Ok, take it to someone that actually tunes for a living, and not as a hobby? That would be my remedy.

 

I don't care if it is his hobby, a little fun for him, or whatever, he knows his cars and is a really nice guy. Jason and JS will always have my business. Theres no need to be a d*ck about someone new starting up a shop, we need one here in the area with a dyno, and hopefully he really starts to thrive and do well. How do you think all the other major shops and tuners started off? They bought a space, bought a dyno, and started tuning cars. Just because he is new doesn't mean he isn't skilled. Get your negativity off of the board, and out of this thread.

 

haha wow really?

i edited my post, not worth the bother

 

Hopefully I'm not misreading his post. As you stated, you have a nice curve except at that particular point. You both are stumped as to the cause/remedy, so the best thing to do is take it to someone with more experience. Get the solution and absorb the knowledge gained. Again, hopefully I'm not misreading his post.

As a side note, for those that have been dynoed at Buschurs, how does J&S Dyno readings compare? Higher, Lower or about the same?

 

^ my car made 566 @ 34 psi at BR

on jason's mustang i made 540 something at 32psi (fuct up boost controller). they are about the same bro

 

Good to hear. Since I'm considering the Green, I'm trying to do a somewhat apples to apples comparison in terms of dyno charts.

Hey buchnerj, I see you have an MR, are you still running the 6speed with those #s or did you already swap it for a 5spd? Speaking of the 6spd, does anyone beef up the existing 6spd to handle the higher torque/hp or is the 5spd the only route to go?

 

still on the stock 6, shifting just fine. no grinding or problems whatsoever.

I didn't mean to come on too strong or offensive, it might have sounded that way and I apologize. Jason knew right away what it was and we were going to work on it, but just didn't have enough time I had to split. I was asking because he has been teaching me about the whole tuning process and I have been looking over his shoulder and wanted to do some research into the reason and how to fix it. That is why I asked for a remedy, reconfiguring the MIVEC settings is tricky and I was interested how to change it. I got upset because some people get down on those who are starting off, and don't give anyone a chance to prove themselves. He knows his stuff.

 

metal, If the tranny were ever to sh*t the bed I think I would just rebuild it instead of doing the 5 swap. Personally I like having to throw through all the gears, and my car is not really for the drag or autox. I guess its just a preference, and I would be very interested to see how the beefed up 6 speeds handle under high hp/tq situations. My .02.

 

Glad to hear the 6spd is holding up. Having a 6spd myself, I'm in complete agreement that going through 6 gears is more fun than 5. My 09 Corolla is a 5spd and I always feel like it's missing an extra gear.

 

yep, i did an auto to manual swap in my 98 prelude, 5 speed is so weird to me. I have almost shifted down into reverse a couple times thinking I am pulling into 6th ... should have done it and did that thing a favor. It has had a tough life...

 

Remedy - tune it? If it has to do with mivec why didn't he tune the mivec map while it was one the dyno (best place to tune mivec) - doesn't make much sense to me......its not tricky at all there is a map in the rom, start adjusting it in the area of issue and tune the dip out.

Also why a dual stage ebc? you have map switching which provides boost per map as well not to mention that its GEAR based boost control and you can have high boost on your e85 maps and low on the pump gas. Its easier to tune than an ebc, WAY cheaper, and proven to work better - confused on the selection when you have a great ecu to control it?

 

I switched to 2 MT90 and one Redline heavy shockproof in the tranny recently. It's the best mix I have used in this evo. Thanks to Travis for the recommendation.

Anyone have a decent stereo setup using just the stock speaker locations? I'd like to improve what Jackie Chan put in there.

 

Yeah, the first mod i did to my car was sink some good money into the speaker system. I have a panasonic touch screen running it all, with two amps under each seat, one 800 watt for a 10 inch alpine rd in the trunk and one 1200 watt to push the four alpine speakers two in door and two on rear seat mounts. The two in the door have the crossover for the tweeters and just the low end in the doors, the two in the back have the built in tweeters and speaker. Sounds great, I like the low being reasonable, and not going to explode your head. I have pictures around here somewhere of when I did the install, I can send them out if youd like.

 

It was my mistake in the first post, he knew what to do, and he was going to tune it out but I ran out of time had had to go home. I was asking the question as to see if there was any way I could fix it on the street with my laptop and tatrix cable. I am new to tuning so I was looking for suggestions and maybe a little explanation on how to. I think i get the gist of it now though...

I guess I really didn't think of using the ECU over the EBC. I have been looking around for a good gauge setup to display boost and other things, and I thought that the EBC would kill two birds with one stone. At a push of a button I can switch boosts between E85 and 93, it will display the boost for me whenever I need to take some logs at different levels (I still only have the stock gauge that goes up to 1.5 bar). I guess your right though, just stick with the ECU control and get a gauge to display.

 

they are like a goofy 6.75 speaker. If you use 6.5 you must the plates that allow it to extend to the holes (found on ebay for $10.00 for a pair)

I prefer either pioneer or infinity kappa 652.9i they can be had for $75 shipped on places like ebay or other cheap stereo shops online.