Spliiter Questions......
#1
Spliiter Questions......
Tough times, so I decided to start a new business to give new meaning to the word "pole" in my pole barn.
Unfortunately, they misspelled my sign............
So plan B, make an EVO Splitter.........
So reality, I called up a local sign company to see if they had any used 10 or 12mm Alumilite and they gave me these 2 sheets for free, but they are only 6mm thick.
My thought was to somehow epoxy them together, in addition to some fasteners here and there (in addition to the frame mounts).
My questions are.......
1. Anyone ever glue this stuff to itself or anything else?
2. Since this stuff has a "grain", per say, would it be better to cut each piece at an opposite angle, so they run in different directions. Like this.
3. I had thought ideally, you want a 90 degree wall right @ bottom of bumper, in relation to splitter horiz surface.
I got this carbon fiber lower "splitter" thingy that was attached to the used bumper I got. The only factory metal bumper
supports I am using are the one's right below headlights. The carbon fiber thing really strengthens up the bottom of bumper,
and give a decent place to attach splitter (it also gives plenty of room for larger IC and larger IC pipes). But it doesn't
lend itself to well to this "90 degree wall". So wondering how important that is overall?
And finally,
4. Looks like most attach to frame in 4 points. Two up front and tow farther back, dropping down from frame.
That typically enough?
Unfortunately, they misspelled my sign............
So plan B, make an EVO Splitter.........
So reality, I called up a local sign company to see if they had any used 10 or 12mm Alumilite and they gave me these 2 sheets for free, but they are only 6mm thick.
My thought was to somehow epoxy them together, in addition to some fasteners here and there (in addition to the frame mounts).
My questions are.......
1. Anyone ever glue this stuff to itself or anything else?
2. Since this stuff has a "grain", per say, would it be better to cut each piece at an opposite angle, so they run in different directions. Like this.
3. I had thought ideally, you want a 90 degree wall right @ bottom of bumper, in relation to splitter horiz surface.
I got this carbon fiber lower "splitter" thingy that was attached to the used bumper I got. The only factory metal bumper
supports I am using are the one's right below headlights. The carbon fiber thing really strengthens up the bottom of bumper,
and give a decent place to attach splitter (it also gives plenty of room for larger IC and larger IC pipes). But it doesn't
lend itself to well to this "90 degree wall". So wondering how important that is overall?
And finally,
4. Looks like most attach to frame in 4 points. Two up front and tow farther back, dropping down from frame.
That typically enough?
#4
"Next, we will discuss an often overlooked and a critical piece of your splitter system, the air dam.
The air dam is the vertical part of your splitter that attaches perpendicularly to your main splitter plane
and parallel to your bumper. We see many splitters that do not feature this part. If you’re one of the offending
people, you’re really hurting your performance."
https://professionalawesome.com/diy-downforce/
But then I see a bumper/splitter combo like this and start to wonder..........
Is IC cooling and air ducts more important than splitter efficiency in this case?
I did remove that CF "splitter" thing and it looks like a perfect spot to mount a 2-3" high alum strip that wraps around bumper.
I have a decent amount left over from diffuser. Perfect for sealing off air also and maintains my clearance for larger IC
(which I may eventually replace for a lighter version more geared towards RRing).
#6
Evolved Member
iTrader: (15)
It also looks way better lol. I'm going to add some braces behind the bumper cover to the splitter part to give the front more support but still make it field removable. Also worth noting is my ankles no longer have scars and it fits between the trailer wheels MUCH better then my OG lol. It actually felt way more planted with the Voltex. I believe that's the race my front rod went missing. Make sure you loctite these guys.
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#8
Evolving Member
iTrader: (8)
I use the 6mm as a single sheet. This is with a 6" forward projection, three front supports, and two rear supports. It has been speed tested to 120mph, but it is primarily for autox use. I would recommend additional supports for track use at sustained high speeds, especially if you go bigger than the 6" projection to generate more downforce.
#9
Evolving Member
iTrader: (8)
The air damn is garden edging from home depot or lowes. I bought the tallest one they had and cut off the ribs on the one end. The other side had a tube molded onto it for top edge support. I put this side down and screwed into it from the bottom side of the splitter.
#10
No doubt, it looks great. I've given up on any real thoughts for looks on this car these days.
It won't even see much street time at this point, which is fine as I have way too many other summer only
vehicles that need to get out.
What material did you use for the 90 degree lip.
I've seen that garden edging thing a lot in looking at other splitter builds, looks like it would be easier than an alum strip that still needs to be mounted somehow.
I wasn't sure if it would flex. Turn 12 here is 90+ (see pdf), so I don't think it would be that hard to get to 130+ish on that long stretch after that.
I guess going straight at that speed, who cares if it flexes some.
What did you use on bottom of that single 6mm sheet for supports. Wasn't sure if it would tear through with that thin a sheet.
It won't even see much street time at this point, which is fine as I have way too many other summer only
vehicles that need to get out.
I use the 6mm as a single sheet. This is with a 6" forward projection, three front supports, and two rear supports. It has been speed tested to 120mph, but it is primarily for autox use. I would recommend additional supports for track use at sustained high speeds, especially if you go bigger than the 6" projection to generate more downforce.
I wasn't sure if it would flex. Turn 12 here is 90+ (see pdf), so I don't think it would be that hard to get to 130+ish on that long stretch after that.
I guess going straight at that speed, who cares if it flexes some.
What did you use on bottom of that single 6mm sheet for supports. Wasn't sure if it would tear through with that thin a sheet.
#11
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Mounting a splitter well is definitely a pain to get right it seems. Ive gone through a couple iterations and heres where I am now. And of course is normal Dallas J/SSB Designs fashion I have to go overboard and make cute little brackets.
I really want to scrap everything and make a hinged mount inline with the back edge of the bumper and use gas struts so things can deflect up at the nose. So far Ive broken 2 mounting setups, one at 2" ground clearance and another now at 2.5" clearance. Im sticking with 2.5" though.
Right now my splitter element is two 1/4" sheets of plywood with the top side being cored out more than 50%. Then I vacuum bagged it the two pieces together with a full covering of wood glue to get good pressure between them and a full bond. Its WAAAYY stiffer than my old 3/8" splitter but I now want to take it to the next level with some construction grade (cheaper than the cosmetic stuff) carbon with a closed cell core and structural ribbing. I think I can lose 5+ lbs in that way. But its lower on my priority list than a few other things right now.
Mounted splitter
Front center mount bracket. The same bracket mounts 4 of the 6 position and 2 using OEM holes have a slightly different bracket
Rear splitter mount, attaches to the stock cross brace. I originally made an adjustable bracket but when I'd scrap the ground it would push it out of place.
A light center frame just for supporting the middle and controlling left/right. Wll probably remake this again, just need the right inspiration.
I really want to scrap everything and make a hinged mount inline with the back edge of the bumper and use gas struts so things can deflect up at the nose. So far Ive broken 2 mounting setups, one at 2" ground clearance and another now at 2.5" clearance. Im sticking with 2.5" though.
Right now my splitter element is two 1/4" sheets of plywood with the top side being cored out more than 50%. Then I vacuum bagged it the two pieces together with a full covering of wood glue to get good pressure between them and a full bond. Its WAAAYY stiffer than my old 3/8" splitter but I now want to take it to the next level with some construction grade (cheaper than the cosmetic stuff) carbon with a closed cell core and structural ribbing. I think I can lose 5+ lbs in that way. But its lower on my priority list than a few other things right now.
Mounted splitter
Front center mount bracket. The same bracket mounts 4 of the 6 position and 2 using OEM holes have a slightly different bracket
Rear splitter mount, attaches to the stock cross brace. I originally made an adjustable bracket but when I'd scrap the ground it would push it out of place.
A light center frame just for supporting the middle and controlling left/right. Wll probably remake this again, just need the right inspiration.
#12
Evolving Member
iTrader: (8)
I've seen that garden edging thing a lot in looking at other splitter builds, looks like it would be easier than an alum strip that still needs to be mounted somehow.
I wasn't sure if it would flex. Turn 12 here is 90+ (see pdf), so I don't think it would be that hard to get to 130+ish on that long stretch after that.
I guess going straight at that speed, who cares if it flexes some.
What did you use on bottom of that single 6mm sheet for supports. Wasn't sure if it would tear through with that thin a sheet.
I wasn't sure if it would flex. Turn 12 here is 90+ (see pdf), so I don't think it would be that hard to get to 130+ish on that long stretch after that.
I guess going straight at that speed, who cares if it flexes some.
What did you use on bottom of that single 6mm sheet for supports. Wasn't sure if it would tear through with that thin a sheet.
Dallas, you need to change to cables. Struts would be a cool factor, but really just complication and extra weight. If the splitter hits the ground, you want it to come up with relatively little resistance. Then quickly fall back in place to resume downforce. Plus cable is cheap at your local home improvement store.
#13
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Dallas, your splitter rods look solid. Try the Pro-awesome splitter supports. They allow the front of the splitter to deflect up, but they're not cable so they down allow the splitter flutter.
https://professionalawesome.com/prod...-support-rods/
https://professionalawesome.com/prod...-support-rods/
#15
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Dallas, your splitter rods look solid. Try the Pro-awesome splitter supports. They allow the front of the splitter to deflect up, but they're not cable so they down allow the splitter flutter.
https://professionalawesome.com/prod...-support-rods/
https://professionalawesome.com/prod...-support-rods/