When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
In STU you can still only do 1 diff right? I would stick with front torsen because even a TRE rear diff would still be more useful. The Cusco has the benefit of coil springs (low rate, high compression) compared to the cone spring (high rate low travel) of the OEM diff and the upgrade variants. The effect here is the preload doesn't reduce with diff plate wear.
I would still stick with a 1way in the rear but don't recall if that's an option outside of the 141FG.
Correct, we're only allowed one differential.
So you're thinking either the TRE 12 plate upgrade which is still technically a 1.5 way or if Cusco offers another rear variant to the 141 FG? I'm wondering if you're thinking of the 141 F which is a 1.0/2.0 way?
With the 141 FG, running fewer of the springs, does that lower the preload?
From: Why do they always call the Evo the Dark Side?
Originally Posted by Dallas J
In STU you can still only do 1 diff right? I would stick with front torsen because even a TRE rear diff would still be more useful. The Cusco has the benefit of coil springs (low rate, high compression) compared to the cone spring (high rate low travel) of the OEM diff and the upgrade variants. The effect here is the preload doesn't reduce with diff plate wear.
For those of you like me who don't speak fluid "differential" there is a great shot here on the Cusco how-to-pick-a-diff PDF of this
Interesting comments from one of the Fiata drivers. The other Fiata owner has put his up for sale. Thoughts? Also to clarify, he's stating he thinks he'll be running the times of STR, not running with them.
I guess my first thought is, why isn't the fiata simply in STR? Same chassis yet there are some differences obviously. Makes no sense to me why it's in STU and not STR knowing the capabilities of that chassis. Time to write letters?
Yeah, I have no idea why the Fiat is in STU when it's the same car as the ND
For sure, shots like this are way better than the side panning. I'll take either but the former just looks more interesting with the car all cambered over.
Nothing is going to tuck a 18x10.5 out back. If you are running on the 10.5's out back, you have to be at a 4x4 ride height. I previously ran the ever popular 18x10.5 NT03+M wheels / 285mm tires when I was in ASP for a short time. The amount of rolling/pulling to get these to work isn't for the faint of heart. (This is all assuming STU rules - IE No SSB rear trailing arms to where you could run the 18x10.5 PF01 wheels which would tuck things nicely)
Suraj, we need pics and we need them now!
I ran the 10.5 nt03 stock rear fenders and got them to tuck. You’re correct the amount of pulling isn’t for the faint or heart though
From: Why do they always call the Evo the Dark Side?
Originally Posted by Dallas J
For sure, shots like this are way better than the side panning. I'll take either but the former just looks more interesting with the car all cambered over.
It is really cool how the rubber-line on the outside of the corner is wider than the rubber-line on the inside of the corner.
... Which brings me to my next question: Since the diameter difference of the 295/265 is like 3 tenths of an inch (25.1" vs 25.4" respectively), what is the factory allowance in regards to tire diameter differences front to rear? I've searched and searched, but couldn't find anything. The 265 is a half inch wider than the 255. I don't think it'd hurt to have a tad more rear grip, but I'm unsure if that center diff would be loving life with that much of a difference in tire diameter? This car wouldn't be driven on the street with said setup. When I've been driving it this year to Lincoln and back, I run on my square rain tire setup.
Factory service manual says no more than 2/32nds tread difference front to rear for same size tires, which would mean 4/32nd aka 1/8th aka 0.125" diameter difference if you don't want to see significant wear on your center diff.
Isn't the TRE diff the same as the stock 1 way diff just with more plates for better locking under accel?
Factory service manual says no more than 2/32nds tread difference front to rear for same size tires, which would mean 4/32nd aka 1/8th aka 0.125" diameter difference if you don't want to see significant wear on your center diff.
Isn't the TRE diff the same as the stock 1 way diff just with more plates for better locking under accel?
Thanks for posting up that service manual information! I've searched and searched and couldn't find anything definitive. The million dollar question is, how much extra wear would that difference put on the center diff, if you are only driving it 60 seconds at a time?! I really had the temptation of trying a 295/11" A052 front and 285/10" rear (either the CR-1 or RT660) but it also had a 1/3" difference front to rear. I'm unsure I'm willing to really take that sort of risk, even if it's just autocrossed on that setup.
I will be trying new things for next year in regards to trying a square tire setup. Unfortunately it sucks that the A052 doesn't come in a 285/30/18...I've chatted with a few people who've used the A052 and CR-1 and I hear conflicting answers. Who knows, maybe Yokohama will come out with a 285/30/18 or even would be thrilled if the Kumho V730 came in that size. Testing to come next spring, until then, the evo is in hibernation mode and on lowering springs until I decide what the JRZ replacements will be!
Correct. However, I believe the stock evo 8/9 rear diff is 1.5 way though?
Or a 3rd set of 18x12s to run 315s (other 2 have hoho's on them).
Gonna use the 18x10.5s for the Tesla with a taller 295 I think.
I completely forgot they A052 came in a 315! Go big or go home.
I'm now waiting on the 285/30/18 Nankang CR-1's to come in. These things run WIDE. Same tread width compared to the 295/30/18 A052, but just over a half an inch narrower in section width. The CR-1 tires are about a 1/2" wider in tread width than the RT660.... Yes there will be pictures hopefully next week.
Thought process is to try the 3 following setups for next year. This season in Lincoln, they've held at least 5 Test N Tunes, which is quite nice, no lie! Normally we get two - 1.5 hour heats during these days...
Front: 18x11 285 CR1/S (name change from CR-1 to CR-S for 2022 - same compound)
Rear: 18x10 285 CR1/S IF IT FITS - I saw a picture of these tires mounted on a 10 and it didn't look nearly as bad when I mounted a 295 A052 on a 10" That was bad.
Front: 18x11 285 CR1/S
Rear: 18x10 285 RT660
Front: 18x11 285 RT660
Rear: 18x10 285 RT660
Once those three setups are tested and the best option is determined, then I'd like to compare the A052 in a square 265mm 18x10 setup to see how things feel. Probably would be an optimal setup in cool/cold conditions anyway. I suppose a 255 would be even better in cool/cold/wet situations. I still have 4 of those laying around.
I now also have (4) 18x11s and (4) 18x10s so it should make back to back testing a real thing!
Crazy how much wider the RT660 looks due to it's wider section width - about a 1/2". The CR-1 supposedly is wider by a 1/2" in in the tread width department. More pictures to come tomorrow once mounted. 285 vs 285 vs 295 A052
If you are running on the 10.5's out back, you have to be at a 4x4 ride height. I previously ran the ever popular 18x10.5 NT03+M wheels / 285mm tires when I was in ASP for a short time. The amount of rolling/pulling to get these to work isn't for the faint of heart. (This is all assuming STU rules - IE No SSB rear trailing arms to where you could run the 18x10.5 PF01 wheels which would tuck things nicely)
