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Depends on whatcha wanna know? If you're still after hillclimb/TT setup and you want to keep the rear oem then I'd opt for the 8350's. If you're doing door to door or longer stints on harder tracks then I'd opt for the Radical's.
if you go with radical's would you recommend something else for the rear?
if you go with radical's would you recommend something else for the rear?
The braking torque of the Radical front kit is close enough to stock that the rears are well-matched. Upgrading the rears is a matter of thermal capacity.
IIRC, @Balrok upgraded the rears for track use. He might have some input.
Sorry just discovered this thread, Evos are heavy cars with alot of front weight distribution. So you need good front brakes but rears you can keep stock. The stock diameter and cooling is not sufficient for an evo on the track.
I have the AP Racing RadiCAL Pro 5000 6 pots and a 362mm disc. I also went for the 25mm pad option because you get more bang for ur buck regarding brake pads and TCR pads etc will fit directly into them. But if your street driving also im not sure how these pads would go on the street.
362 rotors are a good size as you can still fit any 18" wheel over them but you get more brake diameter than stock which is too small. Its not hard to make a bracket up to mount the radical with the larger disc you dont need to buy an off the shelf kit.
6 Pot is the way to go. you get more even pad pressure which stops your pads from wearing uneven and more surface area for cooling etc. They also look more bling haha. The other big thing to consider when upgrading is to fit some sort of cooling duct. Especially one that can force air up the center of the disc and make the air come out the vanes between the surfaces of the disk as that will give you the most efficient cooling.
depends also on power though.. i am downsizing from 350 evo x to 325 ap racing 8350 and with the small ducting and air guides i am hping it will perform ok
It's basically heat management. I no longer really need brake ducts because of the thermal capacity of the Radical's (372mm, huge). Plus the radicals are a stiffer by design so it's more consistent over a longer time period at any temperature. Going bigger in the rear naturally moved the torque ~4% towards the rear. It "feels" like your braking less because your not standing the thing on it's nose but data showed the same G's and more consistent lap times. Plus I don't have to bother rebuilding every year. The rotors cost the same as Evo ones, ironically.
Now, if I wasn't doing w2w or if my sessions were less then 15 mins I would totally stick with the 8350's because of upfront cost, consumable costs, weight savings, etc and still have plenty of braking power over pretty much any other tuner kit out there.
So they're both TOP tier kits, it's only a matter of build type and use. Also someone can convince "someone" to build that bling bling brake ducting guide Bee has lol.
i ordered 17x9.5 ce28 club racer 2's, it's volks' annual big sale. but yea, if the brakes fit a 17x8 +38 wheel (albeit with really good caliper clearance), i imagine most wheels with similar will fit.
Ducting definitely depends on intended use. It's not a bad idea for 20+ min sessions, and basically required if you're doing enduros. Good ducts will increase pad life exponentially in those extended use scenarios and help keep rotor temps from spiking. I was just down at Road Atlanta this past weekend for the 10hr Petit Le Mans race and at night you could tell which cars had better ducts by watching cars brake into T10. The more efficient setups would have rotors glow in the braking zone and before the car hit the apex they had already stopped glowing. The less efficient setups would stay glowing through basically the entire turn and wouldn't stop glowing until they were back on the gas.
For a TT or TA car I wouldn't bother with ducts. Ducts add drag to the front of the car and don't make any difference in performance over a couple of laps. If anything it takes the brakes even longer to get into their operating tamp.
It's basically heat management. I no longer really need brake ducts because of the thermal capacity of the Radical's (372mm, huge). Plus the radicals are a stiffer by design so it's more consistent over a longer time period at any temperature. Going bigger in the rear naturally moved the torque ~4% towards the rear. It "feels" like your braking less because your not standing the thing on it's nose but data showed the same G's and more consistent lap times. Plus I don't have to bother rebuilding every year. The rotors cost the same as Evo ones, ironically.
Now, if I wasn't doing w2w or if my sessions were less then 15 mins I would totally stick with the 8350's because of upfront cost, consumable costs, weight savings, etc and still have plenty of braking power over pretty much any other tuner kit out there.
So they're both TOP tier kits, it's only a matter of build type and use. Also someone can convince "someone" to build that bling bling brake ducting guide Bee has lol.
I tried going for the AP kit that uses the OEM disks but they no longer produce it. Even the Alcon's above have modern calipers but a "legacy" disc that you have to get from Alcon directly. Ah the woos of an aging platform.
I tried going for the AP kit that uses the OEM disks but they no longer produce it. Even the Alcon's above have modern calipers but a "legacy" disc that you have to get from Alcon directly. Ah the woos of an aging platform.
Do you know what caliper the AP kit was using? If there's enough interest I could get a run of brackets made to use those calipers with stock discs.
Do you know what caliper the AP kit was using? If there's enough interest I could get a run of brackets made to use those calipers with stock discs.
AP doesn’t have too many options for calipers - i imagine the basic 4 piston would work.
to keep the bias somewhat decent I imagine we’d want to run a 6 piston up front. If you’re running a 6 piston it’d be hard to not get the radi-cal series which doubles the price. For the front that’s justifiable - for the rear I’m not sure.
Getting the caliper they had is the problem, it's "ancient" in part terms. AP england said 4-5 months lead (in 2018) but Essex thinks it'd be double that at double that price. I haven't checked back on it since.
