yea bosch ABS would be super cool like they have in the cup cars but it retails at just under 6000 euro.

Before i removed it i was really against losing it. But once i did get rid of it i wouldnt look back. I very rarely have lockups and if i do i hear it and release the brake slightly. ive never had a major lock up where ive destroyed a tyre or anything like that, it isnt as easy to have a lock up as people make out especially if your in tune with your brake pedal.

Id would definitely help in the wet but we very rarely race in the wet anyway.


One other thing to consider is road car ABS is not designed for motorsport and the Bosch ABS system would be miles different to the standard ABS system. Standard ABS holds you back regarding lap time if anything

 

I take it you're also running a pedal box. Pedal boxes normally size the master cylinders to work properly without a vacuum booster and use 2 masters with a balance bar which makes altering bias easy enough. Boosters normally numb pedal feel down a bit so it's a lot easier to lock up on a setup that still uses a booster.

 

I kept the booster for about 3/4 of a season before i went to a pedal box.

We just ripped the hydraulic module for the ABS out and put some tee's in linking the input line to the output lines. left the electrical portion of the module installed and plugged in so it didnt fault the ACD

 

Swung by a friend's tonight who has an Essex 8350 front kit on his evo. Test fit the caliper on a rear rotor to make sure it'd fit without any pad hang over or clearance issues. And to my surprise the pad swept area is basically the same exact size as the rotor swept area and the caliper clears the center hat just fine. So making a rear bracket for 8350s (smaller piston version) on the stock rear rotor will be on my to do list this winter.

 

good news!

what front do you recommend?

8350 with evo 9 size rotor
8350 with X sized rotor
radical 4 piston
radical 6 piston

 

If your going to invest at that level of braking, the 6 pot is really the only logical option up front. But if you have certain restrictions like 17's then those other options can be worked out.

 

As @Balrok said, it will vary from person to person but what I would say is if you're trying to run 17s then your only option would be the Essex 8350 front kit. If you're running 18s then the Essex 9660 or 9668 kit. On my car I'll be using a 9660 with an X rotor in the front, coupled with the small 8350 in the rear on a stock 8/9 rotor will result in a total bias change of about 8% to the rear which is right where I want to be and it keeps me on stock rotors so consumable cost is kept low and easily source-able.

 

I would also go as far as sourcing their rotors too, they are just plain incredible. Getting all the advantages and features of the 8350 to use a centric blank seems a little half done to me. The part that held "them" back this whole time was the rotor hat design. If it's "stock size" even better cause you can sell it to oem'ers too.

 

Yea they sell thicker 300mm J hook rings so it's certainly doable. They were probably hesitant to make a rear rotor hat because you lose the parking brake doing it. Parking brake on an aluminum center hat is a bad idea. I'm not opposed to offering a 2 piece rear but the hats are the expensive part of the equation here. Getting brackets made is reasonably pricey but I don't expect these to be a big seller by any means so starting with the brackets and if enough people want 2 piece rears then I'll do that as well.

 

Well technically you're not supposed to use the e-brake when they're on fire lol. Isn't the other 2 or 3 2 piece rear makers alum? Haven't heard of cracked hats but certainly rotors.

 

my girodisc rears have aluminum hats, no issues

 

Cool feature on the essex ones is the expansion pins.

 

Kind of an interesting topic on aluminum hats for 2 piece rotors. I make the hats for my buddies 924 Lucky Dog endurance car. We tried making 6061 hats with the 8 porsche bobbins and after a few events (20-30 hours of racing) the slots wallowed out a ton. We tried 6061 hard anodized and it helped, maybe doubled the life. But the soft 6061 still squished like a hard coating on a soft candy. We switched to 7075 bare, and that was just enough stronger so they havent worn out yet.

We also found that tightening those bobbins causes them to twist in the floating slot and the car occasionally had terrible shake under braking. We just cut down a feeler gauge to use a s shim to get the bobbins tightened closer to parallel with the faces and that fully fixed the wheel shake under braking.

 

My concern isn't over cracking hats, it's about warping the hat from using the ebrake when it probably shouldn't be used. Warping the hat can cause the disc to not run true or abnormal pad wear etc. I try to look at stuff from a business perspective, AKA if it can get ****ed up, someone will **** it up.

Annnd this is why I like the PFC V3 rotors lol. No annoying pins, no non-reusable hardware, no wallowing out of bolt holes, ring replacement takes all of 2 minutes, and it's still a floating rotor.

https://pfc.parts/motorsports/discs/v3-disc/

 

@ayoustin , I'm in for brake upgrades when you have this figured out.