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Catch cans

Old Aug 30, 2019 | 01:14 PM
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Catch cans

First off, love STM for lots of reasons, but they fell short here. So for those of you that have the STM "sealed" catch can, I did the unthinkable and cut it open because if was curious how they set it up. Turns out they didn't really do much....



No real filtering of ANY kind going on. Simply this 1/2" gap? between the two side walls where the oil comes in and the air gets sucked out. I was always curious why I was getting so much oil (6an vs 10an) and why was oil in the pan so "water'y" so then I started to dig further. I'll now be running a Radium can which obviously has a better design as a previous post described but I couldn't find it. So far around the same price, you can see OBVIOUS differences, you decide.



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Old Aug 30, 2019 | 02:45 PM
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Im pretty partial to spending money on things that look like they belong and actually function properly. Thats why I bought the Radium can a long time ago that fits with a nice bracket right under the strut bar on the passenger side.
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Old Aug 30, 2019 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Im pretty partial to spending money on things that look like they belong and actually function properly. Thats why I bought the Radium can a long time ago that fits with a nice bracket right under the strut bar on the passenger side.
Unfort I can't use the strut bar ones as it's already raised up from the ground control hats. Plus I need the "1q" one for rules. So I hacked up the STM transmission mount
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Old Aug 30, 2019 | 03:57 PM
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I had the radium stuff on my car, they let through just as much oil. As in they never needed drained because they never collected oil. They always just had an oil film on the inside.

I now have the STM because it package better than where the radium cans mount.

If you don't want oil in your intake, you need to run a VTA catch can. It's that simple.
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
I had the radium stuff on my car, they let through just as much oil. As in they never needed drained because they never collected oil. They always just had an oil film on the inside.

I now have the STM because it package better than where the radium cans mount.

If you don't want oil in your intake, you need to run a VTA catch can. It's that simple.
Do you have the V1 or V2? I know they updated the design and I'm modifying my V1 to be more V2 like and want to make sure I'm routing everything correctly.

(sorry for the old-ish bump)
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bboypuertoroc
Do you have the V1 or V2? I know they updated the design and I'm modifying my V1 to be more V2 like and want to make sure I'm routing everything correctly.

(sorry for the old-ish bump)
Idk, I bought them in 2015. There no longer in the car, running the STM sealed can.
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Idk, I bought them in 2015. There no longer in the car, running the STM sealed can.
Was talking about the STM one. My bad, should've made that clear.
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bboypuertoroc
Was talking about the STM one. My bad, should've made that clear.
Oh. It's the V2. I bought it in 2018. I do not run the balance shaft port, it fills the can with oil. (Source- it filled my can with oil lol)
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 10:04 AM
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Right now mine is set up with both the -6 and -10 off the valve cover running to the can, and the line from the intake manifold runs to the can with the check valve flowing towards the IM. V2 looks like the intake manifold runs to the -6 with a check valve and the -10 then runs to the can... is that correct? Seems like V2 is the correct setup and I want to make sure mine is running right.

I got a ton of side projects going while my engine build is under way so my car is 100% ready to rock when I receive it and taking care of crankcase pressure is pretty high on the list.
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by bboypuertoroc
Right now mine is set up with both the -6 and -10 off the valve cover running to the can, and the line from the intake manifold runs to the can with the check valve flowing towards the IM. V2 looks like the intake manifold runs to the -6 with a check valve and the -10 then runs to the can... is that correct? Seems like V2 is the correct setup and I want to make sure mine is running right.

I got a ton of side projects going while my engine build is under way so my car is 100% ready to rock when I receive it and taking care of crankcase pressure is pretty high on the list.
Yeah, V2 runs the drivers side direct to the intake manifold with the stock PCV valve, and then the rear -10 fitting goes to the catch can, then to the turbo inlet.
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Yeah, V2 runs the drivers side direct to the intake manifold with the stock PCV valve, and then the rear -10 fitting goes to the catch can, then to the turbo inlet.
Awesome, thanks. Glad to know I can re-use this check valve instead of having to buy more **** than I need to.
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Old Feb 25, 2020 | 08:53 AM
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Similar question, but what makes v2 a better setup (-6AN from intake manifold pulling vacuum from side of valve cover vent) than v1 (-6AN from intake manifold pulling vacuum at can)?

Does v1 give too much vacuum and cause the can to start pulling oil from the PCV port at rear of valve cover? I know the side valve cover vent is very well baffled but I would also imagine whatever oil vapors coming out of it you would want going into a catch can to hopefully end up separated to avoid going back into the intake tract.

On a similar note do you HAVE to use -6AN lines for the STM setup? I already have -10AN on the side vent and PCV vent of my Evo VC, seems pointless to step back to a -6AN.
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Old Feb 25, 2020 | 09:42 AM
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V2 is just a simpler setup. Less lines going every where. The PCV to the manifold from the driver side didn't need to go to the catch can, so it eliminates extra plumbing.
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Old Feb 26, 2020 | 09:35 AM
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I see, so the change from v1 -> v2 was likely done for cost savings/simplicity on STM's part. On a similar note if I own a v1 (assuming it's similar to the one OP cut in half) and already have -10AN fittings on the PCV and side vent of VC could I just connect the side VC vent -10AN to the top of the catch can (where originally you would put the -10AN for intake vacuum) and go with a -6AN to the side of the can for intake pipe vacuum (in other words, #4 will be where #3 is, just with a -6AN weld on fitting at intake pipe, and #3 where #4 is)?

Otherwise I could keep the original setup and just use a -10AN to -6AN reducer at side of valve cover so it's how STM originally designed it, but it seems to defeat the purpose of opening up that side vent to -10AN + restrict airflow (currently have the two VC -10AN fittings wide open and they move A LOT of air).

v1 diagram below for reference.

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Old Feb 26, 2020 | 09:42 AM
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Its definitely simpler, but I don't think it was purely a cost cutting measure. Very little if any oil comes out tof the driver side port on the valve cover, so its wasteful to run it to the catch can, especially with such a small vacuum source with the small stock PCV valve. It also maintains your BISS and idle settings since it uses the stock PCV.
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