evol911

iTrader: (1)

So I hit a raccoon two and half weeks ago on my way down to Portland. I was southbound on I-5 in the right lane cruising about 75 when it darted out form the median. I swerved to the left lane and it stopped for some reason so I nailed it with the right side of the bumper. It ripped my lip off, cracked the whole side of the bumper, ripped the right fender liner out, ripped the bumper mounting tab out of fender, tore the fender, caved in the side of the oil cooler, split the silicone connector between the licp and the intercooler, and shoved the licp into the j-pipe which in turn bent the flange of the j-pipe. Oh and it sent the right side of the car up about a foot and I pooped my pants. I pulled off the highway into Centralia which definetely has no auto parts stores open when the should be. I was able to find a Walmart at 10;30pm on a Sunday night, buy some tools and remove the bumper in the parking lot to rig the spilt silicone connector to hold. And continued to Portland.
^Background/lead to my question:

So after getting the car back from the body shop (sidenote: which did a poor job fixing it and now the car has to go back), I notice the small leak at the j-pipe and fixed it rather easily. But I also notice that the OEM lines between the wastegate/j-pipe/boost solenoid are some hacked together crap that have no boost pills or no hose clamps for that matter. So I ordered a new OEM hose assembly. I'm not too sure what has been done previous to me owning my car tuning wise. And I have no boost gauge. It did come with a cat-back and a larger intercooler(no idea on brand). I also replaced the dented Injen pipe kit with a new Injen kit since I figured if it was tuned with it before might as well replace it with the same stuff.

Skip to here if ya don't want to read

If I were to hook up the OEM hose assembly and the car has been tuned to control boost using the ECU and the 3 bar map sensor, can I expect some problems??

dbsears

iTrader: (37)

YES! Different boost pills and the WGDC settings in ecuflash can and will make your boost spike, erratic, not hold, etc.

Compare the lines to see what were in them. There are two pills stock to regulate boost. Some take out one pill to modify boost. Most usually stick a pill with a smaller orifice and modify the WGDC and some other tables to raise the boost. I have had this setup and it works well when tuned correctly.

It would be a good idea to have a boost gauge too see what you are running as well. If you indeed have a 3bar map you can log that in evoscan if you have a tactrix cable.

evol911

iTrader: (1)

Thanks dbsears for the quick response.

After checking the MAP sensor, its the stock 1bar (MD305600). So no ECU boost control. Most likely it had a MBC before. The wastegate/solenoid vacuum lines on it now are generics from an auto parts store. No boost pills whatsoever. The Tee looks like its more suited for a garden drip system than a car.

Wouldn't that be a nice little surprise, running wastegate pressure this whole time...

dbsears

iTrader: (37)

Wow which is probably what you were running was wastegate. Very nice of the previous owner. Definately put the stock lines back on. 20psi instead of 11 will feel quite a bit different...

xceler8rob

iTrader: (41)

1) get a boost gauge that is good
2) stay off it until you know what's going on and how much boost/tune you have
3) go manuel bc and have the car setup and tuned by english with supporting mods ex walbro
4) setup gm 3port with ecu controlled boost with omni 4bar map have english set it up
5) get a wideband afr gauge

stay off of it so you don't destroy your car until you know what's been done and wat its tuned for!

not neessarily in that order above, but to consider for sure-

rob