Missing the AK lol. Nevermind the brake dust and chemicals you absorb into your skin daily, Corona must be worse lol.

 

There will be plenty of pictures to go around. I like to document every engine I build with a ton of pictures.

 

I haven't purchased an AK yet. I have 2 AR's, one is a multi-role gun, the other is more of a DMR. Been saving for a Rifle Dynamics AK. Prob grab one some time mid next year.

 

I always found it easier to do from the bottom..

 

I have 50k miles on the 94mm billet, it should serve you well.

 

Cool
​

 

it depends on the tools you have. I have access to a lift and a small crane so it is ok. Having said that, last evo I restored I deliberately did everything on the floor, no lifts.. put the complete engine + trans + TC on a pallet, and just lifted the nose of the car with the crane. Slid the engine underneath and then lowered the car onto the jacks. Then, just hooked the engine and lifted it into position..
I always found it easier to mount the TC with the engine out, than doing it with the engine in.
Fun fact.. Rally teams do not use lifts. They do all the work with the cars on the ground, on those high jackstands.. That way they train for when they have to service the car in the field

 

After being told my wheels would take 6-9 weeks to custom order somehow they showed up today. Now I need to get off of my butt and get some work done to make them fit.

 

it's not fun... Bye bye pretty body panels. :P

 

those looks huge what size are they?

slightly related note - my 18x9.5 +28 fit perfectly right now with rear rolls. To get 18x10s to fit would I believe require control arm changes. Is that going to make much difference, given still being stuck on 255 (stock aero)

 

18x12

 

Motor out the bottom while connected to the trans is way easier. Coming out the top sucks but is the only option most of the time.

With the trans sitting underneath the driver side frame rail and the accessory drive so close to the passenger frame rail there's not a whole ton of room to maneuver the engine up and out. You for sure want a load leveler for it.

Going out the bottom is a breeze if you're able to.

 

18x10 with up to 265s is relatively easy on stock control arms. You don't even need to pull the rears if your camber is right. I ran this setup for several years without any rubbing. My setup was:

Rear:
18x10 +38 RPF-1
265/35R18 RE-71Rs
-2.5 camber, zero toe or slight toe out for AutoX
Mild roll to inner fender lip (mine was about 45 degrees bent upward)
5mm spacer (could reduce to 3mm if your tires are narrow enough)
Extended studs / open lugs to get enough thread engagement with the 5mm spacer
Shave ABS mounting bracket flush with control arm to be safe

Front:
18x10 +38 RPF-1
18mm spacer (18-20mm is the sweet spot with this wheel)
-3.2 camber
If you have added caster at the top of the strut, you will need offset LCA bushings to move the wheel forward

Worked great with fender liners installed and everything. It starts to feel like threading the needle when you're adjusting offset by millimeters and camber by fractions of a degree to make it work, but it fits.

Jumping up to taller/wider 275/35R18s has been a headache, but the 265s fit just fine.

I ran 255 RE-71Rs and 265 RE-71Rs back to back one AutoX season. The 265s did have marginally more grip, but they were also ever so slightly slower in a straight line due to the additional height. Top speed was slightly higher, though, so it worked out on most courses. I was shocked that I could actually notice the difference, however small, between the two setups.

 

Annnnnnnnnnd I'm broke ....now...again...as well ...lol.



DailyEng, 3 stage, ARA1 tanks and breather, IRP remote with oil cooler ports. Unfortunately we can't use the built in air-oil separator because it comes into the downpipe right at the bolt area by 2 inches. But with the proper tank it shouldn't be an issue they said.

 

fuuuuuuu....