Breaking in new parts
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
i could hit up rush hour or construction zones LOL. Now that you mention it: I could always take a drive on one of our local mountain roads. They are fairly low speed limit, not too far away, and lead to some REALLY good diners.
Well street driving a caged no plated car isn't an option for most of us. As Jon has said before, do 2 (ideally 4) Open passing hpde style track days driving 4-5 tenths rowing SMOOTHLY through the gears, change all fluids between the weekends and don't forget to top off things and you'll be fine. When we hardly drive it it usually also means we hardly drive stick so it's also good to break Yourself in then too before you compete the following weekend.
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,110
Likes: 320
From: Croatia
we had a local rally team that engineered their own gearbox, for lancia delta integrale platform.... they used to just attach the box to a lathe and spin it with no load for an hour.. that was enough for them..
you could also book an hour on a dyno, and just run the car trough gears at moderate load.. that will break everything in... This is the best method to break in the engine too..
Bear in mind that stock cars are usually broken in at the factory in the first few km..
And I am not making this up, I head this from an engineer from Aston Martin.
you could also book an hour on a dyno, and just run the car trough gears at moderate load.. that will break everything in... This is the best method to break in the engine too..
Bear in mind that stock cars are usually broken in at the factory in the first few km..
And I am not making this up, I head this from an engineer from Aston Martin.
Originally Posted by kikiturbo
plate diffs usually require parking lot figure 8's, that is what drifters swear to..
All joking aside, yeah it seems a lot of rear diff break-in procedures suggest the figure 8 method but TRE has a diff procedure
Heres a member who had a SHEP rebuild & noted that Shep suggested the fig 8 method
If you haven't done this yet you should, it actually has fixed some of the built in understeer these cars have, the more I drove it the more benifits ive seen, one is it drives more like a rear drive car and two off the line traction has greatly improved. Takes just under an hour with hand tools to swap the diff out on a lift, be sure to use a trans jack to support the front. Another install note is be sure to run factory Diaqueen LSD fluid, the dif will chatter for a few miles on tight turns, Shep suggested to do some figure eights in a parking lot to break in the clutch's, I now have zero noise in any situation.
Last edited by MinusPrevious; Dec 22, 2018 at 09:23 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
I just did a couple u-turns. Zero noise. Quiet as a mouse. I was really surprised.
the difference in preload between when I pulled it out and now is laughable. Not surprised, of course, considering... but I did smile.
the difference in preload between when I pulled it out and now is laughable. Not surprised, of course, considering... but I did smile.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
I have a tre rear diff as well. Little over 1000 miles. I did notice some more whining especially when car is slowing down from 40mph(foot off accelerator)when gears are still engaged(and some when not in gear but still there), especially 4th gear. Its had the same whining noise since the first mile. Also no noise from the max lock when using diaqueen.
I use to get a clunk noise from when reversing to back out of a parking lot and that's gone now.
I use to get a clunk noise from when reversing to back out of a parking lot and that's gone now.
Last edited by CaptainSquirts; Dec 25, 2018 at 10:00 AM.