It's longer, yes. But i've got used to it now.
On the circuit it's fantastic.
Going from the Brembo 4POT calipers to the ENDLESS 6POT firmed it up a lot. And I'm using ENDLESS RF650 brake fluid which is one of the best (if not the best) on the market.

Here is a scatter graph from my last track day.
X - brake pressure in PSI
Y - Long G-force

The tyre maxes out at around 1.2-1.3 G during stops, so I only need around 700-850psi to reach that.
With the factory brake booster it's extremely easy to generate 1200psi ++, so I would this much easier to control.

 

I'm not sure where my old plots are, they're in that brake post we did awhile back, but with JUST 8350's up front and DS3.12 pads, and DS1.11's in the OEM rear, I was getting 1.6g's consistently under hard braking. Kyoo you made two assumptions. One is that going with a "racing caliper" will magically increase "brake torque". All of these kits are made to NOT overwhelm the factory ABS Ecu. This is the rate of braking on ALL 4 wheels. You seemed to have dove into the calculations which is good but if you intend to street the car, you do NOT want to mess with going + 150% to the front as you will go into ice mode. You saw all of us talk about that before. Kits like this are made specifically to brake VERY HARD for very long and not turn brown and turn to dust.

The second one is choosing a street compound pad for AX duty. I would wager those 2500's are perfect in the 2-3 run day but even then, they will turn your wheels black from dusting. Mountain roads, all day long man. YOU said give you a pad for the street lol. The 8350 shape has a billion options out there, you are not limited to what essexparts.com offers. THE CATCH is that this pad shape for the Ferodo's they offer is specifically made to sweep the entire top to bottom area of the 325mm disc AP offers. THE REST of the pads such as XP8's and such all fit, but they will leave I think 7mm of the bottom rotor untouched. This is not an issue dude when you're in AX. The rotor in its most simple form is a heat sink, and you're not getting these rotors anywhere close to their limit in that environment. So switching to an appropriate AX compound with a high mu at a low temp...such as Carbotech AX, XP8's, and I'm sure the AX junkies will chime in with the winner, is ALL that is needed here. I don't want to see you throwing money away when you've used 10% of the kits real capacity.

The Alcon 343's you're referring to, I have in the rear, I had to special order discs from UK because they are discontinued.

 

What tyre and size? Any aero?
1.6G is 997/991 Porsche Cup Car level of braking. Are you sure your data was correct?
GT3 cars with 300/310mm slicks are around 1.8-2.0G under brakes. High aero.

 

Yep plots just like yours with RaceTech I believe was the system then. The Nasa rules at the time was 275/35/18 hoosier R6's. The videos from then show it too. Circa ~2007ish we noted that welding or bolting a support on the MC in the engine bay plus RF650 significantly stiffened the pedal feel. Now with Ap 9660's and A7's we brought that number up to 1.7. HOWEVER, as explained the 9660's do not create more "torque" but they simply allow more heat without the requirement of brake ducting during 45 min sprint races. Ducting on our cars is nothing more then a pain in the a**.

If I got too aggressive with the gas to brake transition you'd get that stupid ice mode so there's timing to it. I have to pull on the porsche's and brake later, harder. That millisecond when they brake at 300 and I at 250ish allows the boost to dissipate while we get on the gas sooner then them. FAE is a 3170lb with a fat driver race car so YMMV. The kit in question is no slouch, I raced on it for years before upgrading again, and sold them as nothing was worn or broken in all that time.

 

@RSMike thanks for sharing data.

What datalogging hardware/software is that chart from?

 

Emtron KV8 with Motec C125 dash.
The software from the picture is Motec i2.
I choose which parameters to push from the ECU to the dash for logging (via CAN). I only log the Motec, not the Emtron as well (ease of admin)

 

I’m looking for some help with my Evo 8, I run a mix of pulleys including OEM PS, no a/c, OEM idler, the under-drive water pump pulley and alternator tensioner from EvoSpec, as well as the STM alternator pulley and an ATI crank dampener. I cannot find any info on what length belt to run, and don’t have immediate access to my car to give it the ole string and marker trick, anyone in here with similar setups got a part number for a good belt?

 

372x34 mm front

330x28 mm rear

 

oh what? the 372s should barely clear 18s, no? It makes those wheels look like 20s

 

Depends on the wheel but yes barely. RPF1's wouldn't work.

 

referencing the pic a few posts up

 

These are custom BC forged 18x12 +38. Made sure there was plenty of clearance.