Philadelphia Car Meets
actually my car is in a garage in boston for the summer. but im getting itchy here without it (im in maine) i may have to bring it out. problem is i have to bring my own gas as maine doesnt do 93oct
hope all is well in the illadelph
hope all is well in the illadelph
Evolving Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: Philly
Good to see you back on here.
And we can't all have the same looking car....
Something has to be different! I do like your wheels too. They were my 2nd choice if the RZ's didn't exist. 
Your code is still puzzling me. You still have the stock downpipe too, and it's still throwing codes. That is very strange....I will keep asking around.
And we can't all have the same looking car....
Something has to be different! I do like your wheels too. They were my 2nd choice if the RZ's didn't exist. Your code is still puzzling me. You still have the stock downpipe too, and it's still throwing codes. That is very strange....I will keep asking around.
The code is P0137 its the precat and it says low voltage. This is NOT a grounding issue. An o2 sensor works by measuring the oxygen difference between the exhaust gases and the outside ambient oxygen. Countrary to belief, its not based on temperature. The o2 sensor needs the heat however so that it can measure the air/fuel ratio under certain conditions, if the temp is not above 600 farenheit it basically is not takin into consideration into the ECU. This is a form of open loop control (systems engineering term). When above 600 F, the reading is taken into the ECU (closed loop control)
So today after doing research i found out that low voltage on a sensor, basically means the mixture precat is too lean. It needs more oxygen into the sensor readings. By moving the sensor away from the exhaust flow I could allow for more oxygen flow into the sensor (theres a small vent where the three wires come from that allows this). Which basically would give me a less oxygen difference and think my mixture is richer then it is. I did this using the spark plug non-fouler technique you read all over the forum. Sadly, this did not do the trick.
Im thinking that the system is too lean or too aggressive for the ECU and that I should talk to Ivey and see if others have had this problem. Im running 25 psi so maybe lowering that or altering the map should do the trick. I dont know much about tuning so Ill leave that up to Ivey or maybe an anonymous tuner to decide lol. Needless to say im exhausted. This weekend I think im going to swap o2 sensors to make sure the one isnt faulty. Im really thinking it isnt because both were already replaced in less then 10000 miles.
Gah...still need to get this inspection/emissions first and then fix this ****in code grrrrr
More fuel in exhaust= lesser oxygen..
Not sure about the root of your problem but sometimes the anti-foulers do not always work depending on which one you use.. for instance if I drive my car very hard I will get a code for cat efficiency every once in awhile..
I am guessing the low voltage has to do with a heater issue or mabye a wire is chewed up somewhere..
Not sure about the root of your problem but sometimes the anti-foulers do not always work depending on which one you use.. for instance if I drive my car very hard I will get a code for cat efficiency every once in awhile..
I am guessing the low voltage has to do with a heater issue or mabye a wire is chewed up somewhere..
Dude i just had such a ****ty night, having up to here with the code, i finally worked the energy to try and get rid of the code. And i actually have always had the UR downpipe (stock o2 housing tho)
The code is P0137 its the precat and it says low voltage. This is NOT a grounding issue. An o2 sensor works by measuring the oxygen difference between the exhaust gases and the outside ambient oxygen. Countrary to belief, its not based on temperature. The o2 sensor needs the heat however so that it can measure the air/fuel ratio under certain conditions, if the temp is not above 600 farenheit it basically is not takin into consideration into the ECU. This is a form of open loop control (systems engineering term). When above 600 F, the reading is taken into the ECU (closed loop control)
So today after doing research i found out that low voltage on a sensor, basically means the mixture precat is too lean. It needs more oxygen into the sensor readings. By moving the sensor away from the exhaust flow I could allow for more oxygen flow into the sensor (theres a small vent where the three wires come from that allows this). Which basically would give me a less oxygen difference and think my mixture is richer then it is. I did this using the spark plug non-fouler technique you read all over the forum. Sadly, this did not do the trick.
Im thinking that the system is too lean or too aggressive for the ECU and that I should talk to Ivey and see if others have had this problem. Im running 25 psi so maybe lowering that or altering the map should do the trick. I dont know much about tuning so Ill leave that up to Ivey or maybe an anonymous tuner to decide lol. Needless to say im exhausted. This weekend I think im going to swap o2 sensors to make sure the one isnt faulty. Im really thinking it isnt because both were already replaced in less then 10000 miles.
Gah...still need to get this inspection/emissions first and then fix this ****in code grrrrr
The code is P0137 its the precat and it says low voltage. This is NOT a grounding issue. An o2 sensor works by measuring the oxygen difference between the exhaust gases and the outside ambient oxygen. Countrary to belief, its not based on temperature. The o2 sensor needs the heat however so that it can measure the air/fuel ratio under certain conditions, if the temp is not above 600 farenheit it basically is not takin into consideration into the ECU. This is a form of open loop control (systems engineering term). When above 600 F, the reading is taken into the ECU (closed loop control)
So today after doing research i found out that low voltage on a sensor, basically means the mixture precat is too lean. It needs more oxygen into the sensor readings. By moving the sensor away from the exhaust flow I could allow for more oxygen flow into the sensor (theres a small vent where the three wires come from that allows this). Which basically would give me a less oxygen difference and think my mixture is richer then it is. I did this using the spark plug non-fouler technique you read all over the forum. Sadly, this did not do the trick.
Im thinking that the system is too lean or too aggressive for the ECU and that I should talk to Ivey and see if others have had this problem. Im running 25 psi so maybe lowering that or altering the map should do the trick. I dont know much about tuning so Ill leave that up to Ivey or maybe an anonymous tuner to decide lol. Needless to say im exhausted. This weekend I think im going to swap o2 sensors to make sure the one isnt faulty. Im really thinking it isnt because both were already replaced in less then 10000 miles.
Gah...still need to get this inspection/emissions first and then fix this ****in code grrrrr
Also, if someone disables my EGR system via evoscan to make the CEL go away (p0446 Evaporative emission system vent control circuit), can I pass inspection? Would a shop be able to tell it was disabled?
A far as I know, with exemption, they just give you the sticker without plugging in the OBD readers. I would assume that if they glanced at the dash and see no CEL, you should pass with no problems.
Exemption laws are funny in that is has to be almost a year to the day in order to qualify or there has to be no real way that you will go over in the 5000 mile mark within the year. For instance, if you cars sticker reads 3/10 and you bring it in on Feb 20th and have driven 4975 miles they most likely will not give it to you. Now all shops vary but this is the way its been explained to me by more than one person.
Regarding the light on, I'm not sure. I would think they would still sticker it provided your def under the 5K mark. Best thing to do IMO is to just get it fixed, whatever it is. That way you don't have to worry about anything.
On a side note, there is only 75 people signed up for Sunday. Only 3 in BSP, me and 1 STi (2 drivers). Please don't make me carry the banner myself. Chu, your novice class has a good amount of entree's (14). Much more than almost any other class.
Exemption laws are funny in that is has to be almost a year to the day in order to qualify or there has to be no real way that you will go over in the 5000 mile mark within the year. For instance, if you cars sticker reads 3/10 and you bring it in on Feb 20th and have driven 4975 miles they most likely will not give it to you. Now all shops vary but this is the way its been explained to me by more than one person.
Regarding the light on, I'm not sure. I would think they would still sticker it provided your def under the 5K mark. Best thing to do IMO is to just get it fixed, whatever it is. That way you don't have to worry about anything.
On a side note, there is only 75 people signed up for Sunday. Only 3 in BSP, me and 1 STi (2 drivers). Please don't make me carry the banner myself. Chu, your novice class has a good amount of entree's (14). Much more than almost any other class.
Regarding the light on, I'm not sure. I would think they would still sticker it provided your def under the 5K mark. Best thing to do IMO is to just get it fixed, whatever it is. That way you don't have to worry about anything.
On a side note, there is only 75 people signed up for Sunday. Only 3 in BSP, me and 1 STi (2 drivers). Please don't make me carry the banner myself. Chu, your novice class has a good amount of entree's (14). Much more than almost any other class.
I was going over classing rules last night, and still think I'm in the wrong class, although more correct than AS. STU, BSP, and SM are so close in mod levels, and open to interpretation. I believe my correct class should be STU, but I'm signed up for BSP, so we will run together I think. I will talk to Adam this weekend. BTW, I'm going to try and pick up magnetic numbers, so no more taping! 
Saw that last night. Just last week, there were only a handful of people signed up. I think many ppl wait until the last minute, or even try to sign up the day of the event. Less ppl means more runs, so I hope it stays at 75... I was going over classing rules last night, and still think I'm in the wrong class, although more correct than AS. STU, BSP, and SM are so close in mod levels, and open to interpretation. I believe my correct class should be STU, but I'm signed up for BSP, so we will run together I think. I will talk to Adam this weekend. BTW, I'm going to try and pick up magnetic numbers, so no more taping!
I was going over classing rules last night, and still think I'm in the wrong class, although more correct than AS. STU, BSP, and SM are so close in mod levels, and open to interpretation. I believe my correct class should be STU, but I'm signed up for BSP, so we will run together I think. I will talk to Adam this weekend. BTW, I'm going to try and pick up magnetic numbers, so no more taping! Like you Chu, I use a three numeric number and its a pita. See what you can find for prices, I may be interested in set for myself.
That would be great if not many people signed up, I would love to get 5 runs in.
Evolving Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 344
Likes: 0
From: SE-PA
I might try to run down. I have a big job deadline on Monday so who knows. The weather for the past two months has screwed my schedule up so bad. Nobody wants a muddy job, now its been nice for 2 days and everybody want there job done right now.
I want to race sofa king bad. So do my new tires, alingment, springs, struts, helmet.......
Oh and I replaced my diaphram (pressure) tank in the house on Monday and now my waterline is leaking under my driveway
