I'd probably end up getting oil on my autox tires. maybe dishsoap would better for me I normally just use 2 sheets of paper or sheetmetal, i have vinyl tiled floors

 

Yea bouncing doesnt really work on its own need to bounce and then roll back and forth a few times to allow the suspension to settle.

Another trick is if you jack off the diff or something so both wheels are in the air you can let the jack down quickly and that is your bounce and then you just need to roll forward and back.

If your doing toe settings then you get 2 sheets of aluminium with grease or oil between them and put them under each wheel so the wheel can toe without gripping.

 

Whoa whoa whoa this is a family forum.

 

Maybe thats why mine never break

 

If you have flat, hard plates then putting salt between them works okay. Much easier to clean up.

 

First autocross on new coilovers going from Fortune 510s to the FA pro 2 way. Daily driving even though i have higher spring rates, it handles dips better than my 510s. I use to get very bouncy, like 3 or 4 good bounces on rail roads. Now it seems to stop the pogo a nice bit earlier. Having compression high there is def more road noise on certain pavement, but since it helps a ton on the rear pogoing I like it more. Still haven’t played around enough, I’ve been playing the midish range on the settings mostly.

I liked my previous rates more than the current. I was 10/12.5k springs and now on 12/14k. At mid turn, there is less oversteer/rear rotation.. The initial turn in is way better. It made me feel more confident in slaloms and overall. Just if it had a little more mid corner rear rotation, I would then feel like it was perfect range at corner entry and mid/power outing corners. May just go with a 16k in the rear but I’ll still play with 12k/164 in the little meantime.

I was thinking, my front has that adjustable sway bar bracket and it’s at the stiffer rate. Would going on a lower rate bolt would help? Also my rear sway bar is at the softest setting, I still have a middle and hard setting, would that make me lose grip overall(noob suspension guy here)?

 

I would definitely run the front bar soft and rear bar stiff.

 

You went from 25% stiffer in the rear to only 16% stiffer in the rear. That's a large shift in balance. I would definitely soften the front bar like Dallas said, and depending what the rear bar is set to, go one position stiffer.

 

16% stiffer in the rear just isnt nearly enough. I always recommend starting around 50% stiffer. If its loose add camber, if its still loose reduce toe.

 

Toe is an interesting thing... Toe in will make it rotate off throttle, but help straighten the car on throttle. Definitely a happy medium to be found there.

Agree on 16% not being enough for sure. My car was 33% stiffer in the rear. Stock front sway bar, rear bar was a whiteline 24 on full stiff.

 

Thanks for the input, I set the front sway bar bracket to the original spot and made the rear stiffer. Lets see how it do next month!

 

I commented before about how my evo was a bit understeer-y and underwhelming post major changes, including ssb front and rear knuckles, ap racing 8350's, and a semi-new setup of 255/45-17 re71rs --

About 3 weeks ago, i drove the evo in a "track-cross" style event at lime rock park's "proving grounds" - a sort of mini-track/oversized go kart course. most of the course was able to be taken in 2nd, with a trip to 3rd on one straight. The car felt pretty damn great. The feeling of brutal understeer from the autocross was nowhere to be found, and honestly the car felt absolutely perfect for the majority of the event. I had been debating setting the rsb (WL 27mm) from soft to medium, but settled on leaving it at soft after driving the car a few laps.

The only time it really started pushing was when I overcooked the car trying to chase a 992 gt3. I was just about following the car, it was gaining maybe a few tenths per lap on me. I was bummed because this was a timed competition event, no pax, winner-take-all sort of deal. Turned out when I was chasing the gt3, it was the instructor driving the car - both of them being surprised in turn that the white sedan behind them was keeping up.

The brakes felt decent too - without the insane stop and go of an autocross, braking at this event felt quite adequate, with the DS2500s being more than up for the task. I got 1st at the event, beating the aforementioned gt3 with the actual owner in the car and a couple of other nice rides. Apparently at this event, if you run under a 45 you qualify for some fall shootout event, and I ran a 44.2.

In retrospect, for a course like that, I think the car would have been happier with the RSB on the medium setting - but it felt good enough for me to make a judgment call to leave the car alone at the event. I think for a full-sized track, the car is going to be perfect with the RSB on soft (less tight 2nd gear turns). I do want to continue improving the grip, because there were certain spots where I was really disappointed. One particular right hander hard-load acceleration zone really had the tires howling, and only by slowing up the turn did I get full grip acceleration out of the corner. I thought this miraculous carbon-hybrid ATS diff would just propel me forward, lack of grip be damned, but that didn't really feel like the case. Other than that, I just have minor wants in terms of improving how the car felt in turns, and desire for a little more "rear-bias" coming out of corners.

Overall though, really happy with how the car felt given the autocross before, and I must have done something right to beat everyone at the event and run under the 45. Looking forward to getting back into more events in the northeast

Setup details:
255/45-17 RE71RS
8k/12k springs on custom-valved Ohlins DFVs
stock FSB, WL 27mm RSB on soft
SSB front and rear knuckles
-3.5 front camber, 0 toe front, ~5.5 degrees of caster
-3.5 rear camber, 0 toe rear (it's just a pain to change out the camber using the wunderladen camber locks, I don't know which rotation angle is going to change how much degrees of camber, but tire wear looked good so I think I'm okay to leave it)
ATS CH 1-way front diff, ATS CH 1.5-way rear diff, ER ACD tune-lite on "Tarmac"
Stock 6spd, standard ratios, stock t-case, flex-tuned with ~65% ethanol on that tank, making ~350hp

a little more on the rear camber locks - I basically put them at the maxed out setting, thinking on stock arms etc the rear camber would be -3 at the most. -3.5 in the rear is good when you're running a setup for it with maybe -4.5 in the front, but for my street setup I do want to back it down. It's just that the way it works, it's a guessing game as to what orientation spits out how much camber. That said, as mentioned the tire wear in the rear looked good so is there any reason to change it other than to change balance/feel?

 

Thats the amazingness of well setup Evos. 350hp on 255 tires keeping up with 500hp GT3s when its not all out speed needed to win.

 

It's been on my list to make an as straightforward as possible setting list for the locks (as well as having them engraved). I've not been able to come up with a simple form to do it yet but I can share what I've told others who've inquired about itB

Basically there are 7 settings. Holes A and B for which hole the bolt goes through, sides 1-7 and the number will always face outboard if you're looking at the rearward lock (the one that you would see if you looked towards the front of the car from the rear). The receiving groove in the subframe is taller than the locks so the locks themselves move up and down in the groove as different positions are used, in some cases the locks may need to be flipped if you run out of space at the top of the subframe groove but the corresponding number will remain on the same side.



5A = most negative camber (bolt should be as far outward in the slot of the subframe as it can go)
2B = next step positive
7B = next step positive
3A = this the center position
3B = next step positive
6B = next step positive
1A = most positive camber (bolt should be as far inboard in the slot of the subframe as it can go)

Technically there are more positions than those 7 but they are extremely close to some of the positions listed above so I don't advertise them because it can get confusing really quickly.

 

I didn't see any mention of ride height but running the front too high (or too low, but that's not really possible with SSB uprights) can induce understeer on an otherwise good setup.