
Old Sep 21, 2018, 12:30 PM
  #109  
kaj
EvoM Community Team Leader
iTrader: (60)
 
kaj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 13,620
Received 812 Likes on 677 Posts
Originally Posted by Dallas J
Just by conventional setup wisdom, any added front bias will shift the portion of total weight transfer forward so it should absolutely increase understeer unless you have some pretty drastic geometry issues (ala stock class cars or super low evos). If you go up in front spring should probably be matched in rear spring or bar which you can pretty well treat the same for balance.
I was thinking the same. I went up in the front because I was just getting so much roll and dive, I wanted to see what would happen. I didn't think I'd notice such a drastic change. I think I'll swap the 11s to the rear and see if the dampening holds up. If not, I'll drop back down to 8/10 until I do a shock rebuild, ooooor maybe just up the rear sway bar a notch (easiest and free )
Old Sep 21, 2018, 01:24 PM
  #110  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
 
Dallas J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Portland, Or
Posts: 5,804
Received 723 Likes on 566 Posts
Just remember, if you already lifting a tire more bar will have zero effect there. Though it will effect throttle oversteer.
Old Sep 21, 2018, 01:34 PM
  #111  
kaj
EvoM Community Team Leader
iTrader: (60)
 
kaj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 13,620
Received 812 Likes on 677 Posts
Originally Posted by Dallas J
Just remember, if you already lifting a tire more bar will have zero effect there. Though it will effect throttle oversteer.
That's kinda my plan. The car is really neutral until I get on the gas... then it just wants so push. I used to be able to steer with the throttle and miss it because the car was faster that way. Right now I'm spending too much time peddling until the car straightens out.
On a side note: during the last event I attended I wore the left rear WAAAAAAAAAAAAY more than the right. I think I was spinning it on the series of tight L-hand turns. The RR looks almost new. Damn it.
Old Sep 21, 2018, 01:45 PM
  #112  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
 
Dallas J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Portland, Or
Posts: 5,804
Received 723 Likes on 566 Posts
You know I sorta get that feeling where it sometimes wants to push or sometimes wants to kick back out on heavy throttle. In my case it really seems to push if I try to get on the throttle later but faster, and rotates better if Im in the throttle back near apex and just keeping enough throttle for what the corner can take. So by exit im full throttle but Ive worked up to it.

Not sure that makes too much sense typing it, but it at least prevents the throttle push moments.
Old Sep 21, 2018, 02:05 PM
  #113  
kaj
EvoM Community Team Leader
iTrader: (60)
 
kaj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 13,620
Received 812 Likes on 677 Posts
Originally Posted by Dallas J
You know I sorta get that feeling where it sometimes wants to push or sometimes wants to kick back out on heavy throttle. In my case it really seems to push if I try to get on the throttle later but faster, and rotates better if Im in the throttle back near apex and just keeping enough throttle for what the corner can take. So by exit im full throttle but Ive worked up to it.

Not sure that makes too much sense typing it, but it at least prevents the throttle push moments.
Yeah, that makes sense. If we get on it harder, later, we're rapidly transferring the weight and probably when the front tires are working harder. I'll try both and compare notes. I think I just got so spoiled being able to push the rear out any time I wanted (HTA71 and FP Green).
Old Sep 21, 2018, 02:10 PM
  #114  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
 
Dallas J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Portland, Or
Posts: 5,804
Received 723 Likes on 566 Posts
At Solo Nats when I was helping KJ figure out the driving style the car liked that was something we talked about quite a bit. He had the same issue with tight corner exits was causing a lot of pushing instead of front biting and back moving. He's of course use to something waaay different (A-mod) but I'd come out of same corner with back end swinging.

He's a great driver though so he was able to get it figured out on the real courses .
The following users liked this post:
kaj (Sep 21, 2018)
Old Nov 28, 2018, 12:18 PM
  #115  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
 
kyoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: US
Posts: 10,542
Received 233 Likes on 209 Posts
fun, i missed this!
  • ohlins dfv, 8k/10k, cirodesign caster/camber coilovers
  • superpro lca bushing for added caster, rear trailing arm bushing, roll center adjuster, precision steering kit
  • tanabe hollow fsb in front, whiteline 24mm in rear on full stiff, just swapped to 26mm whiteline, haven't tried it out yet
  • english racing acd on "2/3" aggressive (full aggressive gave me 3 lights), set to most aggressive (loose) for racing
  • cusco 1.5-way rear, swapping to os giken
  • alignment: -3.3, -1.9, ~5 degrees of caster and 0 toe
usage: hpdes, autox
happiness: medium, car is still too pushy for me, hence the setup changes

LGTD, car rotating off throttle or on hard throttle but pushing on maintenance I think is just the nature of a salisbury diff + 60/40 weight, right?
Old Dec 25, 2018, 05:27 PM
  #116  
Newbie
 
Crankwalker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Bedford, VA
Posts: 52
Received 3 Likes on 1 Post
Originally Posted by EVO8LTW


The nt03 comes in +40, so you could run them with a 25mm spacer in front and a 5mm spacer in the rear. My 18s are in the closet right now, but I’m pretty happy with the Wedsport TC105N in 18x9.5 +35, except the cost of 18” tires. For less money (and more weight), there is also the 5zigen fn01rc in 18x9.5 +35 (I had those back in 2005-2006). Both of those have good caliper clearance. I’m sticking with using my 17x9.5 +38 nt03s for now because 17” tires are so much cheaper and I’d rather work on driving/suspension/aero first.
Are you running the 18x9.5 +35 TC105Ns with no spacers? And what size tires are you running if you don't mind telling? I'm about to pick up a set but no one can actually confirm if they'll fit...
Old Dec 25, 2018, 08:36 PM
  #117  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (41)
 
EVO8LTW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 4,603
Received 95 Likes on 82 Posts
Originally Posted by Crankwalker
Are you running the 18x9.5 +35 TC105Ns with no spacers? And what size tires are you running if you don't mind telling? I'm about to pick up a set but no one can actually confirm if they'll fit...
I have Ohlins Flag coilovers, which take up inner clearance. I ran 15mm spacers up front with tires as wide as a 285 30 18. You may be able to use less spacer with other coilovers.
Old Dec 25, 2018, 09:37 PM
  #118  
Newbie
 
Crankwalker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Bedford, VA
Posts: 52
Received 3 Likes on 1 Post
Originally Posted by EVO8LTW


I have Ohlins Flag coilovers, which take up inner clearance. I ran 15mm spacers up front with tires as wide as a 285 30 18. You may be able to use less spacer with other coilovers.
I'm currently still on stock struts with Hotchkis springs, do you think the spacer would still be needed with a 265/35?

I've decided between the 18x9.5 +35 or the 18x9 +32. For now intentions are to just run the 265s. But being the price of the wheels are the same, if the extra half an inch would be worth it, I'd rather go with the wider option....

Last edited by Crankwalker; Dec 25, 2018 at 10:08 PM.
Old Dec 26, 2018, 03:46 AM
  #119  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (41)
 
EVO8LTW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 4,603
Received 95 Likes on 82 Posts
Originally Posted by Crankwalker
I'm currently still on stock struts with Hotchkis springs, do you think the spacer would still be needed with a 265/35?

I've decided between the 18x9.5 +35 or the 18x9 +32. For now intentions are to just run the 265s. But being the price of the wheels are the same, if the extra half an inch would be worth it, I'd rather go with the wider option....
i have no idea about fitment with stock struts.
Old Dec 26, 2018, 07:04 AM
  #120  
Newbie
 
Crankwalker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Bedford, VA
Posts: 52
Received 3 Likes on 1 Post
Originally Posted by EVO8LTW


i have no idea about fitment with stock struts.
I don't plan on staying with stock struts, just what's on the car currently. If you were only running 265s do you think you could clear without spacers? Also does the back clear everything fine?


Quick Reply: Post your competition suspension set ups here!



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:45 AM.