Alright guys. What’s the easiest recipe to properly go to slicks?
* suspension I assume?

 

Am I having DeJaVu or didn't we have this thread, by you, a little ways back?

Ya here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...ll-slicks.html

 

Do full actual slicks actually have more grip than the purple crack, or do they just last longer for actual W2W type racing where the cars goes laps?

 

The debate of the century. Full michelin slick vs hoosier A7 vs hankook td, etc etc. First at the end of the day who's ever got the engineers, tech's, expert driver, time, budget, time and data to setup the chassis to the .0001 level is fastest on ANY racing tire. On a actual racing chassis with actual aero, the full slick will have more ultimate grip, especially in braking zones. On a touring car with a unibody that's glued together, off the shelf aero, my money and experience says A's have more ultimate grip on average. It's when you flip to higher G's, technical/roval tracks, summer weather, fully adjustable suspension, etc that the slick begins to show it's colors. However, if your lacking any of the above you won't "find time" on a slick in any reasonable amount of time or money. Your better off getting coaching, showing data, etc for way less money.

Windows of grip example on a simple scale, likelihood and ability for any car/driver to find time

0 - 100
0 = no skill
100 = full team/prep/sponsorship
A7 - between 2 and 50
R7 - between 45 and 60
Slick - between 90 and 100.

 

Ballrok, that thread got off topic and died with putting car on diet. I wanted a more focused thread. Still haven’t dieted. Thought there was no debate about slick being faster than Hoosier A’s. I assumed the slick lasts longer overall... but greater expense. My goal for this thread was to learn what suspension I need to upgrade to and start the process.

 

Ah, well ok then. IF you are convinced that you want to endeavor on the slick path, you'll need the following. Brakes you're already good on.

1. Tire Pyrometer - https://discoveryparts.com/auto-raci...-lon50690.html
2. At least 2 way coilovers, valved for spring rates being used.
3. Adjustable sway's AND adjustable endlinks, nothing stock on hardware. Likely start with 26 front, 27 rear.
4. Full hard/Spherical bearings ALL around. I have my OEM arms equipped with these if you want them.
5. Scales, Strings, Camber, Toe equipment. This is "to you liking" but a good place to start is SmartStrings, SmartCamber, https://www.smartracingproducts.com/
6. SEVERAL sets of springs. Most of the time Slicks are on the order of 250lbs greater then your OPTIMIZED R-Compound setup but vary as I pointed out in another thread by track.
7. Several sets of wheels because slick compounds vary significantly depending on track/conditions.
8. Dedicated set of wheels for "rain" tires. Unless the track is absolutely dry, don't drive on the slicks.
9. Enough experience at X track to know you won't go into the grass. Once you do with slicks, you're looking at the wall because nothing will stop you.
10. *****. Big enough to turn harder, brake later, and a lot of luck because as I pointed out earlier there's a SUPER fine line on the edge, there's no forgiveness zone, sound, nothing really, just a WTF moment and hopefully you have a lot of room.

So. You'll need to be an Expert in most all of that, Or, you will need a dedicated mechanic at the track with you. If you haven't once pyro'd your R7's, or changed camber, or messed with bump/compresson valves - then I'd start there and switch to A7's first. Start in the pits with a guy taking pyro/pressure readings. Then once all the rest is satisfied you'll be ready to get your monies worth out of slick testing.