It's for autocross. I don't really want to go stiffer on the rear (for comfort reasons). I know if I want the best results I need to go stiffer springs front and rear but it's a DD as well so I'm trying to find a compromise. If the fsb/fsb bracket would be an overall improvement then I would go that route. If that change itself would make the vehicle slower at the limits, then I wouldn't go that route and try to think of another method or just not make any changes/or just add more camber(at -3.5 already and I still get tire roll over if i'm under 40 psi).

 

If you are trying to keep the car comfortable, you may be stuck with softer springs and stiffer bars.
FWIW, I run 9k front and 10k rear springs, stock front sway bar ,and 25mm rear sway bar, and my car does everything pretty well.
I used to get a lot of FTDs at the local AutoX and my lap times weren't too bad ,either.
Unless you are trying to shave off .10s of a second or win a national championship, you actually have a lot of wiggle room. Most of my improvements were made by adjusting my driving to match car's ability, but that's another topic.
How much tire roll are you having? Because -3.5 is crazy, especially with near 40psi. I'm at 2.8-2.9 and run in the low to mid 30s, IIRC.

 

-3.5 is probably in the right ball park I'd say. Depends on how low you are also, but thats a good starting point. Less than 3deg I would expect to get a pretty hot outer edge but i can understand the compromise for street car.

Might check Jimmy's thread here (username Jim... something). He has an STU thread and has been real competitive. I dont recall what camber he runs, but I would start with something around what he's settled on.

 

I'm around -3.4 for an STU build. My front ride height isn't lowered much at all. Lower arms are almost exactly parallel with the ground.

In the past I DD-ed the car about 8K miles per year with this alignment. There was a little bit of inside shoulder wear from the camber, but I was doing 150-200 autocross runs a year at the same time. Usually the AX would wear the tires out before the inner shoulder camber wear became relevant. YMMV if you have more street miles and fewer AX runs.

 

What do you guys think about rear tire alignment. I have a TRE 12plate, all rear WL bushings, and ohlins with 14k springs.

I was thinking about 1.75 camber and 0 toe?

 

More camber

 

What rear sway bar do you have? Relative stiffness of the rear swaybar will make a big difference.

For autocross, 1.75 rear camber is not bad if you want rotation. At lower autox speeds you don't want too much rear camber because it's nice to unstick the rear end for rotation.

For track use, I prefer 2.0 - 2.2 in the rear. With a Hotchkiss RSB on full stiff and 2.1 rear camber, I still have a slight tendency toward oversteer on track in certain situations.

 

I know a good rule of thumb is front arms parallel at the least and probably a good 0.5 inch lower in the rear compared to the fronts. Is there a negative lets say being at a 1-2 inch difference being higher in the fronts compared to the rears?

Also I currently have an 8 inch 10k spring on my fronts. They will fully compress at 2856 lbs. I have a set of 11k springs but are 7 inches tall and they will fully compress at 2648 pounds. So can I run the 11k springs without running into issues with the springs fully compressing?

My corner weights(me in it) are...
Front Driver - 1069
Front passenger - 1030
Rear Driver - 683
Rear Passenger - 646

 

 

I meant coil bind. Just trying to make sure the coil doesn't bind.

 

I have the WL rear sway bar. Was considering medium stiffness given my spring rates. Guess 2.0 rear camber would be a good starting point, car is track focused and I've never done an autox.

 

There are 3 WL rear bars. 22, 24, and 26mm. 24mm is the sweet spot bar IMO, but if you have the 22mm bar it may be too light.

 

I've got the 24mm

 

So from this website "http://teinusa-blog.com/superpro-roll-center-adjusters/" they install super pro extended ball joints on an evo x(says works for 8, 9 and x) and that balljoint is huge!(link below for the image) Way taller than the Whiteline one. I looked around on the super pro website and they only sell a kit thats pretty much the same as the whitelines RCA kit "https://superpro.suspension.parts/trc0001". Does anyone know if super pro still sells this kind of ball joint? Seems like a way better alternative than trying to go some aftermarket control arm route for some roll center fixing.

http://teinusa-blog.com/wp-content/u...all-Joints.jpg
http://teinusa-blog.com/wp-content/u...on-the-car.jpg

 

Lol, thats basically a fake roll center adjustment. It doesnt matter how long they make that spacer portion, the only part that matters is distance to the pivot, which doesnt look really that long here. Angle of the control arm is totally irrelevant, only the angle of the line between the pivot points. There was a brand, I think it was like moonface or something, that had a 10mm longer ball joint but it bent for a few people. I cant speak to the materials used on it, but its been suggested to avoid that one.

The WL ball joint only corrects 5mm, which is something but its also pretty much nothing . I definitely feel going too long on the ball joint post is both dangerous and adding flex to the system.