Pretty much thinking in the same terms. The Aero6 seems to be a good successor in the WS6 line which I had good success with on my SCCA SM Talon setup through TCE. They already have a radial mount spec for our hubs for the Superlites. Really its just manufacturing the right mount spacing and with the right radial-spacer to orient the caliper at the right distance from center of hub.

Aero6 Tech Sheet



If you are interested in trying to mock some up, let me know. I'd be game to help out and the Evo is already up on jack stands for the winter.

The other nice thing about going this route is they have a caliper for the rear that would be good enough match that includes parking brake support.

 

Well I guess I should've looked at this thread earlier . Dallas and I have been bouncing ideas off each other last night and this morning. We think there's a good chance we can come up with a design that would use the Aero6 with different rotor sizes which would allow guys who want to stay on 17" wheels to have their cake and eat it too.

Here's the rundown of the Aero6 vs the CTS option we were exploring:
- Upfront cost would be similar
- Stiffer/radial mount caliper
- Cheaper on consumables
- All rotor rings would use the same center hat so upgrading to a larger rotor would just be a matter of buying new friction rings and spacers to push the caliper further out
- Everything is still OTS parts except the caliper spacers and the center hat
- Potentially swapping the caliper around to be a trailing setup to get a hair better weight distribution and get the brake setup behind the axle



Yes the Aero6 seems like the right guy for the job. I'm not fully convinced we need more rear brake. We are already reducing the forward brake bias by using smaller pistons in the Aero6. Small adjustments could be done by using different compounds in the rear vs front.

 

Sounds like a winning combo if we can get there. Pretty much what I was looking for.

True enough. I'd monkey around with pad options first.

 

Now it's gotten interesting. Moving the front caliper to 9'oclock and the rear (also a wilwood with no dust seal) to 3'oclock and I start to get all fuzzy inside This is what most custom track cars use when they have the choice.

 

How do you route the air duct around the half shaft if the caliper is in the rear?

 

I dont even know if the brake will fit with the steering arm back there, but my thought is the duct has lots of room on the front side at that point. With the brake moved though, I think the ABS sensor has to move to the front at least.

 

it will not fit because of the steering arm. Better to leave it at 9 o clock then

 

Is it even worth it to run air ducting to the rear calipers? The parking brake on the Evo is cable operated how does that affect the rear caliper selection? Rotor size? Radial mount spacing? Unsprung weight?

Is there any evidence to support running rear brake pads with a more aggressive compound will even out brake bias? I think there are more factors that are in play that affect brake bias.

Just questions off the top of my head while I read this thread.

 

A visual look says the Brembo + my steering arm is really close but will probably hit some of the tabs on the caliper. So then I just need to get a right caliper for a left side mount (if thats how they work them..) and see how the width restrictions are.

 

I feel the issue even with stock brakes is that rear needs more brake force. The OE setup is calibrated on the safe side. IMHO everything points to the ABS to be taken out and to run a manual brake bias valve.

 

Calipers have rotational direction and up-down orientation. Usually you have leading and following calipers, at least with wilwood. On others you can swap the calipers left to right, to get proper orientation when switching to behind the axle mount but then you need to swap the bleed valves to the top and put the crossover pipe on the other side. Of course, this is not possible with all caliper types.

I have the OE uprights and my brembo racing kit dissassembled in my workshop if you need any measurements..

 

The factory setup is rear bias. When my ABS failed on track, the rears kept locking first.

 

To be clear, we are not talking at all about the rear brakes right now, if you want to change your bias run a staggered compound and as it stands we are effectively increasing the rear bias with the proposed brake solution because we are decreasing the front bias with smaller piston area. But what we are talking about right now is moving the front caliper from being in front of the front axle to being behind the front axle. I refrained from using clock positions because it's backwards from one side of the car to the other (3 oclock on driver side is 9 oclock on passenger and vice versa).


Part of the appeal for this kit is that the only people who should need ducting at all is those spending 30+ minutes on track at a time or doing W2W stuff. Granted we will still need to put that to the test but that is the goal. If ducting is needed there are ways to get around the axle.


The Wilwood Aero6 we are looking to use doesn't have leading or trailing options, it can be oriented either way because it has bleeders on both ends of the caliper and dual internal crossovers so no matter how it's oriented there will always be a bleeder pointing upwards and air will always move up because of the crossovers. The only thing that matters for direction is the pistons because they are staggered. So another advantage of this kit is now you only have to bleed the front calipers with one bleeder instead of two.

As for steering arm clearance since we are making a custom rotor hat we can move the disc centerline and thus the caliper outward to clear the steering arm if it doesn't as is.

 

 

What ever you end up getting here Ben, its great to see you back into the EvO mix again

Looking fwd to some completion pics & performance no.s

Joe