Upgrading 8/9 front brakes
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
I know lots of stuff in the rear of the X are different. As long as the radial depth of the rotor isn't smaller than the 8/9 then yea it wouldn't be too hard to do rears for an X in similar fashion. I'd just need to get my hands on a car to take measurements.
Edit: Woah, turns out Centric now sells replacement MR front rotors. Maybe that's nothing new but I was under the impression no one was making OEM replacement 2 piece rotors. Price isn't terrible either at around $200/rotor.
Edit: Woah, turns out Centric now sells replacement MR front rotors. Maybe that's nothing new but I was under the impression no one was making OEM replacement 2 piece rotors. Price isn't terrible either at around $200/rotor.
Those Racing Brake calipers look very similar to the generic Taiwanese calipers I see tons of companies use in their "bespoke" brake kits. The fact that it doesn't have any bridge over the pads would make me think it isn't much stiffer than the factory caliper either.
I'd be much more inclined to go the Aero6 on a stock or X rotor route. I've had no issues with the Aero6 on my car other than the fact they could be a bit lighter (still lighter than stock) and I have to remove them to change pads.
120.46073 and 120.46081 for left and right respectively.
I'd be much more inclined to go the Aero6 on a stock or X rotor route. I've had no issues with the Aero6 on my car other than the fact they could be a bit lighter (still lighter than stock) and I have to remove them to change pads.
120.46073 and 120.46081 for left and right respectively.
Turn14 doesn't show, and Summit shows as NLA for both those centric numbers. And they're not on centrics site anymore.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
The Aero6 is nicely affordable. My car already has X front brakes. I think that could be a great upgrade. Why do you have to remove them to change pads? Does the bridge not come out?
Turn14 doesn't show, and Summit shows as NLA for both those centric numbers. And they're not on centrics site anymore.
Turn14 doesn't show, and Summit shows as NLA for both those centric numbers. And they're not on centrics site anymore.
https://centricparts.com/part-detail/12046073
The Aero6 is nicely affordable. My car already has X front brakes. I think that could be a great upgrade. Why do you have to remove them to change pads? Does the bridge not come out?
Turn14 doesn't show, and Summit shows as NLA for both those centric numbers. And they're not on centrics site anymore.
Turn14 doesn't show, and Summit shows as NLA for both those centric numbers. And they're not on centrics site anymore.
I pulled the numbers directly from the Centric catalog on their site.
Let me email my Turn14 rep and see if we can get those added. My guess is there will be a lengthy back order on them though.
For anyone off EvoM I could make a pretty good price on the Aero6's for you.
For anyone off EvoM I could make a pretty good price on the Aero6's for you.
FYI, If you wanted to use my brackets I only make the offset for the 17mm pad (5.2ci not 6.6ci) which matches the OEM thickness. Austin runs the thicker version but I chose to stick with the thinner pad cause I didnt want more clearance issues with wheels (the extra space is to the outside) and pads are slightly lighter.
I did try the SL6R also, at the end of the day the caliper isnt stiff enough. The Aero6 and XT10 combo has finally given me the braking I was hunting for. A more baller setup could certainly be better but I can now panic brake into an element being too late and things still work out. The crazy thing in my car that all the co-drivers eventually figure out, if you need more braking just push harder. Even my wife found the old brakes (SL6R and ST43s) were crap and at the Montana event the new setup just worked. Worst thing for us was the heat build from low overlap cooked the wheels and I was spraying the crap out of the inner barrel to keep them cool but by 5th runs (90sec runs hitting just under 90mph in a couple spots) with only a few min overlap things were so saturated we both slowed each day by run 5.
My bracket does a standard 8/9 rotor with the spacer on the back side and flip the spacer to the inside for the X size. I was going to do a stud but I didn't want to limit wheels with too long of a stud. Like the STU guys running 17" wheels. But if you instead sources a stud, pulling the nut to pull the rotor or pads would be more ideal.
I did try the SL6R also, at the end of the day the caliper isnt stiff enough. The Aero6 and XT10 combo has finally given me the braking I was hunting for. A more baller setup could certainly be better but I can now panic brake into an element being too late and things still work out. The crazy thing in my car that all the co-drivers eventually figure out, if you need more braking just push harder. Even my wife found the old brakes (SL6R and ST43s) were crap and at the Montana event the new setup just worked. Worst thing for us was the heat build from low overlap cooked the wheels and I was spraying the crap out of the inner barrel to keep them cool but by 5th runs (90sec runs hitting just under 90mph in a couple spots) with only a few min overlap things were so saturated we both slowed each day by run 5.
My bracket does a standard 8/9 rotor with the spacer on the back side and flip the spacer to the inside for the X size. I was going to do a stud but I didn't want to limit wheels with too long of a stud. Like the STU guys running 17" wheels. But if you instead sources a stud, pulling the nut to pull the rotor or pads would be more ideal.
FYI, If you wanted to use my brackets I only make the offset for the 17mm pad (5.2ci not 6.6ci) which matches the OEM thickness. Austin runs the thicker version but I chose to stick with the thinner pad cause I didnt want more clearance issues with wheels (the extra space is to the outside) and pads are slightly lighter.
For those wondering, Dallas' brackets are meant for use with the calipers that have a pad volume of 5.2, not 6.6 (what I bought). Though they will work with the 6.6 volume calipers, you just need to put a spacer behind the rotor, I just had some stainless shims made to get everything centered, it's around a 2mm difference so nothing crazy.
FYI, If you wanted to use my brackets I only make the offset for the 17mm pad (5.2ci not 6.6ci) which matches the OEM thickness. Austin runs the thicker version but I chose to stick with the thinner pad cause I didnt want more clearance issues with wheels (the extra space is to the outside) and pads are slightly lighter.
I did try the SL6R also, at the end of the day the caliper isnt stiff enough. The Aero6 and XT10 combo has finally given me the braking I was hunting for. A more baller setup could certainly be better but I can now panic brake into an element being too late and things still work out. The crazy thing in my car that all the co-drivers eventually figure out, if you need more braking just push harder. Even my wife found the old brakes (SL6R and ST43s) were crap and at the Montana event the new setup just worked. Worst thing for us was the heat build from low overlap cooked the wheels and I was spraying the crap out of the inner barrel to keep them cool but by 5th runs (90sec runs hitting just under 90mph in a couple spots) with only a few min overlap things were so saturated we both slowed each day by run 5.
My bracket does a standard 8/9 rotor with the spacer on the back side and flip the spacer to the inside for the X size. I was going to do a stud but I didn't want to limit wheels with too long of a stud. Like the STU guys running 17" wheels. But if you instead sources a stud, pulling the nut to pull the rotor or pads would be more ideal.
I did try the SL6R also, at the end of the day the caliper isnt stiff enough. The Aero6 and XT10 combo has finally given me the braking I was hunting for. A more baller setup could certainly be better but I can now panic brake into an element being too late and things still work out. The crazy thing in my car that all the co-drivers eventually figure out, if you need more braking just push harder. Even my wife found the old brakes (SL6R and ST43s) were crap and at the Montana event the new setup just worked. Worst thing for us was the heat build from low overlap cooked the wheels and I was spraying the crap out of the inner barrel to keep them cool but by 5th runs (90sec runs hitting just under 90mph in a couple spots) with only a few min overlap things were so saturated we both slowed each day by run 5.
My bracket does a standard 8/9 rotor with the spacer on the back side and flip the spacer to the inside for the X size. I was going to do a stud but I didn't want to limit wheels with too long of a stud. Like the STU guys running 17" wheels. But if you instead sources a stud, pulling the nut to pull the rotor or pads would be more ideal.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
+1.
The race to the bottom where no one wins 
@Dallas J I'm probably going to try this on my car. And if it works well, try it on my friends EvoX. Do you have a bracket for the X as well?
@Dallas J I'm probably going to try this on my car. And if it works well, try it on my friends EvoX. Do you have a bracket for the X as well?
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Dec 9, 2021 at 09:15 AM.
The race to the bottom where no one wins
@Dallas J I'm probably going to try this on my car. And if it works well, try it on my friends EvoX. Do you have a bracket for the X as well?
@Dallas J I'm probably going to try this on my car. And if it works well, try it on my friends EvoX. Do you have a bracket for the X as well?