Yep! 5 years and still going strong!

Yea its been a neglected area really. its the next step of upgrades i guess to do. just such a big cost like always. its okay Dallas Ohlins are on the way!

One of the first things i did as a street car. be careful which vac lines u loop ontop of the manifold as 1 is pre throttle body and 2 are post. Or even better replace the manifold and TB.

 

Sounds right. I go through about 5gal per 20min session. I think the course is 2.2 miles and we do about 7-9 laps or so.

 

Bee-Radd,

How many race-events do you run per year? And are they 30 minute sprints or what is the typical configuration?
I trust you also test, qualify, and perhaps even occasionally run for fun.

Trying to understand how long in terms of race-miles is your 2.3 lasting.

In the "old days" 2.3 was default build for local race Evos in California, after stock motor tired-out.
As driver progressed into lower power to weight ratio, 2.3 was hugely beneficial with its torque.

Typically the motors would be solid for 3 years of racing.

Yours is exceptional value at this point.

 

IIRC, bee-radd said he shifts at a very reasonable 7xxx RPM shift point. That probably helps significantly with longevity.

I know the 2.2 is the current crowd favorite, but I still want to believe that the 2.3/2.4 options can be reliable enough with the correct parts choice and a proper build.

 

all right.. will look into adding the block off plate. damn, always something.

 

Michael Puglisi had 5 years on his motor before he popped it at Gridlife midwest. And he is around 600 whp. I was told by Devin at Boostin to expect approx 5 years of full on track abuse before needing a refresh. So I dont think 5yrs is exceptional per what I've seen and heard. Granted there are too many variables to nail down time frame on everyone's specific situation.

 

We do 3x 10 lap races a meeting and 5 meetings a year. +20 min of qualifying which id normally do around 8 laps of + we get 2 practice sessions which are 20min long and varies how much we run in that.

Would normally do around 4x test days a season also with variable running but i often run these on low boost and cruise around quite a bit testing parts and setups.

As mentioned i only shift at 7000 - 7200RPM with a hard cut at 7800 so it isnt hammered but yea it seems to have been a very well built motor. I throw new big ends at it every season and compression + leakdown test it.
Think ill pull it out in the next few weeks while the box is out and give it a bit more of a substantial refresh this season.

 

What's this mean?

 

The big end of the rod. The bearings.

 

Mike was also running a 162mm rod in a 63 block so his compression height on his pistons is paper thin which is why they cracked. To be honest I'm amazed his motor lasted as long as it did considering how short that compression height is. Running a standard 150mm rod or a 156mm rod definitely won't have issues like that.

I think at 4-450whp 5 years can easily be expected out of a motor assuming there haven't been any questionable parts used in the build. Granted, I think seasonal check ups on the rod bearings is always a good idea.

 

sorry to circle back to the EGR thing:

@kaj , with yours that is just a sandwich for stock appearances, did you also leave all the hoses in place and such? I'm looking at STM's which looks like it is designed to be sandwiched in between the EGR valve for OEM appearance, so I'm wondering if I can literally just bolt it in between the plate and such.

https://stmtuned.com/collections/stm...-evo-7-8-9-dsm

I assume that functionally, it is the same as an EGR delete, but just looks like the emissions equipment is there. Not sure why they provide a gasket also.

Also, any issues with like pressure build up or choking with the EGR attempting to recirc the gasses back in but not being able to? Again, I assume you leave all the hoses in place. If it's just sandwiching this plate in, easy enough for me to handle.

 

I put the OEM gasket between the IM and plate. I then got some longer bolts to sandwich everything together. Everything else was left so it looks completely stock. So far, it's made it through visual checks.
I haven't noticed any difference in how the car runs or drives.

 

thanks mate. so, nothing else (tune, etc) needs to be changed, just put the plate in there, and everything else stays the same? aside from disabling the CEL or whatever.

tuner (ER) is thinking it is leaking and causing some intermittent knock up top. regardless, after reading up on it, seems like it's good to do with the road racing i'm doing now especially

 

I think my EGR is disabled in the tune..? I can't remember for sure and it's locked, so I can't look at it. But, I can't think of why it would be a problem, even on a stock ROM. Unless the valve has a sensor and looks for flow during startup/EGR use....?

 

So, who was fabbing the Alumalite splitters? Any updates?