What’s been changed since last run:
* new TRE trans (straight cut 4th)
* new Exedy clutch
* new hob switch
* new battery circuit breaker switch installed

Only doing break in miles for 300 miles, car runs fine at normal driving. Just now getting into boost, the car falls on its face when on full
boost. At 5250 RPM, notice the ignition timing and knock voltage jump along with injector duty cycle and injector pulse width going to zero.

Completely shuts down.....recovers when resume normal driving.

* NOW sending injectors to be serviced. Never done this before. On e85. Car has had long stents in garage between upgrades. (2017 installed)

* replaced spark plugs. Gapped to .026. Problem still exists.

Prior to this issue, everything was fine. Somewhere between clutch/trans install, this gremlin popped up.

 

Looks like load/boost based fuel cut. The TRE stuff should really see 800-1000 miles before getting into boost..

Also, 8* at 4200 with 17psi and 10* at 5200 with 24psi is WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYY too much timing.

 

I typically see 6* at 7k on high octane lol.

 

12.7 AFR is a bit lean too for motorsports use

 

Thank you. Will start with those recommendations. Appreciate the feedback.

 

Damn I'm running 12* on e85
I remember reading that too low of timing in some cases can result in excessive egt?

 

It can, I was amazed how adding 1 degree made like 15-20whp and brought temps down.

 

remember hes on E85 which will have different timing characteristics to normal fuel

 

OP's logs are not ok, even for ethanol. Too much timing, and it's lean.

12* at 7k is fine on E85.

 

12* at 7k is fine on 93 too, depending on boost and build. Before I started tuning my own car, I had 15+ degrees up top and nothing broke. At one point I had even more. 8* in mid range peak torque is no bueno though, although that’s exactly what Dynoflash gave everyone on canned reflashes when these cars were new.

 

Still working through it. Fuel injectors came back good.

Stage V head on my race engine build too. Not sure what all effects the logs. My AFR gauge doesn’t show any issues with being lean???

 

You guys ever replace the permanent fuel filter in the evo pump housing? I know we can change the inlet filter bag. Curious if anyone has had to replace the whole unit with permanent filter?

 

^vital clue you just provided. I think the answer is that your “AFR” column in EvoScan is showing your fuel *map* rather than your actual wideband readings. You can log both/either in EvoScan. The fuel map doesn’t matter. You need to log the wideband (WDB).

Everyone with a double pumper or an aftermarket hat is (or should be) running an inline filter. Check out Radium Engineering’s setup, for example.

 

Still no bueno:

Recap: 3/10/21

Before trans and clutch, the car ran great. While trans and clutch out, these additions were done:
* new battery switch installed
* New English Racing AYC flash

After installing new trans and new Exedy clutch, the car has not ran right? Is there anything we may have missed? I appreciate the comments above. Please see progress update below.
* New battery installed
* New HOB switch installed
* Injectors professionally cleaned and tested
* Both external fuel pumps professionally cleaned and tested
* Internal fuel pump replaced with new pump
* Internal OEM fuel assembly replaced
* Inline fuel filter (after surge tank) and intake filter sock replaced
* Adjusted Fuel pressure regulator....it was low
* Adjusted HOB switch to come on a little sooner
* Added new battery quick connect/disconnect switch

We confirmed voltage when car was idling. We tested all the fuses. Checked ground points.

Car can and will accelerate fine when gently getting up in rpm and into boost. At the top, things seem fine. It’s only down low, when quickly accelerating, it shuts off. Right when the HOB switch comes on, it shuts off? Putting it in 5th gear at 70mph, floor it, it starts to accelerate, but shuts off right when boost starts. Any sudden stab of throttle, just as it begins to get into boost, the fuel cut happens. Goes straight to nothing. Open to more ideas.......

Thank goodness I have AP Racing two hours away in Tulsa. Been a long time since my team hasn’t been able to fix a problem.

 

I had a similar experience when my starter shorted against my turbo outlet. I tried installing my OEM evo 8 outlet on a turbo that really needed a IX outlet. There was clearance with the motor static but under sharp acceleration it would make contact and everything would die for a second.

You would have had to remove the starter for the clutch job, so maybe check that out and see if it might be having some kind of shorting issue.