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You know you are in the company of a now-relatively-smaller-group of Evo racers when the thread goes from "Who's interested in this type of wheel?" to a discussion on the effects of lower offset on wheel bearings to track lug nut material and torque specs in one page. I am soaking it all up with my rusty Evo-brain after years away from racing or even driving my Evo.
Consider me interested. I am finally making plans to get my Evo put back together. I am not opposed to running wide fenders (front is easier obviously) but if I can avoid cutting up the rear by means of bolt-on mods, that would be great.
Yes, they need to be: strong, relatively lightweight, relatively affordable and awesome looking. In that order.
You know you are in the company of a now-relatively-smaller-group of Evo racers when the thread goes from "Who's interested in this type of wheel?" to a discussion on the effects of lower offset on wheel bearings to track lug nut material and torque specs in one page. I am soaking it all up with my rusty Evo-brain after years away from racing or even driving my Evo.
Consider me interested. I am finally making plans to get my Evo put back together. I am not opposed to running wide fenders (front is easier obviously) but if I can avoid cutting up the rear by means of bolt-on mods, that would be great.
Yes, they need to be: strong, relatively lightweight, relatively affordable and awesome looking. In that order.
Thanks Ayoustin.
Konig makes great wheels. Whatever is come up with will certainly fit that bill.
I have not had the time to follow up. My days lately have been filled with getting my car back together and trying to tie the knot on the front splitter stuff. Feel free to reach out to them to show that there is interest.
Was this custom wheel offset going to made using Konig Hypergram wheel?
If you compare it to a 17x9 +35 then 18x11+35 will be an inch bigger outboard and an inch bigger inboard. Is having a widebody Evo going to be the prerequisite to running 18x11+35?
I love this thread. Can’t remember what you are ordering as a group, but I’m in. LOL!!! I have 18x10 +38 PF1s 295/30 for street and 17x10 +38 PF1s 295/35 R7’s for track. I use front spacers with longer studs.
I lost a rim at Texas World Speedway decades ago off my C5 Z06. Running CCW down the main straight, I turned left down off the apron at 130ish. After a few infield turns, the right rim exploded off the car. I lifted and the wheel accelerated ahead of me. Left turn coming up....I dipped the right front rotor over the right edge of track and made the left turn without using the brakes. The rotor and caliper gliding nicely on the grass. Swapped my street rims with a new set of Hoosiers at the track and continued. All the lugs and center cap were still bolted to hub. The rim cracked all 5 C5 spokes. Everyone said cheap Chevy. But it was really the Powdercoating heating process that weakened the wheel. This was back about 20 years ago.
I need a quick lesson how to get wider rims to fit. Currently run 10” width. I shaved my LCA’s and barely rub my coil springs in rear. How in the heck are you getting anything more under stock width body? I know Andy hammered a few hard spots.
Building a new motor and buying shop space has taken priority for me vs pursuing more wheel and tire. Eventually I'll get back around to fitting 11" wheels on the stock body but it more than likely won't happen in the next year.
I love this thread. Can’t remember what you are ordering as a group, but I’m in. LOL!!! I have 18x10 +38 PF1s 295/30 for street and 17x10 +38 PF1s 295/35 R7’s for track. I use front spacers with longer studs.
What's your brake and brake cooling setup for those 17x10 RPF-1s? I'm already pushing my OEM brakes too far on stock turbo and motor. I can't imagine how much abuse your brakes are taking with the amount of power you're making.
Originally Posted by Driv200
I need a quick lesson how to get wider rims to fit. Currently run 10” width. I shaved my LCA’s and barely rub my coil springs in rear. How in the heck are you getting anything more under stock width body? I know Andy hammered a few hard spots.
I'm curious too. Fitting my 18x10s felt like threading the needle between fender lip and trailing arm. How much more inboard clearance do we get with aftermarket trailing arms before we have to start hammering on the body?
I’m on AP racing 8350 stock size replacements. I turn down my boost to 500hp tune on track. They are okay. The better I get (20yrs), the less I use my brakes. Tight tracks light them up and I have to go through all the things you do....double tap....brake early to make sure they are still there. You know the drill. I need six pots that don’t kill the rotating mass formula. Like the upgraded AP Series stuff. But, Im not competing as much and plan to invest in new turbo tech for now.
My fronts at -3 camber and tears at -2.7 I think. I am slightly rubbing my springs up front and the front tub area of both front and rear. Not a fingernails width between my rear tire and LCA. I need someone’s custom LCA ASAP!
When it comes to Evo 8/9 I have the whole thing except rear upper control arm done. Not going to do anything with the rear upper though, its a fine piece as it is and no one wants to spend a grand on something that has no measurable improvement.
When it comes to Evo 8/9 I have the whole thing except rear upper control arm done. Not going to do anything with the rear upper though, its a fine piece as it is and no one wants to spend a grand on something that has no measurable improvement.
As in going faster improvement ya not likely, but they have been known to break at that bracket part with the two bolts up top. So for me it's more reliability then speed to replace it with something stronger, maybe even lighter.
Jun 15, 2019, 03:33 PM
